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Old 08-12-2018, 02:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordNLNR View Post
I'm not familiar enough with the specifics on that engine but yes generally, it's a MAP system that will idle higher with a leak, not a MAF system. Yes, you can monitor STFT1 and LTFT1 with ForScan.

So, IAC unplugged your idle is 980, and then plugging it in jumped it to 1238? Have you taken the IAC off to inspect clean it? Perhaps it isn't fully closing.
The IAC is new but it's an aftermarket part from China so could be defective or not match the vehicle. Dunno. It was different as the connector was straight instead of at a 90 degree angle. Bolted up other than that though.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:31 PM   #12
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The highest the stft I saw at idle was 4.69% but it seems to fluctuate between -0.78 and 1.56% for the most part.

Ltft is 6.25. It has been slowly climbing with the car on for a while.

Also it looks like the ECU is learning the proper idle because it is hovering around 830 now.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:56 PM   #13
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Maybe I didn't have it heated up enough before but I pulled the IAC again and it dropped down to 300rpm and stalled. So I put the screw back in about where it was before and rpms went up to about 600. I stopped there for now. Doesn't look too far off from where its supposed to be I don't think.

I may still have a vacuum leak though, I dunno.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:05 PM   #14
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Went for a drive. Ltft dropped to less than 1. However car was idling at around 2000rpm when I stopped. ECU tried to lower rpms I guess and it just died. Restarted and it's at 700rpm again.

So I guess the IAC is sticking?
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Old 08-13-2018, 04:28 AM   #15
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How has the IAC been sealed when reinstalled? Could be an issue there. Reusing same gasket there is a mistake.

Pretty much ALL engines that are EFI a vacuum leak at first idles HIGHER until the idle fuel trim runs out, then the idle will drop lower as the engine starves of fuel. Often then the idle will go into the classic seesaw thing or 'rRRr, rRRr, rRRr' behavior as the engine leans then slows to richen then speeds up to lean, etc. Higher idle to get past the 1 volt TPS signals engine is off idle and then the higher speed fuel map interchanges for the pure idle one and engine then idles higher as the higher map has far more fuel allotted to it than the idle map, which hits limit pretty easy.

Went to Rock Auto to look at IACs, the straight one mentioned seems to be geared toward the DOHC motor while the one with connector at 90 degrees is for the SPI, could be an issue there of wrong part.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:12 AM   #16
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It came with a new gasket. I'm not sure if there is anything different about the 2 parts other than the angle of the connector. Not sure how I would find out. I may have saved the old one and could bolt back in (don't even know if it was defective. Replaced it when I had idle issues before).

Also, don't know if this is related or a separate issue but the car has been having issues with moderate/hard acceleration. Usually it's fine but sometimes it seems to choke to the point the engine feels like it's going to stall then suddenly there is a kick and it accelerates normally. Would this be indicative of a vacuum leak as well? Seems to be running lean, though I read it could also be spark blow out. Maybe a clogged cat too though I would think it would be more consistent?

Car has new plugs and wires and new fuel pump and filter. Also refurb fuel injectors (one was dead previously).

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Old 08-13-2018, 10:34 PM   #17
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If the new gasket got used once and then again it is no longer new.........the IAC connector matters not one whit, what does is the IAC absolute metering and they can change radically and look exactly the same on the outside. Some default to full shut at power off and some stay open in varying amounts due to design. The springs doing that greatly affect the amount of dither the IAC pintle uses to move (and stay) the exact amounts needed to idle correctly. Some use a vacuum assist and lock and some don't as well, need the type matched to the software values there.

'...then suddenly there is a kick and it accelerates normally.'

Normal, they go into open loop past a certain amount of throttle demand (TPS swing) and then the engine gets a sudden rush of power from that, you see it a lot in hot weather and even more with a/c on.
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Old 08-14-2018, 04:49 PM   #18
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The gasket was only used once. Thinking I should just buy a new IAC that is the correct part.
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Old 08-14-2018, 06:30 PM   #19
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X2, if the gasket was a paper one, then you keep the rubber gasket that was originally used and under the new paper one, it seals better. The paper is flimsy enough that with the rubber shaped o-ring gone it can slip into the groove there to not seal, they often do not have much edge overlap. Leaving the rubber in place as a groove stuffer helps the paper one to seal.

May well have the wrong IAC there.
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Old 08-16-2018, 01:49 PM   #20
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I went ahead and bought a new gasket and put back on the old IAC. It seems to work much better. Idle is normal now and it doesn't try to accelerate like it did before with my foot off the gas. Seems like it was the incorrect part and the valve was more open than the computer thought it was.

It still didn't solve my hesitation issue but I'm going to start a new thread because the idle problem has been solved.
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