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Old 02-26-2017, 07:50 PM   #11
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I swear by these:

MotoMaster Battery Terminal Corrosion Protectors | Canadian Tire

You can also buy sprays for battery terminals to keep out the water. There's a popular kind that's purple in colour. No idea what brand it is though.

Personally, I use this:

Rust Check Coat & Protect | Canadian Tire
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:37 PM   #12
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Used 'em, used the purple spray - settle for a squirt of penetrating grease from a can these days.
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:12 PM   #13
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Just keep you battery happy (never under 12.0v) and it will stay clean.

My battery is OEM from ford factory build in 2011.

Terminals are clean AF...never greased never cleaned at all

PS: I live where road salt is frequently applied



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Last edited by ELCouz; 02-28-2017 at 05:08 AM.
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Old 02-28-2017, 12:33 AM   #14
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There are many ways a battery can go bad. (My opinion below, perhaps a bit simple and not all-inclusive, but fair to say)

1. Manufacturing defect
2. Damage due to shock (hard drop onto dense surface like concrete)
3. Discharge, and sometimes rapid recharge (example being battery was used without engine on for too long. Getting jump started then using the alternator to recharge the battery instead of a slow setting on a 110V automotive charger will cause A LOT of wear and tear on the plates inside the battery.
4. Hard use with an under-performing alternator. (big amplified stereo using more power than your car can put out) (highly unlikely)
5. Economy class battery (they just aren't as good)
6. Poor contacts (loose, corroded, this causes too much resistance and as simply as I can describe it, makes it difficult for the battery to charge and discharge properly, wearing it out faster. side note, I've even seen someone try to put their negative terminal over the plastic protection cap on the battery, that was funny. Back on task, Even if your connection "looks good" there's a chance it isn't good. I'm a big fan of cleaning off any residue on the terminals and battery posts and even going so far as to scrape the battery posts until I see shiny lead.
7. Not maintaining proper level of distilled water. Many automotive batteries are not sealed. They require a rare top off of distilled water since some of the water escapes over years of use. Most people have no idea batteries require this service.
8. Temperature. Batteries like to be around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Quite a bit colder and quite a bit warmer will decrease performance. There's also something to be said for temperature cycling and weakening the internal plates blah blah blah. This is one of the reasons newer cars have the battery in a nice protected box far away from heat producing parts of the engine, or even in the trunk.


I'm going to guess with newer cars the leading causes of premature battery failure would be using ANY part of the car's electrical system when the engine isn't running. It's common these days for cars to use a lot of amps for lights, stereo, heated seats, etc. while the engine isn't running and the more often that happens the more strain will be placed on the battery. My #2 choice is lack of water maintenance of the battery.

So I ask you, do you ever run your electrical components with the engine off? When is the last time you checked your battery fluid levels?

End post... Hope this was helpful.
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Last edited by AaronG; 02-28-2017 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 03-18-2017, 04:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronG View Post
There are many ways a battery can go bad. (My opinion below, perhaps a bit simple and not all-inclusive, but fair to say)

1. Manufacturing defect
2. Damage due to shock (hard drop onto dense surface like concrete)
3. Discharge, and sometimes rapid recharge (example being battery was used without engine on for too long. Getting jump started then using the alternator to recharge the battery instead of a slow setting on a 110V automotive charger will cause A LOT of wear and tear on the plates inside the battery.
4. Hard use with an under-performing alternator. (big amplified stereo using more power than your car can put out) (highly unlikely)
5. Economy class battery (they just aren't as good)
6. Poor contacts (loose, corroded, this causes too much resistance and as simply as I can describe it, makes it difficult for the battery to charge and discharge properly, wearing it out faster. side note, I've even seen someone try to put their negative terminal over the plastic protection cap on the battery, that was funny. Back on task, Even if your connection "looks good" there's a chance it isn't good. I'm a big fan of cleaning off any residue on the terminals and battery posts and even going so far as to scrape the battery posts until I see shiny lead.
7. Not maintaining proper level of distilled water. Many automotive batteries are not sealed. They require a rare top off of distilled water since some of the water escapes over years of use. Most people have no idea batteries require this service.
8. Temperature. Batteries like to be around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Quite a bit colder and quite a bit warmer will decrease performance. There's also something to be said for temperature cycling and weakening the internal plates blah blah blah. This is one of the reasons newer cars have the battery in a nice protected box far away from heat producing parts of the engine, or even in the trunk.


