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Old 02-03-2019, 02:14 PM   #1
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Easy Duratec Thermostat replacement.

So after reading a few threads and watching several useless YouTube videos I decided to tackle the thermostat on my 06 ZX3 with a 2.0 Duratec. Here's what I did: On a cold car. Disconnect battery. Remove grill. Remove passenger side(USA) headlight. Place pan under thermostat. Remove cap from overflow tank. Using a ratchet with a 5 inch long 1/4 " extension and a 8mm socket loosen completely but do not remove the 3 8mm bolts. Standing at the passenger side fender, with your right hand,gently pull the thermostat housing away from the engine until you can reach down with your left hand and remove the bolts. Pull thermostat with hoses out until you can pivot the assembly towards the headlight opening. Remove clamps and slide back on the hoses. Note where the witness mark on the hoses are oriented on the thermostat. Mark if missing. Pull hoses off. I used a seal tool to loosen up the hoses a little before they would slide off. Place hoses on new thermostat. Do not clamp. Insert thermostat into block. Check hoses for pinching. If everything is ok pull everything back out and reinstall the hose clamps. Place the thermostat back into position. Move to the passenger side front fender. Gently pull housing back with your right hand and place the 3 bolts in the housing with your left hand. Ease the housing back into the block. I was able to use the extension and socket only to start each bolt a few threads while holding the lower hose at the top to line everything up. Tighten the 3 bolts to 89 inch pounds. Fill overflow tank and start engine. Add coolant to full line. If nothing is leaking reinstall headlight and grill. I did everything without jacking up the car. Headlight has 3 bolts. 2 on top, 1 inside the fender. I was able to reach inside from behind the headlight to access this bolt. I used a Duralast 51280 thermostat with no sensor. Ford only sells the thermostat with the sensor. At least that's what I was told by the parts guy when we searched by VIN#. The Duralst has a bleeder valve. Whole job took 35 minutes start to finish.


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Old 02-03-2019, 07:21 PM   #2
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I used a Duralast 51280 thermostat with no sensor. Ford only sells the thermostat with the sensor. At least that's what I was told by the parts guy when we searched by VIN#.
pb,
Great job/post! Im waiting for warmer weather to do this on my 05 ZX4 (Im getting 'adequate' heat for now).

The Ford thermostat without the sensor is:
Motorcraft RT1193 / Ford 3M4Z8575B ($26 + ship from RA).

Not sure why the dealer VIN search didnt come up with this part.

Paul
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Last edited by Paul1958; 02-03-2019 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:34 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by pbfoot View Post
I used a Duralast 51280 thermostat with no sensor. Ford only sells the thermostat with the sensor. At least that's what I was told by the parts guy when we searched by VIN#.
pb,
Great job/post! Im waiting for warmer weather to do this on my 05 ZX4 (Im getting 'adequate' heat for now).

The Ford thermostat without the sensor is:
Motorcraft RT1193 / Ford 3M4Z8575B ($26 + ship from RA).

Not sure why the dealer VIN search didnt come up with this part.

Paul
Thank you. Appreciate the part#.
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Old 02-03-2019, 09:37 PM   #4
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Great post & job...
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Old 02-04-2019, 04:47 AM   #5
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Great post & job...
Thanks. If I can save someone a little misery life is good.
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Old 02-16-2019, 06:11 PM   #6
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I did the thermostat on our 2005 2.0 today. I watched a few you tube videos on the process - some people pull the headlight, some pull the belt then the PS pump. I was able to make it work without removing either. My process was similar but a little different:

1. Disconnected wiring connections to AC and the connector immediately to the right of the thermostat housing.
2. Place drain pan under car.
3. Using angled needle nose pliers (a must!), I moved the hose clamp on the upper smaller diameter hose and pulled it loose.
4. Remove the 3 - 8mm bolts. It helps to have a telescoping magnet to catch the bolts when you loosen them.
5. Pull housing loose with the larger hose still attached and place it so you have good access to larger hose to move clamp.
6. Remove hose and install new housing/stat in reverse order.

I have larger hands and was still able to make it work without removing any additional equipment. 1/4" rachet with 5" wobble extension made it a breeze. Car fully warms up now which will be great next time we get another polar vortex with -25 degree mornings!
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Old 10-18-2019, 04:48 AM   #7
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Just pulled this headache and miracle off the yesterday. Just in time for winter. Like you guys, several Youtube videos and many threads later. Was able to do the job with little profanity...ok lots of profanity. But I did it. Pulled the headlight out and that really is the best way to attack it. Only hiccup was the stupid thermostat I bought from 1a auto. Idiots sent me one with a sensor. A 40 min bike ride to and from Autozone and a Duralast 52180 thermostat finished it off. Happy car, happy life. Heat working great BTW!! To everyone who informed me to get it done right, cheers!
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Old 10-18-2019, 08:14 AM   #8
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Just pulled this headache and miracle off the yesterday. Just in time for winter. Like you guys, several Youtube videos and many threads later. Was able to do the job with little profanity...ok lots of profanity. But I did it. Pulled the headlight out and that really is the best way to attack it. Only hiccup was the stupid thermostat I bought from 1a auto. Idiots sent me one with a sensor. A 40 min bike ride to and from Autozone and a Duralast 52180 thermostat finished it off. Happy car, happy life. Heat working great BTW!! To everyone who informed me to get it done right, cheers!
Glad you were able to.fix it. Enjoy!
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