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Old 10-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #1
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mk1.5 dash swap into mk1!

Going to finally be doing this soon (buddy is arriving with the stuff in an hour!), and I just had a couple small questions.

One, I know I'll need the crash/support frame thing, I gotta get that from the junkyard. Other than that, do I need anything else? The dash he's bringing comes with the gauge and radio bezels, vents, HVAC tubing that goes to the vents, all the switches, and passenger airbag.

Two, are there any helpful tips or tricks for removing/installing that would make my life easy? I'm pretty handy and it seems straightforward, but any insight helps.

Cheers!


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Old 10-07-2016, 01:04 PM   #2
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Have fun with the air bag is ask I have to say. By that I mean getting the Cover off without bending it. Other than that it is a piece of cake.

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Old 10-07-2016, 01:11 PM   #3
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I can imagine. I don't plan on using my old dash anymore, so if I end up with a couple small scratches or something I won't be too heartbroken. That's not to say I won't be careful though.
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Old 10-07-2016, 01:18 PM   #4
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At least you get practice taking the old one out first to kind of see how it goes together.

On the MK1 dash, the air bag cover has clips then 4 screws, I found using a screwdriver with a 1/4" attachment, 6 inch extension, universal joint, and I think 10mm socket worked the best. I would do it by hand, much easier.

On the MK1.5 dash, instead of clips every 2 inches. It is just 2 pieces all the way across.

You'll figure it out.
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Old 10-07-2016, 01:20 PM   #5
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Kinda sounds like when they made the mk1.5 dash they improved on it a little. I'll keep my progress posted!
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:00 PM   #6
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Got the new dash today, it was a little dirty from sitting and it was in what appeared to be a smoker's car.

I removed all the switches and any other electrical components, wiped them down thoroughly, and set them aside. Then hit all the plastic pieces with some diluted Simple Green and a soft-ish brush and power washed all of them, even the HVAC ducts. Everything looks factory fresh now!

Going to the junk yard probably Monday to grab the dash support brace thing.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:03 PM   #7
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I believe you'll need to change the door. cards as well to conform to the new curvature of the dash!
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Old 10-08-2016, 08:36 PM   #8
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Oh yeah, that's the plan! I think it will look pretty neat, with the black dash and doors and light gray seats and carpet. Good contrast! I'll post pics using FF Mobile when I do it. Maybe when I get everything, I'll do a start to finish thing to cement my spot somewhere in the how-to archive! Since pretty much everyone knows how to swap door cards I won't cover that (as financially I won't be able to pull off buying all four door cards AND the dash skeleton this time... adulting and bills and whatnot) so I'll just cover the dash swap beginning to end. I'll take pics of everything on my phone and maybe it'll help someone!
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:57 PM   #9
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So, tried to take bunches of pics, and because the only way I can do pics is tapatalk, and it froze up a lot (stupid phone) I couldn't get pics up. But here's what I did in some sort of logical order by memory. Haven't seen a how-to around, so I'll halfway make one.

Stuff you'll need:
05-07 mk1.5 dash of your choosing (The whole dash, including airbag cover, lower kick panels and glove box)
The crash bar/frame/skeleton from said mk1.5 dash
The HVAC tubing (just the ones that go to the vents and defrost holes, two big, two small, and the one that goes to the two center vents)
A friend to help is nice to have
mountain dew and food

Tools you'll need:
Some Torx bits/drivers (I think like T20 and T30-something)
5.5mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 24mm sockets
Various wrenches in similar sizes
Pliers
Philips and flat head screw driver of some description
Plastic trim removal tools (Got a set from Harbor Freight for 8 bucks that had 4 useful ones)

I'll start with the removal of the mk1 dash.
Disconnect your battery and wait several minutes to allow any residual power to drain from the system. Don't want your airbags to explode! Now's a good time to go get some food and whatever you may need that you don't already have.

Now get your 8mm and get at those lower kick panels! Personally, I like to work left to right (in my case, driver to passenger side. Our friends in Europe or elsewhere will do right to left I guess!). I started by popping out the fuse panel cover. Not totally necessary but there it is. There are 4 8mm bolts holding the kick panel on the driver side.

