Major loss of power when driving in rain almost every time - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum
Ford Focus Forum
HomeContact UsAbout UsGalleryDiscussion ForumsMarketplace


Go Back   Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum > Ford Focus Third Generation > MK3 Focus

MK3 Focus The place to chat about general questions, window tinting, exterior body, interior and lighting upgrades for the third generation 2012-Current Focus.

Search This Forum | Image Search | Advanced Search    
FocusFest

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-27-2018, 05:26 PM   #1
Focus Enthusiast
 
QCGoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Fan#: 122217
Location: Davenport, IA
What I Drive: 2014 Sterling Gray SE Hatch 5spd

Posts: 74
Points 617, Level 12
Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12
Level Up 34% Completed
Level up: 34% Level up: 34% Level up: 34%
Forum Activity 6%
Activity: 6% Activity: 6% Activity: 6%
FF Reputation: 1 QCGoose Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Major loss of power when driving in rain almost every time

This may be a little long-winded but it's completely baffling so please bear with me:

Every time I drive my car in the rain, it runs fine for about the first 2-5 miles into the drive, but then out of nowhere will suffer an extreme loss of power to where even heavy application of the throttle will net almost ZERO acceleration, and dropping it down a gear or two will get it to accelerate like it has maybe 5 or 6 horsepower at most. The car gets louder, but forward momentum is absolutely minimal. It's infuriating and IMO incredibly dangerous.

Now usually when this happens, it doesn't throw a code/turn on the CEL, and I turn the car all the way off and back on, and it then runs normally for the remainder of the drive, like a simple "reset" fixes things. However, about 2 months ago when this happened and I started the car back up, it threw a CEL which later on my scanner said that it was a Cam Position Sensor fault.

Seeing as my car has over 100k miles, I bought both cam sensors and replaced them without questioning whether they really needed replaced or not (they weren't too expensive for OEM, so I figured it couldn't hurt to replace). The CEL was gone, but the car continued to go into "limp mode" when driven in the rain each time after replacing the sensors.

Today was rainy and it happened this morning, I shut the car off, restarted, and continued on my way to work as usual. However, after work, still raining, it went into limp mode again a few miles into my drive and when I got the chance, I shut the car off and restarted it. This time it was still in limp mode and the CEL was on. I shut it off again, restarted, still in limp mode. Repeated the process another 2 or 3 times, still in limp mode, so I said screw it and just limped it home.

I hooked up my scanner, said Cam Position Sensor fault again, I tried erasing the code but it kept coming back, so now I have the battery disconnected and am hoping reconnecting it in a bit will perhaps help the (I assume false/faulty) cam sensor code being thrown.

Regardless of the cam sensor code, does anyone have the slightest clue what the hell could be going on with my car? Luckily it isn't my only vehicle, but it is my work commuter (about 72 miles round trip daily) and having to deal with this every time I drive it in rainy weather is just ridiculous, and as I mentioned before, pretty damn dangerous.

I don't know what the issue is, but geez, I'd think a car built in 2014 should be operable in wet weather. I've never had this issue with any other vehicle I've ever driven and it's driving me crazy.


QCGoose is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-27-2018, 10:25 PM   #2
__________/\__
 
wavsine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Fan#: 118470
Location: DFW, TX
What I Drive: '16 Camaro RS '13 SE Hatch TOTALED

Posts: 2,115
Points 159,077, Level 100
Points: 159,077, Level: 100 Points: 159,077, Level: 100 Points: 159,077, Level: 100
Level Up 0% Completed
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Forum Activity 3%
Activity: 3% Activity: 3% Activity: 3%
FF Reputation: 34 wavsine Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (2)
Have you done TSB 15-0036? Ignore the build dates because I have seen cars that fall outside the build dates that have no protective loom on the wiring.

Your problem could be any number of things but I would first verify that you don't have a short from chafed wiring getting wet in the rain.


https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...-0215-now.html
__________________
@wavsine
wavsine is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-28-2018, 09:50 AM   #3
Focus Enthusiast
 
QCGoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Fan#: 122217
Location: Davenport, IA
What I Drive: 2014 Sterling Gray SE Hatch 5spd

Posts: 74
Points 617, Level 12
Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12
Level Up 34% Completed
Level up: 34% Level up: 34% Level up: 34%
Forum Activity 6%
Activity: 6% Activity: 6% Activity: 6%
FF Reputation: 1 QCGoose Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Last night I hooked the battery back up and the CEL was gone.

