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Old 10-10-2019, 05:31 PM   #1
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Awd Mk3 Focus SE

I currently own a 2014 ford focus se with the DCT while looking at the MTX-75 swap i discovered that the 2002 Jaguar X-type has an awd 5 speed transmission based on the ford mmondeo alled the MTX-75-X. Is it possible to do a manual swap to the MTX-75-X and use the focus rs rear subframe with the focus rs gas tank and a custom drive shaft connecting the MTX-75-X to the rear differential of a 2002 Jaguar X-type?


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Old 10-10-2019, 05:34 PM   #2
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There are a couple questions I was unable to find on other forums:

Will the 2002 Jaguar X-type rear differential fit inside of the focus RS rear subframe?

Is there more to swapping in an MTX-75-X than the MTX-75?

Are all of the mounting positions for the Focus RS gas tank, and rear subframe the same on the focus SE?

Should I be worried about clearance issues if this swap is possible?
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Old 10-10-2019, 05:44 PM   #3
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Parts would have to be from a 2002-2005 Jaguar X-type V6 5sp manual transmission.

The subframe and gas tank I am assuming would be closest coming from a 2016 Ford focus RS.

From here cost would like be over $5,000 for parts without labor.

With all these pieces being replaced should I swap in a performance fuel pump, and how would I recalibrate the gas tank sensor for the different gas tank size?

Would it be preferred to have the MTX-75-X rebuilt and/or change gearing ratios?

Also will MTX-75 parts fit for rebuilding an MTX-75-X?
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:58 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Foc1_ View Post
There are a couple questions I was unable to find on other forums:

Will the 2002 Jaguar X-type rear differential fit inside of the focus RS rear subframe?

Is there more to swapping in an MTX-75-X than the MTX-75?

Are all of the mounting positions for the Focus RS gas tank, and rear subframe the same on the focus SE?

Should I be worried about clearance issues if this swap is possible?
Wouldnt you rather use the focus rs differential instead of the jags?
If you are getting the rs rear assembly for this i would stick to what already fits to limit extra steps to making this possible.
I dont know what the mtx75x looks like but i would imagine the part for the rear driveshaft will encounter clearance issues with the floorpan of the focus.
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Old 10-11-2019, 10:49 AM   #5
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I would like to use the RS rear differential if possible. However, the complexity of trying to get the MTx-75-X to work with the focus rs rear differential isn't something that I considered. Especially trying to get Twin electronically controlled clutch packs and wiring to work with the extra sensors on an engine with that much power difference between the two cars.
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Old 10-11-2019, 11:14 AM   #6
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Also they both seem to have a similar rear track width of 60.4", as well as both having rear independent suspension. I was not able to find any dimensions on the rear subframes or even the dimensions of the rear differentials of with vehicle. However, I believe rebel devil customs has a lift kit for the focus which might be necessary for some clearance.
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:40 AM   #7
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It looks like the focus rs uses the same chassis as the focus SE so the RS rear subframe may mount up which would allow me to use a set of focus rs suspension front and rear along with other mods to strengthen the body of the focus.
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Old 10-15-2019, 03:14 PM   #8
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Would the gear ratios for the focus vs the jaguar x-type adjust the drivability of the focus significantly.

06 Focus ZX3:
1st 3.42
2nd 2.14
3rd 1.45
4th 1.03
5th 0.77
R 3.73

14 Focus SE:
1st 3.67
2nd 2.14
3rd 1.45
4th 1.03
5th 0.80
R 3.72

04 Jaguar X-type 2.5L:
1st 3.42
2nd 2.14
3rd 1.45
4th 1.03
5th 0.77
R 3.46

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Old 10-15-2019, 03:57 PM   #9
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AWD systems needed

pre-2004 X-type 2.5L MTX-75-X Transmission.
Complete RS rear subframe (might need axels)
Jaguar X-type Rear Diff + axels (might need adjustment)
Complete RS fuel tank (potentially LPFP & Driver side Sender) & heat shields.
Modified Jaguar x-type rear driveshaft (shortened)
Aftermarket exhaust.
Aftermarket Emergency Brake cable.

