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Old 09-30-2018, 02:32 PM   #1
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Issues after alt replacement

I'll try to be as concise as possible:

2002 ZTS, 150k miles

Alternator failed last week, about 1/2 mile after leaving my driveway, I was able to turn around and make it back. Car had been running great up to that point.

Ordered rebuilt alt from RA, MOTORCRAFT GL8881RM. After installing, voltage back up within range, but idle is not right - stumbling a bit and rough, minor surging. Checked all connections and vac lines that were in the area of alt nothing out of sorts.

On highway, car runs smooth. Maybe just needs to relearn? Sitting in traffic, I notice my temp gauge starts to creep past straight up "norm" position. I recently replaced the entire fan assembly after melting through several of the cooling harness connectors that plug into the fan t-stat.

I check all of the connectors - not melted- and after letting the engine idle in my driveway, the fan kicks on at the appropriate time.

Drive car the next day and all is fine, and the start-up idle seems back to normal. Then the CEL comes on mid drive at a stop light.

I have one of those ELM327 OBD2 interfaces and so I go to retrieve the DTC. With 3 different apps (iPad) I cannot connect to the vehicle. I test the interface on my Fusion and it works fine with the same apps. Fuses all look good related to OBD2/ engine computer.

I use the hidden menu on the odo screen to check codes - no stored codes! CEL is still it!

Just now messing around with the ELM327 dongle again trying to get it to work, I start car and CEL is NOT lit, but engine is back to stumbling idle!!

I'm not sure what to do next?


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Old 10-01-2018, 02:23 PM   #2
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Charge the battery after a load test, or before, since the loadtest will require it. The cars do all sorts of freaky things if you killed the alt to then kill the battery too. The quickest way to destroy that new alt is by using it to recharge your dead battery; it takes 8 hours time to do it. Meanwhile the car will act crazy.

Driving with a dead battery to begin with is the most common way to kill theses alts there is anyway. They don't take it well at ALL. May have already torched your new one, it happens all the time.
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Old 10-01-2018, 05:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Charge the battery after a load test, or before, since the loadtest will require it. The cars do all sorts of freaky things if you killed the alt to then kill the battery too. The quickest way to destroy that new alt is by using it to recharge your dead battery; it takes 8 hours time to do it. Meanwhile the car will act crazy.

Driving with a dead battery to begin with is the most common way to kill theses alts there is anyway. They don't take it well at ALL. May have already torched your new one, it happens all the time.
Thanks for the reply! Yes, I'm aware of that whole battery/alt issue. The first thing I did when I limped home after the alt started to die was put the battery on a charger overnight. Then I tested the voltage using one of those cig lighter readers and only saw 11.5 volts after running the car for about 2-3 minutes. Replaced the alt and the battery should have been fully charged on start-up.

Right now I'm trying to figure out why my OBD port is not working. No pins are pushed in, no fuses are out, its powering up the ELM327 interface and all the lights are flashing on it while the app tries to connect, then I just get a failure to connect error message.

But yeah, I'm going to test the battery and see if it's still in range.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:39 PM   #4
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Failure to connect error message??? Can you be more specific? What OBD2 adapter? What app?
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenintiesc View Post
Replaced the alt and the battery should have been fully charged on start-up.
What was the battery voltage just before you started it up?

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Old 10-01-2018, 08:55 PM   #6
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What was the battery voltage just before you started it up?

Paul
I didn't write it down but I'm pretty sure it was 12.5v.
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Old 10-01-2018, 08:57 PM   #7
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Does the alternator charge now?

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Old 10-01-2018, 09:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sykozis View Post
Failure to connect error message??? Can you be more specific? What OBD2 adapter? What app?
The adapter is from Amazon, Kobra OBD2 wifi ELM327. Using iPad and iPhone. The three apps I tried were EOBD-Facile, Auto Doctor, and iOBD2. All three apps say failed to connect to device. The EOBD-Facile app "seems" to connect for a nano-second and then disconnect...

On my 2009 Fusion everything above works as it should.
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Does the alternator charge now?

Paul
Yes. Earlier today it was showing 14 volts steady driving via plug in volt reader.

The CEL is off now, but probably because I pulled a few of the engine computer fuses to check them and it reset. Hasn't come back on. Left car iding in my driveway for 20 minutes and temp gauge held steady in norm range. Car driving fine.

Maybe everything resolved itself except for the OBD port. This will be a problem next time I go for inspection - in NJ all you need to pass inspection is no CEL and a quick "all clear" after they plug into your OBD port to make sure it is system ready.
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joenintiesc View Post
This will be a problem next time I go for inspection - in NJ all you need to pass inspection is no CEL and a quick "all clear" after they plug into your OBD port to make sure it is system ready.
All monitors must be complete as well.

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