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Old 01-31-2019, 01:57 PM   #11
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:03 PM   #12
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Post #2 said it as well.

If awarded % then the pass side is 70% of all vibration followed by the other two at 15% apiece, but any one broken can get far worse.

The main reason the cheaper mounts get used is in the statement, they are cheaper. The aftermarket though never picked up on how to make them correctly, they do not want to expend the money it takes to make them right. Some few WILL work but common to fail way early or not work right out of the box. The last two I got I actually had to cut the guts out of them right out of the box to make them work far better, no sense in getting more defective ones.

The two on trans end commonly do not give as much trouble, the pass side one is the one that really has to be right to kill all shake, why it at least needs to be the Ford part. Once Ford runs out of them there will be much wailing and gnashing of teeth........
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Last edited by amc49; 01-31-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 02-02-2019, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX5-SES-2006 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahildebrand12 View Post
UPDATE #2: I checked the transmission mount and it looked fine, wasn’t collapsed. I replaced the lower torque strut mount and it got rid of probably 90% of the vibration. Replacing the cheap anchor passenger mount with oem ford will probably get rid of the rest.
Hi!

Do you any update to give about the changes you made to your car?
Having the same problem with my 2006 SES. The 3 engine mounts were replaced recently and the sound is still very strong and it affects my eardrums !!! Before I decide to change cars, I may wish to try something.
Thank you and have a nice day.
John
Hi. Yes I do have an update. I feel as I have probably annoyed people on this forum with all my posts about this vibration with my car. but I am happy to say that I have actually figured it all out and it took a while, and if anyone on here followed any of my past threads they might remember some of this.

First, the others got it 100% right. DO NOT buy a cheap mount for the passenger side. Under no circumstances. I will admit, I replaced that mount with a cheap one twice before I tried the ford one. The ford motorcraft mount is simply the best mount. Replacing all 3 mounts should fix the general engine vibration.

The issue I was having was a specific, radial sounding vibration at 1500-2100 rpm. I never got rid of it, but I actually think it’s normal. These engines are internally balanced and although it’s pretty good, it can never be perfect. My sisters car, a 2010 focus has the same vibration at around the same rpm. It only does it in park or neutral anyway, so I don’t even care. Why would I be reviving my engine at that rpm anyway in park or neutral. This is why >>

The other issue I had was a vibration on acceleration. Every time I’d accelerate from a stop, i felt a side to side vibration that got faster as my engine speed increased. I thought this was the vibration I had in park. But it turned out it wasn’t. It was simply due to the cheap struts I bought. Once I finally changed my struts with better ones, the vibration went away. Wait until you hear the reason why. It wasn’t because the mounts were bad. Nothing was actually wrong with the strut.

I took them both off and put them side to side. The driver side strut was WAY longer than the passenger side. I guess the spring on one compressed and stayed that way while the driver side stayed longer. Because when I ordered them in they looked the same. Anyway, this height difference, was putting a strain on the sway bar, causing the vibration.

I know that it was due to the strut sitting higher because before I put new struts on, I clamped the spring down a little to lower the height and voila - the vibration went away.

I now absolutely love my car and it drives like a dream. I just put new rear shocks on as well because until now I had only changed the front.

tl;dr- don’t buy cheap parts, do your research on the parts you’re buying
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:37 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ahildebrand12 View Post

First, the others got it 100% right. DO NOT buy a cheap mount for the passenger side. Under no circumstances. I will admit, I replaced that mount with a cheap one twice before I tried the ford one. The ford motorcraft mount is simply the best mount. Replacing all 3 mounts should fix the general engine vibration.

The issue I was having was a specific, radial sounding vibration at 1500-2100 rpm. I never got rid of it, but I actually think itís normal. These engines are internally balanced and although itís pretty good, it can never be perfect. My sisters car, a 2010 focus has the same vibration at around the same rpm. It only does it in park or neutral anyway, so I donít even care. Why would I be reviving my engine at that rpm anyway in park or neutral. This is why >>

The other issue I had was a vibration on acceleration. Every time Iíd accelerate from a stop, i felt a side to side vibration that got faster as my engine speed increased. I thought this was the vibration I had in park. But it turned out it wasnít. It was simply due to the cheap struts I bought. Once I finally changed my struts with better ones, the vibration went away. Wait until you hear the reason why. It wasnít because the mounts were bad. Nothing was actually wrong with the strut.

I took them both off and put them side to side. The driver side strut was WAY longer than the passenger side. I guess the spring on one compressed and stayed that way while the driver side stayed longer. Because when I ordered them in they looked the same. Anyway, this height difference, was putting a strain on the sway bar, causing the vibration.

I know that it was due to the strut sitting higher because before I put new struts on, I clamped the spring down a little to lower the height and voila - the vibration went away.

I now absolutely love my car and it drives like a dream. I just put new rear shocks on as well because until now I had only changed the front.

tl;dr- donít buy cheap parts, do your research on the parts youíre buying
Great you figured it out......
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:11 AM   #15
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My 2002 ZX5 ford focus has had a rough idle and a vibration. It has 150,000+ miles. I had it diagnosed at the ford dealer but nothing showed up. They said that these little cars were bad about doin...
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:15 AM   #16
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My 2002 ZX5 ford focus has had a rough idle and a vibration. It has 150,000+ miles. I had it diagnosed at the ford dealer but nothing showed up. They said that these little cars were bad about doin...
Have you installed plugs, replaced the fuel filter?
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by jorge-garcia View Post
My 2002 ZX5 ford focus has had a rough idle and a vibration. It has 150,000+ miles. I had it diagnosed at the ford dealer but nothing showed up. They said that these little cars were bad about doin...
Could also be engine mounts
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Old 02-03-2019, 10:53 AM   #18
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My 06 zx3 rollover salvage title has ran rough since 40k. Now has 125k and I got rid of the tick by popping tumble flap actuator linkage apart and wiring the flaps open. Problem I'm here for is a Jake brake noise when coasting that is uneffected by neutral and reving. Rattles even on jackstands when letting of at 30. Sorry if it's unrelated or been answered. I'm new here learning the site.
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