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Old 07-23-2017, 10:25 AM   #11
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Done!

Result: It was a manufacturing defect between the aluminum and plastic joint.

New Tstat:




New Rad + New lower rad support:




Installed Rad:



Vacuum Filling:






Rep point given to tnygigles66 for the video (hero of the day)... I forgot to search for ST since it's almost the same.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCouz View Post
Done!

Result: It was a manufacturing defect between the aluminum and plastic joint.

New Tstat:




New Rad + New lower rad support:







Installed Rad:



Vacuum Filling:






Rep point given to tnygigles66 for the video (hero of the day)... I forgot to search for ST since it's almost the same.

Awesome!! Good job!!
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Old 07-23-2017, 05:07 PM   #13
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Dealer wanted almost 40$ for the foam piece on top of the condenser/rad/fan shroud.

Did a better job that cost me ~10$.

I use aluminum foil duct tape (rated at least 250F) and door open cell foam.

This will prevent air leaks between the condenser and radiator making the rad fan work more efficiently.








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Old 07-23-2017, 05:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCouz View Post

I use aluminum foil duct tape (rated at least 250F) and door open cell foam.
That's a very clean looking install.

Great work.
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Old 07-23-2017, 05:59 PM   #15
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^^^Good idea on the Duct tape, looks clean and efficient!
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:14 PM   #16
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These plastic radiators are junk. Mine just sprung a leak at 75K miles and 5 years. I would pay the $$ to replace it with a nice all-aluminum radiator, but Mishimoto only makes them for the Focus ST.

How long did it take you to replace the radiator? That looks fairly painful, I'm guessing darn near 6 hours.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifespeed View Post
These plastic radiators are junk. Mine just sprung a leak at 75K miles and 5 years. I would pay the $$ to replace it with a nice all-aluminum radiator, but Mishimoto only makes them for the Focus ST.

How long did it take you to replace the radiator? That looks fairly painful, I'm guessing darn near 6 hours.


Did mine in about 2-3 hours but I also did 180 thermostat too


Sent from my iPhone using FF Mobile
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:15 PM   #18
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I better pay attention to mine as we just went over 5 years of ownership but only 37,000 mile so hopefully at least a few more years.

My original 4Runner radiator has plastic ends and even tho' it wasn't failing I replaced it at 187,000 miles and 18 years old.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifespeed View Post
These plastic radiators are junk. Mine just sprung a leak at 75K miles and 5 years. I would pay the $$ to replace it with a nice all-aluminum radiator, but Mishimoto only makes them for the Focus ST.

How long did it take you to replace the radiator? That looks fairly painful, I'm guessing darn near 6 hours.
After further examination, it appears I may have been fooled by the ol' sticking thermostat trick. A brief overheat from a stuck thermostat can blow coolant out. Even though the degas bottle appeared to have a small amount of coolant remaining (causing me to think it was OK to drive), I suspect there was significant air in the rest of the cooling system.

Further confusing the issue was a lot of coolant in the vicinity of the radiator! I'll keep an eye on it now that it has been refilled with distilled water. If there are no further indications of trouble I'll replace the thermostat and refill with non-Dexcool Organic Acid Technology coolant like the new Mopar #68163848AB.

Here is an interesting article about the different types of coolant. And an article about Ford's change over to what is essentially the old GM DexCool. Despite claims to the contrary about DexCool being a "specification", not a coolant, the new orange Ford coolant is DexCool. It is an OAT coolant with 2–ethylhexanoic acid. Anybody who has used this stuff long term knows about the infamous "orange sludge" that can build up in the cooling system, and that 2-EHA is a plasticizer that softens silicone and other gaskets not designed to resist it. It is said the sludge build up only happens when the coolant is allowed to get low, and unprotected metal corrodes, triggering sludge formation. There is some debate about this.

So the Mopar coolant listed above represents one of the first mfg's to use an OAT without 2-EHA and it's detrimental effects.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifespeed View Post
These plastic radiators are junk. Mine just sprung a leak at 75K miles and 5 years. I would pay the $$ to replace it with a nice all-aluminum radiator, but Mishimoto only makes them for the Focus ST.

How long did it take you to replace the radiator? That looks fairly painful, I'm guessing darn near 6 hours.
Around that but I cleaned the frame rails, bumper and stuff (also did the 180 thermostat)...took my time ~ 2 days on and off.

The hardest part was to slide back the radiator front shroud (active shutter) without damaging the rad fins...took an easy way and chopped the top of it. It was blocking the air to the now removed snorkel anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RonMaiden View Post
I better pay attention to mine as we just went over 5 years of ownership but only 37,000 mile so hopefully at least a few more years.

My original 4Runner radiator has plastic ends and even tho' it wasn't failing I replaced it at 187,000 miles and 18 years old.

We have the same MY and mileage when I noticed coolant level drop & slight smell here and there. But I think very cold winter (hot and cold cycle) didn't help with the weak plastic rad design. You might have a longer life out of it being in CO.



Advice... best way to check if your rad has a tiny leak is to check if the foam underneath the radiator is wet. Don't wait until it drips on the tarmac...it will be too late!
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Last edited by ELCouz; 09-13-2017 at 04:10 PM.
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