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Old 06-22-2018, 05:36 PM   #101
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Just checking in. I recommend taking grinding fiberglass and building fender flares off your "to do" list when it is 110 degrees outside. I have the bucks about finished - now time to pull molds and build the real pieces. I'm trying to get the car ready for our fall season in September - should make it. In the mean time, I finally got a couple of really nice custom built pieces for my other big block chevy-powered track car - Hogan intake and Dailey Dry Sump. Motor should be ready for the dyno in a month or so. Nothing moves fast around here. LOL

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Old 06-24-2018, 05:38 PM   #102
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Flare Progress

Here are a few status photos of the fender flare project. The forth flare (left rear) buck is still on the car. When the bucks are finish sanded and painted, I will pull permanent molds off of them and then pull the finished products from the molds. There will still be work to do to build the mounting flanges, separate the extensions that run down the front bumper from the fender portion of the flare, and build in the rear door openings. When that is done I will cut the metal that is keeping the wider tires from full compression travel and attach the finished (painted) flares. Still a good bit of work to do - its a slow, time intensive process.

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Old 07-04-2018, 04:17 PM   #103
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How much fender do you think you will need to remove? I can't imagine it has much travel. Have you lost any ride height? This is looking great!
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:44 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waderade812 View Post
How much fender do you think you will need to remove? I can't imagine it has much travel. Have you lost any ride height? This is looking great!
Thanks! I am starting with 2 inches of metal removed, then I will remove the springs and run the wheels to full compression and check for at least one inch of clearance between the fender and tire (lock-to-lock). The hard part is the back edge of the rear door jam which will require some metal body work. In the end I will roll the edges of the cut-out portions of the fenders and reattach the inner fender liners. The ride height is adjustable (coil-overs) and the limiting factor for compression is bottoming the front shocks. I would like to go 1 inch lower, but I would have to cut out the tops of the shock towers and move the mounting points up - a lot of work.

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