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Old 06-26-2019, 06:27 AM   #1
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auto gearbox 4F27e no second gear

hi,
my daughter bought a real peach, it's a 2003 focus 1.6 zetec auto, genuine 40,000 miles, clean as clean can be, full service history etc, but it has a gearbox problem.
fault code: PO732, incorrect gear 2 ratio. there are no other codes, everything works just dandy except we have no second gear. it doesn't work manually nor will it shift into 2nd from drive. if overdrive is switched off the car jumps from first to third and drives really nicely as it should.
reverse works fine.
i took the gearbox sump off and replaced the filter and the infamous shift solenoid "A" at the hefty ford price of 100 just for the one. the oil was in real good condition, as was the filter, but as a matter of course i dumped them for new and topped up.
i reset the codes, took it for a spin and it's no different.
the gearbox warning light comes on when the issue occurs but as soon as i turn the engine off it goes out and only returns when it tries to go in second and fails.
i decided to manually test the solenoid i took off by putting 12 volts through the body and the spade connector, absolutely nothing happened. i expected it would work the plunger if it were okay but not a thing, therefore my guess is that was faulty.
i stuck the code reader on when i went for a drive and i know that solenoid "A" is now working as i watched it switching on and off.
solenoid "B" didn't appear to do anything whilst driving forward, i kept my eye on it and it didn't move, however i know it switches on when one uses reverse so my thinking is that it is probably okay, my next task today is to confirm that by reversing up the driveway whilst monitoring the situation.

so, on to my question now the backstory is set;
if the solenoids are not at fault, what is the likely direction one should start looking from here?
I have no issue with stripping the whole box to it's last nut and bolt if necessary, i have done so on many cars and motorbikes in the past including my beloved GTO, therefore nuts and bolts instil no fear; i feel i am competent enough to deal with this, especially after finding a manual for doing so.

I just need ideas from someone that has experienced this issue previously as to which parts can cause this problem. it's the first focus i have ever worked on.
I have researched online and the best i found was "it could be internal parts..." which tells me nothing to be fair, which internal parts? i pondered, but alas found no answer.

after code reset it also came up with the code p1000 or something similar which just meant the codes had been reset and the car had not yet gone through it's full cycle.


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Old 06-26-2019, 10:53 AM   #2
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update:

i took the car for another run today, according to the scan all of the solenoids are working fine with no errors occuring in them. the car still doesn't go into second, i'm thinking it is second and overdrive thats the issue so possibly a band playing up? still no other fault codes other than PO732. if anyone else has experienced this issue i would welcome some input to confirm or negate my hypothesis.
if i am correct and there is at least one other person that has experienced this issue then if i could pick your brains as to associated parts one might need on top of a new band, ie seals, gaskets, springs, rods pistons etc i would be eternally grateful.
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Old 06-26-2019, 10:54 AM   #3
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....

Last edited by bumpety bump; 06-26-2019 at 10:55 AM. Reason: it put the same message up twice...
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Old 06-26-2019, 02:40 PM   #4
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You need a working band to get 2 and 4.

Band can be cracked or broken completely or the servo to it which has some getting a loose pin in the piston to not work either.

Servo is above VB which means VB and mechanical linkage rod have to come off after pan. Note VB has 2 seals on its' top, one is to servo and that blown out could do it too but rarely.

Band harder but accessible by dropping driver end of trans way down to expose the driver end cover of trans which comes off and the band right there. Back off the external case bolt on one end of band and it comes out.

Solenoid A not even used in second at all, it is off. Sol. E is the only one on in second.

Last edited by amc49; 06-26-2019 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
You need a working band to get 2 and 4.

Band can be cracked or broken completely or the servo to it which has some getting a loose pin in the piston to not work either.

Servo is above VB which means VB and mechanical linkage rod have to come off after pan. Note VB has 2 seals on its' top, one is to servo and that blown out could do it too but rarely.

Band harder but accessible by dropping driver end of trans way down to expose the driver end cover of trans which comes off and the band right there. Back off the external case bolt on one end of band and it comes out.
thank you for responding, seems i may be looking in the right direction then...
i guess it will be drop the pan, solenoid block then the vb next.
i did get a haynes manual because in the olden days they used to give a complete breakdown of gearbox parts. most disappointed to see "gearboxes are complex, take it to a dealer or gearbox specialist..." so that was not worth the money or effort. i have a parts diagram with key but that doesn't really show what has to come off to get to each component, it's a little bit of savvy mixed with a touch of guessing, so thanks for the heads up on the extra bits, at least i can look at my parts list and start to make sense of it that way.
are there any specific "measured points" such as critical gaps or tensions (other than the usual torque settings) than one need be aware of? such as using feeler guages to set components, setting spring tensions etc?
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
You need a working band to get 2 and 4.



Solenoid A not even used in second at all, it is off. Sol. E is the only one on in second.
i noticed after the fact... shows one should never trust everything you read on the internet... i'm sure i've heard that somewhere before...
it was my own stupid fault for not setting my scanner up properly when i did the first test, i merely trusted what i had read many times over. still, she has a spare solenoid "A" or "B" to put in a box for later use if need be...
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:43 PM   #7
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If the band gets changed or even the servo piston for the rod the band adjustment may need to be redone. The 'external case bolt' I mentioned to release one end of band is actually a specialty bolt that comes in more than one length (5 IIRC) determined by the number on the top of part. You can try the original bolt but if any slip occurs you may need a new one.

You can make up your own bolt there and too long to then have an oldschool band setting, it torques in to 45 inch-pounds then backs off exactly 3 1/2 turns to be correct.
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Fix the driver first, then fixing the car becomes so much easier..........
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:53 PM   #8
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https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/fo...bly/transaxle/

Go WAY down to step 79 there and look. Top bolt is the tool and bottom is the bolt that comes in trans. Make up a bolt like the tool with a nut and then that one part adjusts. I seal them with a copper washer, all parts begin in a well equipped hardware store. The bolt must have the end ground carefully to match the original configuration and most especially the very tip, as any sharp corner can crack end of band again. I sanded mine smooth when done.

Steps just above 79 tell you how to set it.
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Last edited by amc49; 06-26-2019 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
If the band gets changed or even the servo piston for the rod the band adjustment may need to be redone. The 'external case bolt' I mentioned to release one end of band is actually a specialty bolt that comes in more than one length (5 IIRC) determined by the number on the top of part. You can try the original bolt but if any slip occurs you may need a new one.

You can make up your own bolt there and too long to then have an oldschool band setting, it torques in to 45 inch-pounds then backs off exactly 3 1/2 turns to be correct.
thank you very much, that's exactly the kind of information i'm looking for. you are a star!

i shall post upon my success or failure, you never know, there may well be someone in the same situation that could do with this kind of information too. i've spent days trawling the net for this!
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:00 PM   #10
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Higher up same web page shows the reverse of removing VB, like the manual lever shaft on step 39, the servo cover with 3 bolts is covered by it and shown in step 36.

I forgot to point out the 2 accumulator pistons that drop out when the VB is removed and shown in step 45, they and their respective springs must go back in the correct spots.
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Last edited by amc49; 06-26-2019 at 04:05 PM.
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