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Old 11-08-2018, 07:04 AM   #791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squad-G View Post
You are reading correct sir. I had very very little shuddering but maybe once a week once only and was very very little. I drive about ~400 miles each week to give you an idea and I do 80HWY/20CITY.

I made them change the clutches because I had the old seals and was afraid they leak outside the 5 years (or 7 years) warranty.
I'm guessing it wasn't really the shudder that's commonly associated with a defective DPS6. I don't mean that to say you don't know what you're talking about or anything; I have a friend with a 2013 who, after it came up about my shudder, thought he might have a problem. I took it for a drive and I'm 99% sure what he thought was "a little shudder" was actually just an occasional rough shift. That was probably more than 20k miles ago and his clutches are still fine. In my (limited) experience, real shudder is pretty obvious when you're able to compare it to a car without problems.

Still, heck, why not have them replace everything if they'll do it under warranty? If nothing else, the seals were improved and you might as well get new clutches
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:21 AM   #792
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Originally Posted by rczrider View Post
I'm guessing it wasn't really the shudder that's commonly associated with a defective DPS6. I don't mean that to say you don't know what you're talking about or anything; I have a friend with a 2013 who, after it came up about my shudder, thought he might have a problem. I took it for a drive and I'm 99% sure what he thought was "a little shudder" was actually just an occasional rough shift. That was probably more than 20k miles ago and his clutches are still fine. In my (limited) experience, real shudder is pretty obvious when you're able to compare it to a car without problems.

Still, heck, why not have them replace everything if they'll do it under warranty? If nothing else, the seals were improved and you might as well get new clutches
Seals were replaced... black to brown if I recall (or brown to black??). I'll try to get them to replace again the clutches under warranty just before I reach the 7 years limit... :) They are rated for 240 000 KM ("life of the car"). My dealer doesn't really care honestly as long as Ford pay them.

By shudder, what I mean, you go from a stop and the car shudder like it's shaking hard back and forth several times for 2-3 seconds... hard to explain. I've witness real bad Focus and I had a real shudder.

I have to say the car's shifting is not great all the time... on hard acceleration, sometime, the shifting will feel like a manual hard shifting but I like that. This is not shudder.
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Old 11-08-2018, 01:13 PM   #793
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I think if I had the DCT I would try the 5 speed MTX swap. Is this possible?
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:31 PM   #794
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I think if I had the DCT I would try the 5 speed MTX swap. Is this possible?
It is. I read a post weeks ago where a FF member claimed they did it.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:31 AM   #795
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I think if I had the DCT I would try the 5 speed MTX swap. Is this possible?
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Originally Posted by saintsfins View Post
It is. I read a post weeks ago where a FF member claimed they did it.
Definitely possible, but not for the faint of heart: https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...sion-swap.html

There's some (mostly complete) documentation in there for what parts you need and one user claims they did it for under $1000 in parts (it was a DIY job, so labor was "free"), but they were able to scavenge a lot of it. And their car isn't really complete; some electrical and safety implementations aren't done, yet.

That said, user Shade-010 has a shop in Indiana where he has done several swaps, and I'm guessing he does it "right". But it's also pretty expensive (and, you know, you have to take your car to Indiana if you don't already live there).
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:35 AM   #796
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... Still, heck, why not have them replace everything if they'll do it under warranty? If nothing else, the seals were improved and you might as well get new clutches
In watching fordtechmakuloco's video where he replaces the seals and clutches in a Focus DCT I saw several places where he pointed out special attention and care required to avoid bad results.


Quote:
Published on Apr 30, 2014
In this video I show you how involved a clutch replacement is on one of these and why you may not get a perfect shifting trans afterwards
Unless you know for sure that the tech doing the work on yours is skilled and conscientious enough to do it without introducing new problems, that could be "why not".

Of course, if the choice is between having them do it at their expense now or yours later I guess that's a risk you have to take. It's not a job very many of us could do at home even if the cost was not an obstacle.

Ooops -- I just realized this wasn't one of the (many) threads dedicated to discussing problems with the DCT, though don't ALL threads veer into that topic eventually? On this thread's original topic, I've driven my Focus a whopping 16,777 miles in the 4.5 years I've owned it.