Once those are loose, be careful. The OBDII plug is clipped into it, as is the hood release. The OBDII plug simply comes out by carefully unclipping it from behind. The hood release is held in by a big nut (I used pliers. Looks like a 19mm). It wasn't very tight so no big deal there.

Now go ahead and drop your glove box. There are 3 7mm screws holding it in on the bottom. Undo those, open it with the handle, and it's out! Now undo the two 7mm screws holding in the part where the latch holds it closed.

Now's a good time to remove your center console. Pop out your cup holder inserts (should you be fortunate enough to still have them) and take out the two Phillips screws you'll find below them. The next bit depends on whether you have a manual transmission. If you have an auto, you'll have to remove the shifter handle differently. I just unscrewed the knob to let the boot come off of it. I have an armrest also. Pop the two covers off the side and back of it to expose the two Phillips screws holding it on, then the one screw in the rear cup holder. Then carefully lift the console out. Be careful with the handbrake boot (Mine likes to pop out of it's place on the console, but you may have to work it off the handle). Set it aside somewhere safe (I used my back seat).

Now let's start with the steering wheel stuff.
To remove the driver air bag, turn the wheel 90 degrees to expose two holes on the back. Use your 5.5mm socket to remove two bolts. Your airbag should now be loose and ready to come out! Be vary careful not to jerk it out, as there are two plugs behind it (one if you don't have cruise control). Carefully unplug these and set your airbag somewhere safe (again, back seat is excellent storage)

Now the steering wheel itself! There's a big 24mm bolt holding it in. It's not very tight, but take care. I used a 15/16" impact socket on a ratchet, because that's what I had (that's pretty much exactly 24mm). Undo that and your wheel should pop off without much effort. BE CAREFUL OF THE CLOCK SPRING behind it, as you don't want to screw with it too much! Take note of how it's positioned. Take a picture, mark it with a paint pen, do something. I'll make a note of how to reset it at the end anyway, but this is a critical piece.

Now that the wheel's off, you can start on the steering column covers! There are three Torx screws holding the bottom cover on. If you have tilt steering, pull the lever to move it out of the way. Then undo the three screws. To remove the covers, push in on the two clips (they're on the outside, where the two cover pieces meet toward the wheel) and they should come apart pretty easily. The top cover has some rubbery stuff that clips into the gauge cluster bezel, just pull it out gently. Set these parts near your now growing pile of stuff.

Next remove your wiper and turn signal levers by pushing in on the tabs you'll find at the top. Pop those and they come right out! Disconnect their respective plugs and put them in the safe place.

Now, the gauge cluster bezel. There are three 7mm screws holding it in from the top part. Undo these, and use your trim removal tool to persuade it out. Be careful of the trunk release button! Disconnect it and set your bezel in the now familiar parts pile.

Time to disconnect your gauges! Use your 7mm to remove the 4 screws holding them in. Carefully remove it, and disconnect the plug from the back. Mine's a Zetec, so there's one connector and there's a release lever on it. Set your gauges in your now cluttered safe parts place.

Next is the headlight switch bezel. Underneath the driver side kick panel right near the headlight switch, there's a 7mm bolt. Remove that, then use your trim removal tools to carefully pop out the bezel. Set it in the... well you get it by now. Now remove the 3 phillips screws holding the switch in, then pull it out and disconnect it. You know where to put it.

On to the radio and its surrounding habitat. Depending on what radio you have, this could be different. I have an aftermarket one, so this doesn't apply, but here goes. Get some U-shaped Ford radio removal tools from the store, and remove your radio. Disconnect it and put it in your safe parts area (henceforth referred to as SPA). There are four 7mm screws holding your radio bezel in. Undo those. Now use your trusty trim removal tools to gently pop the bezel out. Be careful, there are several things still plugged in. Disconnect your hazard lights and HVAC controls and set the whole shebang in the SPA. Some lucky ones have a cool clock. Same thing, disconnect that too.

Onto the fun bit... not. Your passenger airbag is probably the most properly difficult thing you're going to have the genuine displeasure of dealing with during this endeavor. Start by reaching up into the vast void created by removing your glove box. You'll be looking for two 10mm bolts that attach your air bag cover to the crash bar. There's really no easy way to do this, but use your 10mm wrench to remove those. Once you miraculously do that, the rest is cake. Use your trim removal tool to very carefully pop the airbag cover from the dash. Then remove it and blah blah.