Last edited by _Foc1_; 10-17-2019 at 01:43 AM.
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Old 10-15-2019, 05:00 PM   #10
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Copied this over from "Mk3 Manual Transmission Swap" thread

"Hello---I have gotten my swap done and with a lot of help from Tom Lesperen @ Focus Power, I have sorted out the electrical issues that I had and the "Hangar Queen" is running really nicely now. Sorry, I didn't take any photos of my swap since it took me most of the winter to get it done, but I will write up my experience now. I live in rural southwest Nebraska so I was really alone on this project except for the internet and this forum. I did a lot of research before attempting this and the original post on this thread showed me it could be done. I'm retired from the car business but my last line mechanicing was done in the 80's on VW's. I was mostly a parts guy.

List of the required:
MTX-75 (got mine out of a 2012 that had the mounts and slave clyinder with it)
Manual Trans Axles (got right and left used from same 2012 and got a new retaining clip for the left side)
Right Axle Support (new)
Dual Mass Flywheel (new-mine was early vin# so much more expensive)
Flywheel Bolts (6) (new and expensive, but you have to have them)
Pressure Plate and Disc (new)
Pressure Plate Bolts (new)
Shifter Assembly (need both upper and lower sections I got mine off of ebay and it didn't have the lower bracket but came with knob and boot)
Shift Cables (I got new. Be sure to get the little clip that holds thems together)
Pedal Assemblies (used off of ebay mine are st try to get the switches on both the clutch and brake pedals. If the clutch pedal does not come with the master clyinder Ford only sells a new one with a pedal. No problem. I researched and found and used one that fits a 2004 Mazda 3. Goes right in and has the correct hose connections. You'll need the bushing/pin for the brake pedal)
Manual Transmission Brake Fluid Reservior (new--need to have the extra little tube to feed the clutch master clyinder)
Clutch Hoses (new--It takes 3 and they are all push one connections which is nice)
Console Pins (new--the ones with the big heads on the front sides of the console. I can't see how to get them off without breaking them)
If you don't have one you will need a programming tool (I bought a SCT Tuner from Tom @ Focus Power) or access to one. I could never have done this without the tool and his help.
I'm sure I've left a few items out.

Labor
I used a Haynes Manual and a lot of internet searching. Removal is fairly straight forward. I don't have a tranny jack, so I made a wooden platform and mounted it on my standard floorjack. It worked well for both transmissions. Pedals are tough, at least for me, because the area is pretty tight, and I don't bend like I used to, but all of the studs and holes are there. Shift cables mounting under the console is very very tight. I did take the seats out and that really helped. Everything else is mostly swapping automatic stuff for manual stuff.

Electrical Mods
The only hardware mod I made was to wire up the clutch pedal position switch to provide a ground for wire #13 at the PCM so that the starter will engage only when the pedal is fully depressed. I didn't have to use the switch and could have just grounded the wire, but I chose to have the safety feature. This is where I made a mistake that caused me a lot of flustration. When I did the wire mod I removed the PCM and set it aside to locate the correct wire on the PCM connector. After doing the mod I failed to fully seat one of the two connectors on the PCM leading to the dreaded intermittent electrical fault. I didn't find this until after I started working with Tom and i could have saved us both a lot of grief by being sure of my work.

Intial Startup
Without having that connector fully seated, it would crank but no start. Finally when it did catch it was running very badly. Not what everyone else had experienced.

Tuning
The first tunes that we applied where not working right because of the connector problem. It would take the tunes, but of course they wouldn't work correctly. Once the problem was solved, the car started with the original stock tune. Nice idle and smooth. Would only rev to 3500, but I guess that is the same as Shade-010. Put in the last tune that Tom gave me and it is really nice now. Smooth and runs as it should. Without his help I would be dead.

Leftovers
There are a few items that are hanging around, but are not a worry to me.
The abs light is on, but i don't like abs anyway.
Gives a hill assist not available warning, but not too many hills here in our part of NE.
Little info light stays on, but I don't need to look at it.

I'm really glad that I took the plunge and did this. The dealer could not fix my DCT to my satisfaction. It was worse shortly after they did they seals and clutch cleaning. No shudder now and I can live with a few less MPG. Glad I remembered how to row my own oars after a lot of years with automatics. My cost was about $2,500 including the tune and the labor was really cheap. Hope this might help someone looking to do this---John M."
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