However, I did take a look at my wiring harness where it runs down in front of the intake manifold and not only does it NOT have the protective plastic wiring loom (build date of 03/14), but I was able to pull it out just enough to see that the sharp manifold edge has completely cut into the tape, exposing the actual wires inside.

I'll need to check again with an inspection mirror to see if the actual copper wiring itself is exposed or even broken as I couldn't pull the harness out far enough to check that specific detail, but I could see the actual colors of the wires' outer coatings.

Not only that, but on the manifold's sharp edge, I could even see indents along the edge witg what looked like a bit of sea-green corrosion along the indents from the individual wires themselves that have rubbed on the edge over time, which leads me to believe that the actual copper itself is exposed, if not cut in half in some spots.

Either way, I think that is likely the culprit, and with my car being a 2014 with almost 112k miles, it's obviously well out of warranty, but this is a major problem from Ford themselves and because of them, my car is not only dangerous to me and everyone around me, but also my 2- and 4-year-old sons when they're in the car.

Where do I go from here???
QCGoose is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-28-2018, 10:32 AM   #4
__________/\__
 
wavsine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Fan#: 118470
Location: DFW, TX
What I Drive: '16 Camaro RS '13 SE Hatch TOTALED

Posts: 2,115
Points 159,077, Level 100
Points: 159,077, Level: 100 Points: 159,077, Level: 100 Points: 159,077, Level: 100
Level Up 0% Completed
Level up: 0% Level up: 0% Level up: 0%
Forum Activity 3%
Activity: 3% Activity: 3% Activity: 3%
FF Reputation: 34 wavsine Great Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (2)
Your build date of 3/2014 just underscores what I have seen. Many cars that fall outside of Ford's cutoff for this TSB lack the protective plastic loom on the wiring harness.

If the copper wire is not broken and if you can gain enough clearance to wrap electrical tape around the bare copper, then you can repair it yourself. The problem, as you have found, is that it is really difficult to get your hands in such a tight space to work. If you are able to tape the bare wires, remember to put a protective plastic loom over the harness so this does not happen again.

If an individual wire is badly damaged or broken, then this unfortunately becomes a skilled repair best left to the dealer.


The official repair method from the TSB:

(1) When repairing damaged circuits, it is necessary to first disconnect the electrical connectors for the HPP,
MAF/IAT, EVAP purge valve, ECT, HO2S11, HO2S12, FRP, CMP11, CMP12, VCT11, VCT12 and all 4 coil on
plugs (COPs). Refer to the Wiring Diagram for component locations.

(2) Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Workshop (WSM), Section 303-12.

(3) Remove the bolt from ground G103.

(4) With the engine harness retainers disconnected from the top of the engine, the engine harness can be lifted
and moved forward enough to gain access to circuits in the chafing location.

(5) Additional wire must be added to the repaired circuits to maintain proper circuit length. Refer to the Wiring
Diagram Section 5 and use the solder method.
__________________
@wavsine
wavsine is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-28-2018, 11:44 AM   #5
Focus Enthusiast
 
QCGoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Fan#: 122217
Location: Davenport, IA
What I Drive: 2014 Sterling Gray SE Hatch 5spd

Posts: 74
Points 617, Level 12
Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12
Level Up 34% Completed
Level up: 34% Level up: 34% Level up: 34%
Forum Activity 6%
Activity: 6% Activity: 6% Activity: 6%
FF Reputation: 1 QCGoose Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Oiy, that does NOT sound fun. I have absolutely no problems tackling mechanical issues myself, but when it comes to electrical fixes that are beyond just "disconnect and reconnect", I'd rather send it off to a pro.

But something tells me this is a costly, time-consuming fix that should honestly be covered by Ford. It amazes me that this isn't a recall with how widespread of an issue it seems to be, especially with how utterly dangerous it is.
QCGoose is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-28-2018, 12:13 PM   #6
Focus Enthusiast
 
frizz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Fan#: 174865
Location: Great Bend, KS
What I Drive: 2014 Race Red SE

Posts: 316
Points 7,530, Level 57
Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57
Level Up 90% Completed
Level up: 90% Level up: 90% Level up: 90%
Forum Activity 3%
Activity: 3% Activity: 3% Activity: 3%
FF Reputation: 1 frizz Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
This reminds me. I need to split a chunk of heater hose and wrap the harness at this spot before I have an issue.

