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Old 08-08-2019, 08:08 PM   #1
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Keep or sell Focus SE with DCT

I have a 2012 Focus SE sedan that's been garage kept and is like new except for dry rotted tires. It only has 12k miles and has never been a short trip car. I drive another car but will need to replace it soon. Should I sell the Focus for whatever I can get and move on, take my chances on the DCT, or do a manual swap? I drive about 40k miles a year and reliability matters. None of the options are great. I so wish I would have bought something else.


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Old 08-09-2019, 06:46 AM   #2
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I have a 2012 Focus SE sedan that's been garage kept and is like new except for dry rotted tires. It only has 12k miles and has never been a short trip car. I drive another car but will need to replace it soon. Should I sell the Focus for whatever I can get and move on, take my chances on the DCT, or do a manual swap? I drive about 40k miles a year and reliability matters. None of the options are great. I so wish I would have bought something else.
Do you have transmission shudder at the moment? It's really a roll of the dice when you factor in how much stop-and-go traffic do you encounter usually.

My $0.02 - Given how the Focus depreciates due to the DCT, selling it may only net you up to $5k? I would always champion selling the Focus and use the $5k as payment for something else? I understand everyone has a different financial burden but selling it a few years later and it may not be even worth scrap metal.

My 2010 Focus S is worth maybe $1500 - 2000 at the moment. Granted it's a stick and a base model but the Gen 1.5s do depreciate differently compared to the Gen IIIs.
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:37 AM   #3
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A 2012 Focus SE with 12k miles? Lol that has to be the lowest mileage 2012 Focus SE in the country.



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Old 08-09-2019, 08:02 AM   #4
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I have a 2012 and I like it except for the DCT. My daughter has the same car in a 5-speed MT so I have a direct comparison. Hers is much more enjoyable to drive. I know there's a chance Ford will be forced to do something for DCT owners even those of us with high mileage and outside the extended 14M01 limits. That said, I am not confident that they will do anything that is a long lasting fix and it will continue to be a pain and reliability is compromised.

So, I'm seriously leaning towards the swap and I'm beginning to source some used parts to do the job myself. I've found what looks to be a suitable junkyard car that is local and has all the MT stuff still on it so I should be able to do it pretty inexpensively and I will use new parts where it makes sense (clutch, seals, CV axles). This being the case, I can do it for under a grand which is doable. I've seen the guides and nothing scares me about the job itself. I'm already running Tom's tune for the DCT so it makes sense for me to just keep the PCM and automatic wiring harness and I can avoid having to tow it to a dealer to do any reprogramming.
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Old 08-09-2019, 09:56 AM   #5
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I don't have any major DCT issues yet other than the normal weirdness. I'm concerned that would change quickly when I put the car into service.

Yeah, the miles are very low. Should have bought a Mustang GT. I'd have no problem hanging on to that. We got the Focus when we needed two cars and haven't used it much past the first year. We held on to the car thinking we'd use it again.

Seeing others do the manual swap is temping me. Hopefully I could get 150k miles out of the swapped car and recover that value.

None of the options are ideal. Anyone have a time machine?
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:28 PM   #6
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No way I would sell it if it is paid for. My wife's '14 Titanium had the clutches done under warranty but now has 100,000 miles on the F clutch without shudder.
If you are worried about the car, go to a volume dealer and tell them you have shudder. Most have so many come in that they do not even test them, they just replace them off the bat. The car has very little residual value due to age and reputation, you might as well enjoy it. Had you bought an 11-12 GT you would have been worried about the #8 cylinder failure, MT-82 weirdness and failures, bubbling hoods and obsessing about the BBQ igniter tick.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:32 PM   #7
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No way I would sell it. My wife's '14 Titanium had the clutches done under warranty but now has 100,000 miles on the F clutch without shudder.
If you are worried about the car, go to a volume dealer and tell them you have shudder. Most have so many come in that they do not even test them, they just replace them off the bat. The car has very little residual value due to age and reputation, you might as well enjoy it.
Being a 2012, it is likely beyond the 7-year limit for 14M01 warranty work so if that's the case, it would be an out of pocket expense. Even if it was still within limits, the dealers have to test and submit results to Ford corporate in order to get reimbursed for the warranty work so unless they have a way of faking it (and not sure why they would do that for some unknown customer), they have to test the vehicle. Only hope is that with the recent publicity, they will extend and hopefully vastly improve the 14M01 program.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:45 PM   #8
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Step 1, take it to the dealer. It may be elligible/need 14M01 done, and since it's a 2012, it will be close to the limit for the 7 years. (Might already be done. Mine still qualified in March.) Also have them check the fuel tank/purge valve. Get whatever service you can get from them.

The cheapest car to own is pretty much always the car you own.

I always worry when I see an older car with really low miles. The same way the tires rot, many of the engine and transmission seals will rot, too. In the case of the transmission, that's a big problem, which these are known to have already. If you can get the seals done under warranty, so much the better. It may still be possible, but may need a call to Ford customer service to get the extension on the seal warranty.

If you are planning on a large increase in the duty of the car, this is a likely place for problems to pop up. This can be a good thing to be aware of if you are planning on selling it to friends or family, too. Sometimes people are not so understanding of the car that they just bought having been a garage queen, and suddenly it's a daily driver with problems.

In the end, if you sock away some dollars for the manual transmission swap, and can do the work, or have it done reasonably, you SHOULD be able to get the time to put the cash away to get it done while keeping the DCT in the meantime. It depends though on just how much do you need the car to be reliable. If you can't be without it for more than a couple of days (During which you would need a taxi, and/or rental) then you might want ot start gathering parts, rather than just the money, but really, it's probably not that much more to buy another car which would be serviceable, probably less if you're paying someone else to do the swap.
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:59 PM   #9
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Being a 2012, it is likely beyond the 7-year limit for 14M01 warranty work so if that's the case, it would be an out of pocket expense.
Not necessarily. I have received good will from Ford before out of warranty and with this being so close and the threat of Congressional investigations looming, Ford might be more than willing to help.

Quote:
Even if it was still within limits, the dealers have to test and submit results to Ford corporate in order to get reimbursed for the warranty work so unless they have a way of faking it (and not sure why they would do that for some unknown customer), they have to test the vehicle.
They simply input the variance from normal into the computer and submit it to Ford. The dealer that did mine was doing this 50-75 times a week for customers. The '14 never got seen before it received new clutches, we walked in and put our name on a list then walked out. The car was brought in a week later and ready late the same day. I have a friend that is a Ford tech in northern Virginia that told me that the problem is so widespread that dealers are bypassing the test to get these cars in and out as quickly as possible. He said "They're all bad, no one is faking it."

Of course that is just my experience, yours may vary.
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Old 08-09-2019, 01:06 PM   #10
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Also, trade on this car is horrible. KB is $2300-$3300 and is always above the dealer guide. With dry rotted tires and no dealer wanting this car on their lot, I expect a $1200-$1500 trade in offer as it sits, and it will go straight to auction to be sold at a buy here pay here lot. If you want that $5000 mark, put on some cheap fresh tires and list it locally. Start around $5995 and work your way down.
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