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Old 10-03-2019, 12:20 AM   #21
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If the stat is put back in with the small bleed port not facing up the system will stay full of air. That small hole MUST face straight up or issues.

The OEM stat is a 195F and you add roughly tennish degrees for actual engine working temperature. On a regular zetec anyway, I have no idea what the SVT temp is.

Chinese stats? I warrantied so many I couldn't count, most of the chain branded ones are garbage. Stat is one of those parts that you spend more than normal on as they are so cheap and can do so much damage anyway. Premium part only there.
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Old 10-03-2019, 08:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Matchpik View Post
If the heater doesnt blow hot, when it should, it's usually, due to a lack of coolant. But if low coolant is not your problem, then I would imagine a lack of circulation, in effect a bad water pump. Anyone else think this is the case?


That makes sense that the t-stat was only opening 1/16ish of an inch and at 210 plus degrees. No heat because of no t-stat in right now is due to port arrangement, doesnít flow through with no resistance from the t-stat. That said, I had to run without due to work schedule. But, new one is at ford so Iíll grab it today.

As per the port, I donít believe it can be placed anyway but up, hoses wonít connect if the unit is in any other way than up.


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Old 10-05-2019, 04:10 AM   #23
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'As per the port, I don’t believe it can be placed anyway but up, hoses won’t connect if the unit is in any other way than up.'

Dunno where you get that, the stat can be rotated 360 degrees there. Hoses do not impact that at all.
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Old 10-05-2019, 01:15 PM   #24
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'As per the port, I donít believe it can be placed anyway but up, hoses wonít connect if the unit is in any other way than up.'

Dunno where you get that, the stat can be rotated 360 degrees there. Hoses do not impact that at all.


The bleed port. That feeds back to the resovoir. It cannot be positioned any other way than up. The hose positions as well as the bolt pattern will not allow the t-stat housing to bolt to the head any other way. Itís just not possible.

Now, if you are talking about putting t-stat in 180 from how it should be, that could be possible, however would require a lot of force due to the rear spring plate hitting the upper hose outlet internally.

If you are talking about the bypass, as in the little hole on the T-stat itself, then yes that can be positioned any way.

We are talking about the bleed port, which is on top of the housing, not the small bypass hole with the floating tang in it.


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Old 10-05-2019, 01:24 PM   #25
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Thatís what itís called, a jiggle valve. I believe thatís what youíre referring to, correct?


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Old 10-05-2019, 01:26 PM   #26
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Also, got the motorcraft t-stat in, heat is amazing and never gets above 103c on the highway, 98c in the city, and holds solid at 96c while idling for almost 45 minutes.


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Old 10-06-2019, 06:39 AM   #27
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Jiggle valve, piddle valve, yes that, It IS a port in the stat edge, we're just talking past each other. I tend to remove the small valve, ball or valve, they tend to rust shut later and then you lose bleeding ability. With a simple hole there it works fine, the engine never notices it. I tend to drill holes in other stats on cars that do not have them if the position lends itself toward them bleeding better with a hole. I also remove the spring plate at back end of stat as I don't use the hose coming off the lower front of housing at all, it's gone. That hose is just a bypass that carries water from engine right back into engine, it helps warmup by a few seconds but it acts against the engine when it overheats by recycling overheated coolant right back into engine to get even hotter. It pushes you into a solid overheat situation faster. Gone it cannot do that, the engine may live over it without popping a gasket.
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Old 10-12-2019, 12:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Jiggle valve, piddle valve, yes that, It IS a port in the stat edge, we're just talking past each other. I tend to remove the small valve, ball or valve, they tend to rust shut later and then you lose bleeding ability. With a simple hole there it works fine, the engine never notices it. I tend to drill holes in other stats on cars that do not have them if the position lends itself toward them bleeding better with a hole. I also remove the spring plate at back end of stat as I don't use the hose coming off the lower front of housing at all, it's gone. That hose is just a bypass that carries water from engine right back into engine, it helps warmup by a few seconds but it acts against the engine when it overheats by recycling overheated coolant right back into engine to get even hotter. It pushes you into a solid overheat situation faster. Gone it cannot do that, the engine may live over it without popping a gasket.


So, as you said, I did drill an extremely small hole in it as well. However, now, it maintains temp flawlessly. But, the heater only works at around 3000rpm. Itís kind of weird. So, driving around town, heater works great, but, cruise at 55 in fifth, it goes cool, not cold, but just barely a hint of heat. Step it up to 68mph, it gets hot again, down shift into 4th at 55mph and it gets hot again. That said, Iím wasting gas on the way to work, I hit garlock which is 55mph, so I set cruise in 4th at that speed and I have a hot heater. But if I go to 5th, it drops out again.

Iím honesty at this point thinking an obstruction in the core, or an even greater possibility, water pump is ďweakĒ. I believe Iíll change the water pump first (not sure how old it is anyway) then move to the heater core, just because from what Iíve known, heater core replacement is a complete pain in 90% of vehicles.


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