Sent from my SM-G930V using FF Mobile
frizz is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-28-2018, 02:19 PM   #7
Focus Enthusiast
 
frizz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Fan#: 174865
Location: Great Bend, KS
What I Drive: 2014 Race Red SE

Posts: 316
Points 7,530, Level 57
Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57
Level Up 90% Completed
Level up: 90% Level up: 90% Level up: 90%
Forum Activity 3%
Activity: 3% Activity: 3% Activity: 3%
FF Reputation: 1 frizz Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
I went another route and got rid of the offending corner.

Sent from my SM-G930V using FF Mobile
frizz is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-29-2018, 12:58 AM   #8
Focus Enthusiast
 
QCGoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Fan#: 122217
Location: Davenport, IA
What I Drive: 2014 Sterling Gray SE Hatch 5spd

Posts: 74
Points 617, Level 12
Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12 Points: 617, Level: 12
Level Up 34% Completed
Level up: 34% Level up: 34% Level up: 34%
Forum Activity 6%
Activity: 6% Activity: 6% Activity: 6%
FF Reputation: 1 QCGoose Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Looking on FordParts.com, a new replacement wiring harness is less than $200 (or even better, less than $160 through 12/31 with the 20% off discount). Other than about 20+ connections and a few that are probably a bit of a pain to get to, is it basically just plug-and-play? Or would I have to have a Ford dealer reprogram/reflash some things after I installed the new harness?

If it's something I can just swap out myself and be good to go after the final connector is snapped in, I feel like a new harness wouldn't be the worst idea...
QCGoose is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-29-2018, 06:41 AM   #9
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Fan#: 339178
Location: Boiling Springs, PA
What I Drive: 2012 SEL Hatch, 2003 Cent. Sedan

Posts: 355
Points 732, Level 14
Points: 732, Level: 14 Points: 732, Level: 14 Points: 732, Level: 14
Level Up 32% Completed
Level up: 32% Level up: 32% Level up: 32%
Forum Activity 44%
Activity: 44% Activity: 44% Activity: 44%
FF Reputation: 3 IrishBrewer Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Other option would be a good junkyard part off of a wrecked Focus. This is not a part that sees much wear other than in the area you know to scrutinize.
IrishBrewer is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-29-2018, 11:48 AM   #10
Focus Enthusiast
 
frizz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Fan#: 174865
Location: Great Bend, KS
What I Drive: 2014 Race Red SE

Posts: 316
Points 7,530, Level 57
Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57 Points: 7,530, Level: 57
Level Up 90% Completed
Level up: 90% Level up: 90% Level up: 90%
Forum Activity 3%
Activity: 3% Activity: 3% Activity: 3%
FF Reputation: 1 frizz Good Standing Member
Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by QCGoose View Post
Looking on FordParts.com, a new replacement wiring harness is less than $200 (or even better, less than $160 through 12/31 with the 20% off discount). Other than about 20+ connections and a few that are probably a bit of a pain to get to, is it basically just plug-and-play? Or would I have to have a Ford dealer reprogram/reflash some things after I installed the new harness?



If it's something I can just swap out myself and be good to go after the final connector is snapped in, I feel like a new harness wouldn't be the worst idea...
That looks like the way to go. You shouldn't have to reflash anything. I would erase any existing codes before install and pull codes after to make sure the new harness isn't causing any.

Sent from my SM-G930V using FF Mobile
frizz is offline  
    Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Bookmarks & Social Networks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum, Ford Focus RS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
What I Drive
Year, color, and model of your car. Example: 2003 Focus Centennial Edition Sedan
Name
Your real name.
City
State
Country
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:05 PM.


Copyright 2002-2015 FocusFanatics.com. All Rights Reserved : : Advertise Information

Focus Fanatics Ford Focus Forum offers many fun ways for you to engage with other Ford Focus Owners from across the world. Whether it be about the aftermarket performance modifications, technical how-to's, European tuned suspension or awesome fuel economy similar to the Mazda CX-3, Audi S3, Mazda MX-5 Miata and Acura TLX. You can find all Ford Focus, Focus ST and Focus RS related information here. Join our Ford Focus discussion forums and chat with local Focus enthusiasts in your area. If you own other makes have a look at Challenger Hellcat Forum, Charger Hellcat Forum, Cadillac ATS-V Forum, Cadillac CTS-V Forum, Lexus RC-F Forum, Lexus GS-F Forum, Mercedes GLA Forum, Mercedes GLE Forum and Volvo XC90 Forum.




 

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1