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Old 04-22-2019, 02:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet911 View Post
Yes, Brombo has a line for OE spec parts, not sure if they are just re-brands though, but sounds by your comment like they are (The ones for SAABs were good quality/price, but this was like ~2010 when I did those...)

For example
Brembo OE spec pads https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...609770_0_16108

and rotors
Brembo OE spec rotors https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...32_367517_2708

I was thinking of just grabbing ford rotors/pads, but the kit is like 180$ around me so not sure if that is the best way to go or not. For this much I could get duramax gold rotors ($150) and pads ($40), but no idea if they are worth it?

@ felixthecat: thanks for the recommendation, but I really am not looking to put performance breaks on this car as it is a DD that sees zero track/hard driving, just something that will last as long or longer then OE pads/rotors.

@ Ductape91: Did you get Ford OEM pads? I assume they sell only one kind for the focus SE? 6500 miles and squeaks sounds pretty bad.
No, just the cheapest off the shelf there, came from napa autoparts i believe.
If they did it in the shop they would have used oem ones but time and money then said no for me. The oem ones wore down to the plates, and wrecked the rotors, with no warning as they dont have audible wear tabs on the and caught me by surprise going to work, and considering its a light car low miles with mostly highway miles i never considered the brakes to be worn a possibility.
Learned my lesson.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:26 PM   #12
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Brembo makes a lot of OEM spec brake parts as well as high-end racing parts. For some cars, Brembo branded parts ARE the inexpensive OEM replacements.

Not too dissimilar from how Ford makes cars in various trim levels with varying levels of performance, really.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:03 PM   #13
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Regardless of brand, MIKE the new discs you are getting and know what the reject thickness is. The cheaper Chinese of anything typically make their discs just thicker (maybe plus .010"?) than the reject thickness to make them much cheaper, and then the new parts are undersize within 3 months of use. The better discs will be much thicker (.100" or more) than the reject number thus allowing you possibly one good cut before they are too thin. And don't use semi-metallic pads, or what now wear the discs as bad as the pads do. Ceramic will let the disc go much longer to another set of pads.

I used to sell them.
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet911 View Post
Hey all,
Planning to do break pads and rotors on the front of my 2014 SE, and wanted to know which brands you tried/prefer. Do not need anything high performance, just long lasting daily driver pads/rotors ( I used to grab basic brembo rotors and pads for my saab 9-5, not sure if its better to go with ford OE kit, duralast gold? , or the brembo parts?)

Also for those who have done the job your self, besides blue thread-lock for the bolts, anti seize/anti-squeak for the pads do I need anything else (e.g. do any of the clips fail .etc)?

Also any good guides to follow?

Thank you all.
I've been happy with the Centric parts:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...054276&jsn=474 (if you shop at rock auto, use the 5% off)

Their pads usually come with the clips and the rotors have the top hats painted black (nice if your car sees salt/rust, one less thing not to show rust.)

I havent really seen anything too different from this car vs any other similar car. I've done the job on my 07 focus, my '13 ST and my wife's '10 mazda 3. Pretty much exactly the same process, nothing special. I have had luck just using a large C clamp to compress the caliper back in on the fronts (crack the reservoir first and careful to not overflow, should only be an issue if it was ever topped off.) If you havent ever swapped fluid and blead the lines, now is time.
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:21 AM   #15
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Most modern brake pads and rotors do not require nearly as much break in as older ones needed.

You should still bed in the pads, but that's a fairly simple procedure and won't take long.

New rotors may have a layer of sealant on them to prevent rust. Freshly machined used rotors won't, nor will they if they're in good condition and weren't machined, though this will generally take a bit longer to bed in, as the surface isn't as smooth.

I've always bedded in my brake pads by bringing the car to a complete stop from somewhat increasing speeds. Do not keep the brakes applied after coming to a complete stop, nor remain at a stop for long while doing this. You want to allow the rotors to cool evenly, which they won't do while the pads are clamping down on a single spot. The last few passes should be bringing the car to a complete stop with hard braking from 50mph or 80km/h, not quite hard enough to lock up the brakes or kick in the ABS, repeated to get the rotors hot, then drive at freeway speeds for a while to cool the pads and rotors again.

Bedding in the pads transfers a little bit of the friction material to the cast iron rotors, but you don't want to bake any into a spot, which will result in the uneven braking that people call warped rotors. (They are almost never actually warped, but will feel that way because they have a "sticky" spot, usually because there is more friction material baked into them. from having the brakes held there while hot.) That's why you want to get the brakes hot but not hold the pads against them after.

I usually do this late at night, so as not to cause too much disruption on the freeway. :)
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:43 PM   #16
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'They are almost never actually warped......'

Amen to that, truer words never spoken. I used to cut brake parts all day long and you could not beat that into their heads. The cutting machine actually screws the parts up out of true simply cutting them, it is unavoidable. They will reinstall the exact same parts out of true .002"-.003" every time you break the setup down and put it back together.
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Old 04-24-2019, 02:31 PM   #17
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I use power stop evolution brake pad and rotor kit, they last me over 50 k of hard uber and amazon flex driving. You can find them on amazon for about 130 dollars.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:18 PM   #18
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Ford OEM lasted me 80k and still had some pad left. Replaced with advanced auto parts junk and the rotors were trashed in 50k miles... ordered Wagner Thermoquiets and Wagner Coated rotors (great reviews) off RockAuto for super cheap. Price compared with Advanced Auto for the same wagners and RockAuto saved me nearly $150 from local parts stores. So far so good on the wagners. Do yourself a favor and check out RockAuto if you haven’t already. You’ll never want to get parts from your local parts place again.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:16 PM   #19
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X2 that, I got a chain store employee discount of 40% and still couldn't touch Rock prices on most stuff.

If you cannot sort out which parts are correct though the OTC parts seller is the one for you. At Rock you NEED to know exactly what you want or there will likely be trouble.

I have ordered hundreds of parts with no issues but some absolutely cannot go there.
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:41 AM   #20
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Hmm, thanks wish I looked at Rock auto before ordering from pep-boys (needs to get this done this weekend), I got the Akebono ProAct pads and Wagner E-Shield Brake Rotor for under $200 after taxes and should be able to grab them tomorrow AM from the store.

Couple of quick questions:

1) The gliding pins are 7 mm hexes (allen) right? Also what is your preferred grease? I used to use the grease that came with the pads for lubrication, or just plain silicon grease, although right now I have a tube of Super Lube with PTFE in it that I am thinking of using (https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-...omotive&sr=1-3)

2) what is the size of the bolts that are used to hold the caliper bracket that needs to be removed to get the rotors off?

3) What is your preferred grease for the pad ears (The sliding metal/metal contact points between pads and caliper, I used to apply a thin layer of aluminum anti-seize (Permatex
81343) with good results)

4) Do you use something like Disk break quiet between pad and caliper mating surfaces to glue them on? Or is it preferential to use a grease of sorts (On saabs I always used disc break quiet with excellent results)

Thanks all.
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