Now use your 8mm to undo the four bolts holding your passenger airbag. There is also a metal bracket here. Carefully lift it up and remove the purple and green plugs from its sides. You do this by pinching the two tabs on each one. Set your airbag in the SPA next to the 6546861 other parts you've accumulated thus far.

Now, you're almost ready to remove the big part of the dash! But first, some miscellaneous trim pieces. Use your trim removal tools to pop the small side pieces in the door jambs, then your A-pillars, then the trim in the foot well areas. The foot well trim can be removed by unscrewing the big plastic screws with a flat head and then gently popping them off. Be careful, the fuel cutoff switch is in the passenger side! Now, there's the black trim piece under the middle of your dash. There are two plastic rivet thingies with Phillips heads, unscrew those and a 7mm screw on the passenger side of it. Undo those and gently pull it out.

Now you're ready to unbolt the big plastic dash! IIRC there are 9 bolts holding it in. Working driver to passenger side, remove the two 7mm bolts from the door jamb area, then the two behind the gauge cluster, then the one behind the HVAC controls, then the two under the passenger airbag, and finally, the two in the passenger door jamb area. Now your dash should come out with GENTLE persuasion!

Again, this is from memory. If it gets hung up, check for any wiring clipped into it. Gently pry those off. It shouldn't be too hard to pull the dash out. If it is, it's likely something is still attached. Be patient, you've gotten this far already!

Now that the dash is out, you'll want to drop your steering column. This is where marking the clock spring becomes a good idea! There is one big Torx screw next to your keys, and three 13mm nuts holding the column on. Undo those and CAREFULLY set it down on the floorboard. Try not to kick it around much.

Next remove the ductwork! There are four tubes originating in the giant black box in the middle of your dash, they pop out. There is also the short piece going to your two center vents. Be careful and remove those. Easy peasy.

Now the wiring that goes everywhere. This bit can be overwhelming. Slowly and methodically work your way around the crash bar, detaching any wiring that is clipped onto it. Be careful, you don't want anything shorting out or not working once your new dash is in! There is a ground on the passenger side of your radio area, use your 8mm to remove the bolt. The fuse panel is located on the driver side. Loosen and remove the two 7mm gold colored bolts holding it in and unclip it from the crash bar. In hindsight, it'd be an awesome idea to put masking tape on each connector and label it with a Sharpie to tell you what it goes to. AGAIN, BE SLOW AND CAREFUL. Make sure you detach ANY and ALL wiring from the crash bar.

Now, it's crash bar removal time. There are a bunch of gold-colored 10mm bolts holding it in. Two on either side in the door jamb area, four near your cupholders, and one really funny one. Remove the visible ones from the sides and cupholder area. The funny one is weird: With your driver door as open as possible, remove the black rubber plug (located above the uppermost hinge). Get your 10mm socket and a short extension and find the 10mm bolt that it hides. Loosen that and you're ready to take out the crash bar!

I cannot stress this enough, be slow and extremely careful! You don't want any wires hanging you up with this part, as pulling out this big metal frame could easily tear stuff up. Go over every inch of the now-loose crash bar and double check that all your wiring is unclipped. Now get your friend and lift it out!

You'll now be looking at a very spacious cabin, in which resides an overwhelming mess of wiring and bits. It's a good idea now to make sure all your bolts and screws and nuts are sorted and somehow marked as to where they go. I took pictures on my phone, but do what you want! Plastic baggies and a Sharpie are a great way to go. Go through your wiring again to make sure nothing's chafed or otherwise compromised.

Go get some food, you earned it! Just take a different car, because you can't drive the Focus yet.

Now, go through your pile of new parts! This is where it gets exciting. You should have (as haphazardly outlined above) your new dash, all the vents and switches and radio bezel, glove box and kick panels, and crash bar.

Get your new crash bar and compare it to your old one. It looks largely the same, but how the radio mounts is different. That's really the only difference I could find!

With how it all goes together still fresh in your mind, CAREFULLY move the mk1.5 crash bar into position, again taking great caution not to mess up any wiring. Once you're confident that it's in place, put all those golden colored 10mm bolts back where they go.

