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Old 03-01-2017, 09:39 AM   #11
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i have 6 3 ton jack stands 2 3 ton floor jacks and 2 of those small dinky hydraulic jacks you can pick up from crappy tire for $30 (those are backups or a oh crap i cant get my large jack under times lol)

i usually have a car up on stands when i winter store it under a car cover i jack the car up and rest it on the stands using the lobes of the pring indents of the suspension so the suspension stays compressed, the frame/subfram has no strain and the tires are off the ground
also forgot i also have 2 sets of ramps. depending on the job i prefer to use ramps then jacks and stands.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:12 PM   #12
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Usually I would just jack the car up to do brakes, never go under the car for any reason that would just be stupid. But, what I was saying was I've over stressed the thing through just leaving it up on a jack or two. Just went out and got a pair of stands and a new jack so I'm all set now.

When I went under I had one side up on a curb so there was some support there. Thanks everyone for the replies, just stressed the mount issue.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:23 PM   #13
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dont be.. the mounts are quite resilient.. they are designed to take quite alot of beating just think of the potholes, bumps, abuse running into curbs ( older focuses are known to get curbed on the cats which pushes the engine straight back and up)
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:00 PM   #14
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I personally have seen them tear out by simply striking a curb just good enough to tear the bottom rubber out, they are in no way designed to take that pretty much at all. Any hard sudden stop can rip that loose. The engine inertia throwing forward alone can do it. My significant other has issues with sometimes jumping the point of a turnout say when turning left, the jump up and engine scrape on the end of the curb tip has torn one at 5 mph before.

They take a lot of load up and down all day long but not in any forward-rearward direction with full engine weight on them. Cut them apart and see why. BTDT.

Not looking to make any trouble here but my experience there has been nothing like that at all. Others may be different.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:29 PM   #15
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I personally have seen them tear out by simply striking a curb just good enough to tear the bottom rubber out, they are in no way designed to take that pretty much at all. Any hard sudden stop can rip that loose. The engine inertia throwing forward alone can do it. My significant other has issues with sometimes jumping the point of a turnout say when turning left, the jump up and engine scrape on the end of the curb tip has torn one at 5 mph before.

They take a lot of load up and down all day long but not in any forward-rearward direction with full engine weight on them. Cut them apart and see why. BTDT.

Not looking to make any trouble here but my experience there has been nothing like that at all. Others may be different.
xD that means all my cars should technically have no engines.. they have all been curbed as ive had to drag a few off with my truck they ramp the underside up a curb or a parking bollard and lift the front end enough to not be able to back off it ive replaced oil pans and transmissions pans including several cats that have been torn open but never had issues with the mounts..

plus its not hard to look at the dogbone or the transmission mount to see if they are damaged its the passenger side one thats known to be a s**t design.

tell me this how does ford and all mechanics change the zetec timing belt without lifting and dropping the motor using the dogbone and transmission mounts still attached and not damage the mounts and dont tell me mechanics havent slipped motors off the jack when doing them.. not everyone is going to have a $400+ engine hoist for a single timing belt

i know your a mechanic AMC but people in rural areas beat the snot out of their cars including mine, mine are work cars ive only changed one passenger mount in all my cars ever.. its rare for the engines to FALL out of the focus if ever when the mounts go bad the worst the car acts is the engine turns the car into a vibrator and the steering wheel does the bohemian rhapsody bob back and fourth my gold wagon im working on now has 300,000+ and ive dropped the engine on it.. it fell about 4 inches until it leaned on the engine bay subframe when i slipped a bolt and the assembly slipped..

how many people in this form have posted about parking the car on the cat over a curb quite a few..
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:16 PM   #16
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Look at what you yourself say, the answer is there somewhere in the middle. I myself lift them all day long as long as it is up/down and often while mount is attached, you just limit the travel. Why I said CUT THEM APART.

I have NEVER said the engines fall out although they can come very close, we had one guy here who picced one that did. BUT, falling out engine and a torn mount are miles apart.........again, cut them apart.

The main engine retainer inside the mount is the steel bowl washer shape molded into the rubber, it stops engine from coming 100% loose just like all other mount safety mechanisms designed over the last 50 years but it does NOT stop delamination of the rubber off the aluminum ring where it was heat/mold welded on in the slightest. There's a mile of movement before you finally hit that lock that holds the whole thing together and the mount can tear 50 ways before getting there.

I've cracked the pass side intermediate CV by dropping one too low (or too high, I can't remember now) on jack before, no noise whatsoever before the work and use jack and instant crunch, crunch, crunch, at 10 mph after. I knew it could happen and thought I was watching the axle angle but apparently not. Cracked tripod inside the joint. The service manual clearly states it's possible.

I haven't run a complete all-parts pass side mount in 10 years, mine have zero hydro action and 100% rubber only, the hydraulic portion being what fails them so often.

I rebuild the broken ones and using more of those parts you hate so much, I can take one with a blown out hydro section and make it work fine using maybe $5 in parts and again using the drill press. In fact, when the last two vibrated right out of the box I quickly cut the top rubber out to drain the fluid out and a bit more work and a massive 300% improvement in vibration coming into the cars. Both cars run fine like that now. Got a plan for a secondary pass side mount in a different spot if I ever get time to make it.

Admittedly I buy often cheaper parts but I refuse to buy the Ford pass side mount as the whole idea was designed by an idiot. Bigger 4s have been in the Ford lineup and no way did they shake like these do. I DO 100% push all people to buy if at all possible the Ford OEM pass side part (a rarity, their tensioners are far worse than aftermarket ones). It is better made than any aftermarket part out there. I have had Westar, Anchor, Napa, and DEA all apart down to the basic pieces and can pretty much tell you how each fails. The aftermarket ones tear at the bottom easier because they overcook the rubber to be too hard pretty much across the board, so by buying those adding to my own problem somewhat. I strongly suspect that all brands of OTC part there are pretty much coming from the same factory in China. Myself, $5 in parts and 15 minutes and I can have one in hand good enough to do what it needs to do.

Still love ya Bud. We just come from two different universes. What's wrong with that? Besides that, you don't know my wife, she is a car rough service Murphy's Law tester par extraordinaire.
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