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Old 06-11-2019, 10:22 AM   #1
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Shuddering/shaking from a stop.

My car has developed a shake or shudder. It's only when in 1st and reverse. Starting from a stop. I've always drivin it the same way. I've experimented with handling the clutch in different ways with little change.
I've tried the 5th at 30mph test and it bogs, like it should.
So I don't believe its transmission/clutch related. Well it better not be any way. The clutch was replaced a year ago with a single mass flywheel.conversion was done.
It's fine after the car getting moving. But if i suddenly hit the throttle and let off the car will kind of rock forwards and backwards. I do suspect the torque mount may play a factor. Shouldn't it be more flat/parallel to the ground? Mine is more nose down. It just doesnt look correct to me.

I replaced both front axles (both were clicking pretty bad) a few weeks ago and no leaks. Now i have a sudden leak on the passenger axle seal.

The clutch master cylinder is also leaking.

These two issue probably arent related to the shaking but i figured it's worth mentioning.

Can a bad motor/transmission/torque mount possibly cause the shuddering? Both motor(passenger side) and torque mounts were replaced last year. But they were pretty low grade so I wasnt expecting them to last long.

Any insight or suggestions on other things to look at Are all welcome and appreciated.
Thank you.


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Old 06-11-2019, 10:29 AM   #2
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If your dog bone is pointing nose down, means your motor/trans mounts are shot and motor is sitting too low. Buy Motorcraft mounts
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:38 AM   #3
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Thank you for the quick reply.
I knew these werent going to last long.

That's what i was thinking after looking at the mounts.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:11 AM   #4
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These motor mounts are a bad design and go out frequently. The Motorcraft last the longest, but still not great
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:31 AM   #5
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That's what im understanding by the little searching I've done so far. Seems to be a common deal. Similar to the clutch master cylinder.

Both seem to be a wear/tear part. Almost like a longer term maintenance part.
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:59 AM   #6
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What happens when you stupidly design the engine/trans to be hung from the top to swing freely and then provide NOTHING to prevent the entire bottom half of engine (2/3 of the length there) from moving all over the place because the rotation restrictor is way over to one side.
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Old 06-14-2019, 06:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
My car has developed a shake or shudder. It's only when in 1st and reverse. Starting from a stop.

The clutch was replaced a year ago with a single mass flywheel.conversion was done.
It's fine after the car getting moving.
From all the things you mentioned the most likely is the clutch (chatter). I know it was replaced a year ago. What brand was used?

I had a worn dogbone mount in my 02 wagon 5-speed - it was a bit noisy (light clunk) when the clutch was disengaged/engaged but didnt cause shudder. Its very easy to remove to inspect.

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Last edited by Paul1958; 06-14-2019 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:38 PM   #8
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Thank you for the reply.
To be honest i don't know for sure. I had to pay a shop to do the clutch replacement...i have no idea how to replace a clutch plus I have no where to do the job or time. They did a single mass fly wheel conversion. I know there was a warranty. But its limited by time and mileage. I believe I may be at the edge of it or just out of warranty. Ill have to call the shop that did the work. The paperwork is in one of at least eight different boxes (I hate moving). I paid more than i should have looking back at the whole deal. But they replaced the axles, shaft seals, lines to/from the master cylinder, the master cylinder (it was leaking before the clutch went completely out).
But I had to go back several times for various reasons. I dont know if it was just bad luck on my part, inferior parts, or if they could have used wrong parts (would it matter if they had used parts for a zetec powered car in my duratec power car?).
The last thing I want to do is go through that all over again. I don't know if i could afford that one, financially or mentally.
Ive heard the term "clutch chatter". But didnt look into it. What can be done to fix it? Does the clutch need to be replaced? Will it hurt anything to keep driving as is?

I was hoping it wasn't anything to do with the transmission ...
If i have to pay out of pocket..then Idk. I love this car. It has its quirks. But to handle 70,000 miles in one year doing two delivery jobs is a big deal in my opinion. I've gone through several cars. This one by far handles it the best. Even at 230,000ish miles.

Is one band prone/known for clutch chatter more so than another brand?
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Old 06-15-2019, 04:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
Thank you for the reply.
To be honest i don't know for sure. I had to pay a shop to do the clutch replacement...i have no idea how to replace a clutch plus I have no where to do the job or time. They did a single mass fly wheel conversion. I know there was a warranty. But its limited by time and mileage. I believe I may be at the edge of it or just out of warranty. Ill have to call the shop that did the work. The paperwork is in one of at least eight different boxes (I hate moving). I paid more than i should have looking back at the whole deal. But they replaced the axles, shaft seals, lines to/from the master cylinder, the master cylinder (it was leaking before the clutch went completely out).
But I had to go back several times for various reasons. I dont know if it was just bad luck on my part, inferior parts, or if they could have used wrong parts (would it matter if they had used parts for a zetec powered car in my duratec power car?).
The last thing I want to do is go through that all over again. I don't know if i could afford that one, financially or mentally.
Ive heard the term "clutch chatter". But didnt look into it. What can be done to fix it? Does the clutch need to be replaced? Will it hurt anything to keep driving as is?

I was hoping it wasn't anything to do with the transmission ...
If i have to pay out of pocket..then Idk. I love this car. It has its quirks. But to handle 70,000 miles in one year doing two delivery jobs is a big deal in my opinion. I've gone through several cars. This one by far handles it the best. Even at 230,000ish miles.

Is one band prone/known for clutch chatter more so than another brand?
Clutch replacement is a 'big' job and requires the transmission to be removed. It can be done by a somewhat experienced 'driveway' mechanic.

If what you have is clutch chatter (intermittent rapid slippage of the clutch) it will not get better. It can cause collateral damage to the drivetrain/transmission. I dont know much about the quality (or lack of) of aftermarket clutch componenets for Focus (Im not saying there arent good aftermarket parts out there). I will say that if I am installing a new clutch in my Focus I would install an OEM Ford clutch kit (PP, disk, slave) and OEM Ford flywheel.

Paul
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