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Old 07-16-2018, 02:37 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
130s? Operating temp for our engines is 210. Fans come on probably around 215-230.
Mistyped. 230s then 240s I thought I read normal is like 207 then 220 or so ?

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Old 07-16-2018, 02:38 AM   #22
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130s? Operating temp for our engines is 210. Fans come on probably around 215-230.
My Z code 2.3 has a 180 Tstat.

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Old 07-16-2018, 03:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
You haven't told us how many miles are on the motor.

Try for free first:
Take the accessory belt off and check for imperfection/ drag from any of the pullies.

Feel by hand (if your hands are calloused enough) all of the different coolant hoses looking for a very very hot one compared to the rest of them.
Wherever that hose is trying to supply coolant, is your clogged component.

If you're not able to handle hot things with your whole hand, you can source a touchless thermometer from someone, or just buy a cheap one.
Even the cheap ones are accurate enough for checking coolant lines.

If you lose absolutely no coolant at all ever, then you shouldn't need a new cap, expansion tank, or hose.





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Old 07-16-2018, 03:13 AM   #24
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And, first purchase I would try, if it's old, would be a new accessory belt.

Don't buy an Autozone one or any off brand nonsense.
If you have some no-name brand belt on the car now, blame that first and foremost.
Use Gates belts only.
Duralast and all that other crap often end up being too big, thus, not turning the accessories properly.

Someone may argue that they run no-name belts with no issue, but, I have personally tried and had to immediately remove Duralast and other no-name ones off of my car because, from brand new, they would squeal on start up.

Failing tensioner can cause your exact same issue.
As spring pressure weakens over time, the belt can slip without making any noise.

You never happened to start the car in freezing temps whilst having only water in it, did ya?

Good luck.

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No never been in freezing.

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Old 07-18-2018, 12:42 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
'...had to turn air off...'

Your killing.

Why haven't you changed the stat by this late in the game? It's silly to risk an engine on that. That kind of short-sighted thinking is how most of them end up in the scrapyards.
It's FIXED !!! NEVER WAS OVERHEATING.
CHT was bad. Replaced with new Ford updated part. Took unopened Tstat and coolant back.
CHT was giving FALSE READINGS.
Drove for hours with ice cold air on...only goes up to almost half way.

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Old 07-25-2018, 05:31 PM   #26
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Update....brittle connector replaced. Full on soldered , heat shrink , and silicone job as per Fordtechmakuloco. DO NOT buy Ford connector kit for $44. Get the NAPA one for $8.
Use Hi-Temp silicone on boot to head interface. Keeps moisture out for a happy connection.

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Last edited by joeblo1999; 07-26-2018 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:17 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by joeblo1999 View Post
Update....brittle connector replaced. Full on soldered , heat shrink , and silicone job as per Fordtechmakuloco. DO NOT buy Ford connector kit for $44. Get the NAPA one for $8.
Use Hi-Temp silicone on boot to head interface. Keeps moisture out for a happy connection.

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Disaster strikes....temp shoots into red , engine goes into limp home mode !!!
Look at what broke ! GD Ford and their plastic T.
Replaced with brass T from Home Depot.
And while fixing it I cracked the hard plastic line from radiator hose to de-gas bottle and fixed that too. Was 110 out and was NOT happy !
Head gasket fine...runs great again. Shut it right off when it let go. BTW Ford wanted $108 for the whole hose and T assembly. F that.

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Can anyone tell me what code may be stored now ?

Last edited by joeblo1999; 08-07-2018 at 02:21 AM.
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