Aside from a few short local trips it's mostly been 100 to 150 fun miles at a time driving over the mountains between where I live and the coast (or sometimes to the central valley) and back, and up or down California Route 1 between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz. I love it, especially with a manual trans.

It has neither been one of the least nor the most trouble prone cars I've owned, but somewhere in the middle -- not as good as I had hoped, but about as I expected:

* The dealer sealed a leak at the passenger side of the windshield to fix some very noticeable wind noise right after I first got the car. Lucky we were in the middle of a bad drought, so no water leaked in, but still not very confidence inspiring. A damaged right side rocker panel and rear valance (from being transported?) were also replaced.

* I added protection to the engine wiring harness myself, per the TSB for that.

* Same for relieving stress on the hood release cable to make it less likely to break and more likely to stay in place if it does.

* Maybe some day I'll get around to wrapping the wires in the trunk lid with a loom or some extra tape but for now I've just pulled them clear of any sharp edges.

* Though my car's build date was in the range for the cars that got recalled to replace the bad Bosch fuel pumps, the dealer said that "some", not "all" cars built in that window were affected. According to their list of VINs mine was OK. I hope that is correct.

* The power steering got a little fussy for a week or so, then failed completely at just under 11,000 miles. I liked it better on the highway without the EPAS, torque steer and all (though parking was strenuous) so I drove it that way for a while before having the dealer fix it. (Some day I'd like to find a way to reduce the power assist by about half above 20 mph or so and stay as it is stock below that speed.)

You'd think the electronic control unit could just be unplugged and replaced with a new one, but that repair required replacing the whole steering rack. That requires removing and reinstalling the entire front subframe. Poor design with little regard for maintainability (my specialty) IMO. From what I could see inspecting all the affected parts afterwards it looks like they did a good job.

* While the dealer had the car they also did the door latch recall. Not sure they got the rear door panels back together correctly, but nothing bad enough to make it to the top of my to-do list. (I wish I had taken "before" photos and paid more attention when I picked it up.)

* Three or four times in 4.5 years I've had a gush of water come out from between the two rubber seals at the bottom of the rear doors. The dealer could not reproduce the problem, so I'll have to review the thread on that to see if I can find and fix the cause. Some day.

* I had planned to buy a new evap purge valve and replace mine preemptively to avoid the collapsed fuel tank problem if it failed. Now I think I'll wait for the dealer to do it as part of the upcoming recall, since that will include a software update that I would not be able to do myself. (Sigh.) Meanwhile I'll be sure to not let my gas tank get less than half-full, as Ford recommends.

* Inspecting everything while changing the (Pennzoil full synthetic) oil and (Motorcraft) filter myself once a year (~3,500 to 4,000 miles intervals) has been easier than most cars I've owned.

* Rotating the tires every 5,000 miles has kept them wearing evenly so far.

All in all a pretty good car for what I paid for it. I hope to not have to ever replace it for however much longer I'll be able to continue driving.
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Last edited by Arco-Zakus; 12-07-2018 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Fix external link, and get back on topic.
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Old 11-19-2018, 04:39 PM   #797
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Just under 50K for my 2016. The car does drive nice (I have the 5 speed).
So far it's just the backup camera, and seat lumber that's broken. The HVAC fan was weird for a bit, but hasn't acted up lately. It's a cheap car I guess...
As long as the drive train stays reliable, I'll be content.
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Old 11-19-2018, 05:55 PM   #798
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Quote:
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* Three or four times in 4.5 years I've had a gush of water come out from between the two rubber seals at the bottom of the rear doors. The dealer could not reproduce the problem, so I'll have to review the thread on that to see if I can find and fix the cause. Some day.
There's been a fix discovered for this. Inside the door there's a plastic sheet that is supposed to be sealed to one side inside the door. Your's (and mine) have leaks.
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:15 PM   #799
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98800 when traded--bye bye
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Old 11-19-2018, 08:08 PM   #800
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98800 when traded--bye bye
You drove a PT cruiser and you're dismissing your awesome focus?
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