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View Poll Results: Factory Lugs suck or is it just me?
Suck 35 71.43%
You're nuts, they're just fine. (or is it just YOUR nuts?) 14 28.57%
Voters: 49. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-01-2017, 11:42 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squad-G View Post
I am using 19MM socket and in 5 years, I never had any issue with the lug nuts. None stripped and they look like new. I am using the Ridgid 18V ½ Impact Driver to undo the bolts. I use my hands and a torque wrench to put them back on.

I know that my dealer is using a 3/4" socket (19.04 MM) so I leave my 19MM socket available in the console and they use it instead.
Nice. So you're also not torquing the wheel nuts to 721 lbs-ft of torque like many Focus Fanatics members insist you must?
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:47 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooOld View Post
Nice. So you're also not torquing the wheel nuts to 721 lbs-ft of torque like many Focus Fanatics members insist you must?
What? 721 ft-lbs? I hope you are joking lol.

I torque to 100 ft-lbs as per what is written in the manual in a star pattern.

I never had a lug fly on the highway.

Using a 2 foots breaker bar, they come off easily without any big force.

How can it happen?
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Old 11-01-2017, 12:33 PM   #63
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i torque mine to about 90lbs (from what my friends torque wrench went up to until it started to move without clicking) i stand on the tire iron until it holds my weight without bouncing up and down like a clown. never over torqued them nor have i ever snapped one the only ones i have snapped were clients cars after using a breaker bar and they snapped clean off trying to loosen them. i've never in my life damaged a rim nor have i ever used a rattle gun on wheel nuts..

(added)
I also use silver anti-seize on every nut i reinstall, to many cheap tin covered lugs hold water and they corrode/rust even worst when the end of the lugnuts get stuck on the corroded mushroomed ends of the wheel studs.
i buy and spend more on anti seize then i do on oilchanges but then again using antiseize means im not fighting to remove the nuts or have to worry about things binding
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:12 PM   #64
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Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:25 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth View Post
Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new.
they should be looking new seeing your list starts in 2014
most of the nuts that spin are on 2007 and older. hehehehe my SAP have rotting caps they are just corroded to death my jaguar is 2003 and gets brand new tires installed every season as its very high mileage (500,000+)
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Last edited by ArcticMynx; 11-02-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 11-02-2017, 07:06 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elizabeth View Post
Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new.
I have a 2013 which had the lugs (as I said earlier) fail last spring, so at 4 years old.

Mine looked new until they failed as well.
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:37 PM   #67
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I torque 85 to 90lbs for aftermarket alloy wheels, oem alloy or steel wheels, I do 100ft lbs
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:02 AM   #68
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Picked up a set of Gorilla 12 mm lugs from CJ Pony parts in black to match the car. So far so good, still look good.
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:04 AM   #69
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Quote:
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Picked up a set of Gorilla 12 mm lugs from CJ Pony parts in black to match the car. So far so good, still look good.
heh those look like solid built not capped hehe xD
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:50 PM   #70
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I bought real chrome ones, every car i had with those cap covered ones got replaced with the real thing! Yeah they suck!!
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