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Old 03-18-2019, 06:32 PM   #1
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Doing rear spindle axles, drums and brakes.

So I'm driving to work Wednesday. I start to hear a slight grinding. I start to notice also my car is handling funky. I pull over and think it is the right rear brake has come partially apart but that something else is wrong due to the handling. I rent a U Haul car trailer and go get it with my truck. Upon inspection, it is the stub axle bearing on the right side. Looked it up and I might as well do both them, new drums, and new brake shoes since it has dawned on my (this is one of my two cars, and three trucks) that I have not done rear brakes on this car since I got it five years ago. Sooo, has anyone done this and have any tips? I have a full pro mechanics set of tools and four jacks and jack stands and all that I need but I was going to hose down the bolst and nuts first a day before with penetrating oil first.


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Old 03-18-2019, 06:36 PM   #2
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My passenger side rear wheel bearing went bad. It had a rough sound and vibration I still drove it for a little bit. The bearing had seized to the spindle. I had to replace the spindle, the drum which had the wheel bearing pressed in it, and the ABS speed ring. I used OEM parts. 2010 focus.
Even with a puller I could not separate the drum from the spindle complete seizure.

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Old 03-18-2019, 06:43 PM   #3
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I'm sure mine is bad enough to need both the drum, and spindle replaced. I might as well as the car now has 160K hiway ,miles on it.
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:45 PM   #4
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I'm sure mine is bad enough to need both the drum, and spindle replaced. I might as well as the car now has 160K hiway ,miles on it.
My brother has a 2005 ZX3 with 250,000 plus miles his car has needed nothing in the rear. So no need to replace both unless you want to/ need to. If you have abs just make sure you unbolt the sensor from the spindle first, so you don't damage the sensor like I did and have to replace it.

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Old 03-19-2019, 12:16 AM   #5
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Found we had multiple lugs seized on our 2007, after we took it in for a leaky tire and were told the shop couldn't get the wheel off.

After trying everything to loosen the lugs, I ended up drilling out the existing studs to get both rear wheels off. The recessed pockets on the alloy wheels make it difficult to get a grip on the lugs.

I did have to remove part of the interior console to back off the adjuster on the parking brake lever to get the drums off.

I bought new drums/pads/lug nuts and re-installed. I used anti-seize compound on all the studs to avoid this situation in the future!
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Old 03-19-2019, 10:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I'm sure mine is bad enough to need both the drum, and spindle replaced. I might as well as the car now has 160K hiway ,miles on it.
Did you try heating the inner bearing race to get it off the spindle?
Or another method is using a cutting wheel to slice the race diagonally, then use a chisel in the slice to loosen it up, and remove it with channel locks

If you have drum brakes, perhaps it is easier to find a new spindle for it, but for disk brake cars like the svt, spindles are hard to come by, so we try to save and re-use them if at all possible.
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Old 03-20-2019, 09:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
So I'm driving to work Wednesday. I start to hear a slight grinding. I start to notice also my car is handling funky. I pull over and think it is the right rear brake has come partially apart but that something else is wrong due to the handling. I rent a U Haul car trailer and go get it with my truck. Upon inspection, it is the stub axle bearing on the right side. Looked it up and I might as well do both them, new drums, and new brake shoes since it has dawned on my (this is one of my two cars, and three trucks) that I have not done rear brakes on this car since I got it five years ago. Sooo, has anyone done this and have any tips? I have a full pro mechanics set of tools and four jacks and jack stands and all that I need but I was going to hose down the bolst and nuts first a day before with penetrating oil first.
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You probably dont need to replace the spindle and they can be very difficult to remove from the rear trailing arm as the 4 bolts that hold it to the arm usually seize in the spindle - at least they do in the rust belt. In NM where you are maybe thats not an issue but unless the spindle is clearly damaged I would leave it alone. The wheel bearing is pressed into the brake drum. You can replace the wheel bearing with a quality bearing and reuse the drum if you have a press, or a 'hub tamer' tool set. Generally most auto parts stores sell new drums with the wheel bearing already installed so you just install the assembly onto your existing spindle. Keep in mind though that most of these drum/bearing assemblies, while inexpensive, use very 'cheap' bearings that dont last very long. YMMV.

Good luck
Paul
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Old 06-13-2019, 09:40 AM   #8
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Since we're kinda in this topic, what does everybody recommend for rear drums? Raybestos, Durago? Thoughts?
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:16 AM   #9
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They are drums, you get what the local store has in stock becuase not worth shipping that.

There are some "performance" shoes that are available that I looked at for a while before just converting to Disc.
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:16 AM   #10
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They are drums, you get what the local store has in stock becuase not worth shipping that.

There are some "performance" shoes that are available that I looked at for a while before just converting to Disc.
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