Now, your new HVAC tubing! Place those in just like the old ones came out. If you look, they're even labelled! I used some duct tape to seal them a little better where they connect to the main HVAC box, but that's not completely necessary I guess.

Route your wiring back where it all goes. You may have to zip tie some things, ask me how I know! Double and triple check it all. You probably have already, but luck favors the prepared. Don't forget the ground near the radio and the fuse panel! Bolt those back in place.

Now carefully lift your steering column back up and into place. Tighten up the three 13mm nuts and the big Torx screw. I don't have a torque spec, but I'm sure there is one... It's worth looking up. Again, try not to disturb the clock spring a whole lot, those things are fragile.

Now that the big crash bar is in and the steering column is attached to it, now is a good time to wrench-check all those fasteners. You don't want a rattle or a loose steering column! Also check your wiring again blaghity blah. Zip ties, bros.

Time for it all to come together! Grab your new dash and start putting it in place! The new dash goes in much like the old one came out. Just be methodical and slow. Don't wanna scratch up your new dash, after all!

Grab your 7mm bolts that held in your old one and put them in their places, snugging them up firmly, but be sensible.

Now put in your passenger airbag. The connectors are color coded so you'll see where to put what connector. Again, safety and stuff. Place it gently in its place and tighten the four 8mm bolts that hold it in.

Now, the passenger airbag cover. It may take some gentle pounding, but pop the cover on. It shouldn't be too difficult. Then, get those two 10mm bolts that held the old cover in (the difficult ones) and somehow work those into their homes. Again, there's no easy way to do this, but don't give up now!

Next go ahead and start putting A-pillar, door jamb/floor and console trim back where it goes. Now that the dash is in it won't be in your way.

Get your new headlight switch, plug it in and put it in place with the three phillips screws that held in your old one.

Now for your gauge cluster and bezel. You'll find that the gauge cluster bezel also covers the headlight switch area. Basically, just plug in the cluster and bolt it back in with those 4 7mm screws and pop the bezel on. Don't forget to reconnect the trunk/hatch release button! Put that 7mm screw back on underneath the headlight switch.

Next, get your old wiper and turn signal switches, plug those back in and pop them into place and reinstall your steering column covers! Don't forget the three Torx screws holding them on from the bottom. It may take a little back and forth working the covers to fit together, but they will.

Put your glove box back in, same way it came out.
Same with the driver kick panel. Remember your hood release and OBDII connector!

Depending on what radio you have, this may differ, but basically you bolt the radio onto the crash bar/frame. I have an aftermarket radio, and I had to purchase a dash install kit for the 05-07 Focus to make it work. If you're using a stock Ford radio, make sure it's for the mk1.5.

Next do your radio bezel and HVAC controls, pretty much the same as how the old one came out, except the radio bezel doesn't actually bolt in. It just pops into place! Don't forget your 12v power plug and hazard light switch connectors! (I did :P)

Now for the steering wheel... This part's tricky. Remember the clock spring? If you marked it, make sure it's in position and make sure you remember what position your wheel was in. In hindsight, it's a good idea to straighten it back up once the driver airbag is out.

If you didn't mark the clock spring, slowly turn it counterclockwise until you just barely feel it bind up, then turn it ~2.5 times clockwise. It should now be reset and centered. Make sure the yellow ring is back in it (it may have fallen out) and carefully place your steering wheel back on. Start the 24mm bolt by hand and then snug it up. Again, there's very likely a torque spec for this.

If I haven't missed anything, you're now done! Reconnect your battery and go test it out!

Basically, the install is a reverse of the removal. Here's a great video on the MK1 dash removal that really steered me in the right direction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzhUV7DY80

Again, as I stated before, this is completely from memory. I did this a couple days ago, so forgive me if I missed anything!

This is just how I did it, and I'm sure that, while it worked for me, there are differences in procedure and other things that would make this install more appropriate for a more qualified mechanic at an actual shop. I am not responsible for any damage or any other unfortunate circumstance that may occur as a result of this tutorial.

Also, sorry for no pics. Really am. My phone is just stupid.

Hope this helps, and I'll edit it if I remember anything else.
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Old 10-13-2016, 12:07 AM   #10
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