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Old 05-13-2019, 08:41 PM   #1
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Engine Vibration at Idle

Since I bought my 2014 SE Hatchback about 9 months ago it has had quite a vibration/shake at idle. It has 63K on it. The motor mount on the right side almost looks new but I can't see the transmission mounts. The tack is very steady at 750. It almost feels more like a balance problem but I am stumped. Any ideas?

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Old 05-13-2019, 10:32 PM   #2
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Mine is like this also. 2012 S with DCT.

Interested in other people's experiences.

Also a free bump for you :-)
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:45 PM   #3
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Yea it could look new but you've got a inline 4 cylinder w/ a poor design mount system. One look at the mounts & how they're designed to support & control the vibrations of the motor will tell you w/ how other manufactures. btw I just change out the oem psm at 94K. Use a Ford oem only for the psm.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlars View Post
Since I bought my 2014 SE Hatchback about 9 months ago it has had quite a vibration/shake at idle. It has 63K on it. The motor mount on the right side almost looks new but I can't see the transmission mounts. The tack is very steady at 750. It almost feels more like a balance problem but I am stumped. Any ideas?

Thanks, Rich
My passenger side mount looked fine but when I pressed the top of it with my thumb, oil spewed out so I replaced that along with the other two mounts. The lower transmission mount is easily accessible with the car jacked up. It may help to have a little pressure on the transmission with another jack to get things aligned for installation.

The driver's side mount is a bit more work to get to but not really bad. You have to jack up the car enough to get a jack and a block of wood under the tranny. Place the jack a bit front of center of the tranny. If you get it position too far rearward, it will push the engine forward making it hard to realign the bolt holes during reinstallation.

Next, remove the MAF sensor wire and the airbox (all comes out as one unit without removing the filter after unscrewing the hose clamp and removing the two small hoses attached to it). Then you unclip the positive battery terminal cable connectors from the battery box (pry them off) and remove the front panel of the battery box (lift up). Remove both battery cables and take the battery clamp and battery out so you can remove the three screws holding the battery box in place. Then you'll see the driver's side mount underneath the bracket/cover that the battery box was screwed into. There are four bolts around the perimeter of the mount and one in the center. Just make sure you have some upward pressure on the tranny before you unbolt it and remove the jack before doing the final torquing of the bolts when replacing it.

Last edited by IrishBrewer; 05-14-2019 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Yea it could look new but you've got a inline 4 cylinder w/ a poor design mount system. One look at the mounts & how they're designed to support & control the vibrations of the motor will tell you w/ how other manufactures. btw I just change out the oem psm at 94K. Use a Ford oem only for the psm.
THIS^^^

I changed my passenger mount a few months ago and it solved the vibe problem. Mine was easy to diagnose, bc it spewed fluid all over the place. Also, if yours looks "almost new," someone may have put a shyte aftermarket one in. Those are supposedly worse than OEM.
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:27 AM   #6
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Your going to find swapping out the psm only w/ a Ford psm does make a big difference. I've been running a VF engineering dogbone (roll restrictor) & dsm. The only reason I swapped out the dsm was I had to remove it to change out the reverse switch, so why not throw a poly mount onboard......
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:48 PM   #7
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Thank you all so much! I can tell that going from the Ford Truck forums to the Focus Fanatics forum I am going to have to learn a new set of acronyms. No worries, I found the complete set here.
I spoke too soon. PSM? And Diamond Star Motors doesn't seem to make sense for DSM. OK DCT is missing as well.
This engine compartment looks wide open compared to the car it replaced. A 1996 Taurus SHO, That SHO engine did not leave room for any work. Loved the car, loved working on it even though it was a huge pain.
Anyway, looks like I need to be shopping for some new OEM mounts.

Thanks again for the advice, especially the how-to's

Rich
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:05 PM   #8
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I just replaced my PSMM last weekend, only 35k miles on the car (2015 hatchback) and the mount was not leaking oil. Take a look at the old next to the new, keeping in mind the low mileage. I could fit my pinky finger in between the rubber isolate and engine mount frame on the new one. The old one did not appear to be rubbing when I inspected it with a small mirror installed on the car, but you can see here the gap is much narrower on the used one (left). I replaced with the genuine Ford oem part, it will cost a bit more but is the best bet for solving vibration issues. I also installed the ERMM (roll restrictor at back of motor). This is the one used in the Focus ST and electric focus, which stops the motor from twisting forward and backwards towards the firewall under acceleration and in between shifts ore noticeable on the manual cars I think).
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:53 AM   #9
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The PSM (pass side mount) is the one that causes the most vibration at idle although the other two can contribute. They all collapse with time but the workings inside often are the issue, they can break in several ways and why aftermarket ones totally suck mainly on the PSM. Some come pre-broke (I know) to not work at all out of the box. Others break in a month or 6 months. They are supposed to be loaded with true silicon fluid but the Chinese ones (almost all aftermarket, one site makes almost all brands made) often use what appears to be straight water and will rust inside in a short amount of time to not work correctly inside.

The earlier unrestrained type and the restrained type like picced here all work like a battering ram inside, the mount has a solid mounted plate inside that the working part on engine continuously batters against to limit the polar moment that creates the vibration, at some point they all get loose inside from all the beating and then parts start breaking loose. The early ones would literally beat the top cover and plate completely out to have them then run through your belt to tear it up. Why the later ones are restrained at the top.

I for one HATE Ford parts prices but until they quit making them the PSM there needs to be bought from Ford only, it cannot be overstated.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richlars View Post
PSM? And Diamond Star Motors doesn't seem to make sense for DSM. OK DCT is missing as well.
Passenger side mount
Driver side mount
Dual-Clutch Transmission

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
I for one HATE Ford parts prices but until they quit making them the PSM there needs to be bought from Ford only, it cannot be overstated.
Around $70/shipped. Reasonable for an OEM mount.
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