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Old 07-21-2019, 04:42 PM   #11
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Agree on the hard stop with both of you on the hard stop. It sounded like a whole bunch of metal parts beyond the starter coming to thunk. The first time was particularly bad. Also, the two times I pulled the spark plug boots, they were wet with what seemed like condensation (but no coolant smell). Thinking about it, the wet plugs I described before also seemed like diluted fuel and oil. I don't want to think about this too much...

So if I pull the plugs and start, is it necessary to disconnect the coils? What would be good to see for this test and what would be bad to see?
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:01 PM   #12
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So if I pull the plugs and start, is it necessary to disconnect the coils? What would be good to see for this test and what would be bad to see?
To remove the plugs you need to remove the coils. To remove the coils you need to unplug them. I think you just want to see that the engine cranks freely with no compression load at this point.

If you are going to do extended cranking I would also remove the fuel pump relay R7 (C1051 in the diagram below - and note diagram is upside down from the way the BJB appears under the hood) or fuse F12 so there is no fuel pressure .



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Old 07-21-2019, 09:24 PM   #13
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Okay, thanks for that on the fuel relay. I will go ahead and disconnect that because I can see a pool of fuel in the second from left well.
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Old 07-21-2019, 10:39 PM   #14
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Thanks Blokhead and AMC for bringing up the hydrolocking. Did not intend for this story to be about someone hydrolocking their motor (LOL - I thought that only happened to other people!). I pulled the plugs a few days ago while they were wet, there there was no visible liquid below. However when I pulled the plugs today based on your suggestions, there was a pool in the second from left well. I sucked enough gas out to almost fill up a small fuel treatment bottle. Looked like clean gas. Another well had dampness w/deposits and the others looked dry.

Cranked without the plugs and it was smooth with no binding. The well with the pool looked like Old Faithful. Did not have any spray form the other wells.

So I guess is that I need new injectors at a minimum. Is there anyway for me to assess the damage from the hydrolocking? Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:00 AM   #15
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The only thing I will do next is that compression and go from there.
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Old 07-22-2019, 11:17 AM   #16
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* disconnected MAF – no start
* starting fluid about two seconds spray at front of TB - no start
* flooring gas pedal – no start
* had successful spark all ignition coils

cannot run the starter for more that about half second, give or take.
Dont understand how you can check for good spark or do other cranking tests if you cant crank the engine for more than half second?

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Old 07-22-2019, 11:22 AM   #17
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The only thing I will do next is that compression and go from there.
On a cold engine you my not get the psi readings I stated. At this point you are looking for consistancy cylinder to cylinder more than anything else.

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Old 07-22-2019, 01:30 PM   #18
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I would not call it a good spark – just a spark. This was my last test and by this point, I was turning the ignition for as short as possible to try to minimize the sudden halts. My son was calling out if he saw spark but we were not looking for strong and consistent spark. In fact, he said one was “barely” but that was good enough for me at the time given that I “thought” the starter or flywheel (only) were suffering. Crummy thing is, before I started really testing (before I brought this to the forum), I had checked for flooding in the cylinders and had researched leaky fuel injectors. I had an idea what to check, just not the experience to recognize it…

But yea, I will do a compression check and see what I get. Still too early to determine if we will junk the car and find another $1,400 Focus. But geez, we have already put in hours (the Mrs. has complained) and over a grand in parts…
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:55 AM   #19
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I rented a compression tester from AZ and the readings were all over the map. We started out at 150 psi with a smattering or 30s and mostly zeros after that. Even if there were no blown rings, bent rods, etc, I was considering a timing issue to make things even more complicated. But to get a better idea on the reliability of the rented gauge, I bought a new compression tester the next day and son changed the oil. BTW, this was the second oil change since my son had the car with less than a 1,000 miles and it did not smell like oil at all – it totally wreaked of gas.

Next day, the new compression gauge seemed to work a lot better right out of the gate but it was still a little troublesome because the battery would drop from 12.7x to 12.4x after a few tests and we were charging frequently - I kind of figured it out by doing all four cylinders and noticing that by the cylinder 4 (passenger side), it was unusually low but if battery charged, cylinder 4 tested better. So was charging in between testes whenever the battery read below 12.6. Anyway, we managed to get 130ish to 145ish psi consistently on all dry (cold) cylinders with probably less than optimal time cranking (trying to save battery). I know this is low but we got that after cranking 5-6 seconds and I think there was a little more room for upside had we cranked longer. Did not do a wet test because concerned the battery would crap out.

Also BTW, even though the fuel pump relay had been disconnected for days and the cylinders appear dry, there is a strong gas odor whenever we did the compression tests (the Mrs. complained about that too!). Suspected the injectors were still leaking residual gas.

I think we may just be okay but it has been a doubtful process the past few nights and we are not out of the woods yet. However, we are REALLY OKAY that we did not blow ourselves up with the starting fluid since there was about 5+ ounces of gas in the cylinder 3. For that, I am thankful and lucky.

So we plan to order 4 new fuel injectors (about $110) and install them before trying to fire up the car. There are no visible fuel leaks or tell-tale clean areas on or near the rail, injectors or fuel lines. Fuel filter is new. I have not changed injectors before (give me a carb!) but I will take it in if I have ANY doubts about safety.

If anyone has any thoughts, please chime in. Thanks.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:32 AM   #20
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we chased two problems on two different cars. The lower pulley was not timed to the cams and therefore the crank sensor was firing incorrectly and it would not start. Once we pulled to cam cover and got the lower pulley timed correctly it started right up. The other car had a break in the wire from the crank sensor to the PCM. We checked with a continuity tester. I just made a new wire from the sensor to the PCm and jump soldered to the correct terminals.
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