I'm going to guess with newer cars the leading causes of premature battery failure would be using ANY part of the car's electrical system when the engine isn't running. It's common these days for cars to use a lot of amps for lights, stereo, heated seats, etc. while the engine isn't running and the more often that happens the more strain will be placed on the battery. My #2 choice is lack of water maintenance of the battery.

So I ask you, do you ever run your electrical components with the engine off? When is the last time you checked your battery fluid levels?

End post... Hope this was helpful.
I'll check on your #1. Re: #2, I favor water top ups. There are varying views on whether this achieves much on modern batteries or not. The big problem with the Focus is you can't get at 3 of the 6 cells, at least on teh 2015 you can't.
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceflow View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronG View Post
There are many ways a battery can go bad. (My opinion below, perhaps a bit simple and not all-inclusive, but fair to say)

1. Manufacturing defect
2. Damage due to shock (hard drop onto dense surface like concrete)
3. Discharge, and sometimes rapid recharge (example being battery was used without engine on for too long. Getting jump started then using the alternator to recharge the battery instead of a slow setting on a 110V automotive charger will cause A LOT of wear and tear on the plates inside the battery.
4. Hard use with an under-performing alternator. (big amplified stereo using more power than your car can put out) (highly unlikely)
5. Economy class battery (they just aren't as good)
6. Poor contacts (loose, corroded, this causes too much resistance and as simply as I can describe it, makes it difficult for the battery to charge and discharge properly, wearing it out faster. side note, I've even seen someone try to put their negative terminal over the plastic protection cap on the battery, that was funny. Back on task, Even if your connection "looks good" there's a chance it isn't good. I'm a big fan of cleaning off any residue on the terminals and battery posts and even going so far as to scrape the battery posts until I see shiny lead.
7. Not maintaining proper level of distilled water. Many automotive batteries are not sealed. They require a rare top off of distilled water since some of the water escapes over years of use. Most people have no idea batteries require this service.
8. Temperature. Batteries like to be around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Quite a bit colder and quite a bit warmer will decrease performance. There's also something to be said for temperature cycling and weakening the internal plates blah blah blah. This is one of the reasons newer cars have the battery in a nice protected box far away from heat producing parts of the engine, or even in the trunk.


I'm going to guess with newer cars the leading causes of premature battery failure would be using ANY part of the car's electrical system when the engine isn't running. It's common these days for cars to use a lot of amps for lights, stereo, heated seats, etc. while the engine isn't running and the more often that happens the more strain will be placed on the battery. My #2 choice is lack of water maintenance of the battery.

So I ask you, do you ever run your electrical components with the engine off? When is the last time you checked your battery fluid levels?

End post... Hope this was helpful.
I'll check on your #1. Re: #2, I favor water top ups. There are varying views on whether this achieves much on modern batteries or not. The big problem with the Focus is you can't get at 3 of the 6 cellsl, at least on teh 2015 you can't.
Take the battery out...
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Oh, and to the Mazda - ANY remaining corrosion/acid just keeps the cycle going.

Acid needs to be neutralized, cleaning terminal alone is NOT enough (baking soda for a cheap/easy solution).
This^^^ & then add a light coating of grease to the outside of the terminals...
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:27 PM   #18
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Vaseline works great.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:38 PM   #19
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3 in 1 white lithium grease is what i use on my posts.. i applied it in 2012 after replacing my battery and its kept the clamp and post clean stuff sprays on foams and sticks.. even after pulling the post off while parting the car the post and clamp still had the wirebrush mark from when i cleaned it for the new battery.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:53 AM   #20
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i read that if the negative terminal is corroding that might mean not enough charge going to the battery?
What would cause that? Intially i had severe corrosion of the positive terminal. Needed to replace the battery and the cables. now 3 years on and i find my neg terminal highly corroded so that car would not start till cleaned....
advice?
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