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Old 05-23-2018, 09:34 AM   #1
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Need some guidance, electrical issues. Multiple codes

My car started running wierd this morning.
After starting, rpms would rise and fall several times but then lower to idle rpms.
At lower rpms it seemed to bog kind of but ran fine about say 2000 rpms.

I am also experiencing a charging issue. Replaced the alternator twice in two days. Both remanufactured. Also replaced the battery. The battery and alternator both repeatedly test good. But while using the torque app to watch the voltage, it fluctuates a lot more than the original alternator. It will drop from 14.0 to around 13.6/13.7 while driving. Idling it had dropped to 13.0 when I hold the car with the brakes and have headlights, heater, and flashers on. The volts will rise back to 13.8 to 14.0.


This all started after replacing the valve cover gasket. I've checked all connections several times.

The codes I'm getting from the torque app scan are
P0107
P0452
P0122
P1000
P1125
U1900

I hate electrical problems. I have no idea what is going on.
The first two are new. The p0122 showed up two days ago.

I need some help/guidance.

Thank you in advance


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Old 05-23-2018, 05:06 PM   #2
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After looking at it again and checking all of the connections...again.
If the power wire to the alternator is touching something like the engine block, could that cause issues?

Or maybe if some wires cracked while moving them around to replace the valve cover gasket?
I noticed all of the parts that are having issues are all on the same harness
If the harness cracked somewhere, can I use a harness from a 2.0l duratec?

I know of one 2.3l auto sedan at a local u pull it yard.
They also have a couple of 2.0l autos. Not sure if they have any manual trans 2.0ls though.

Mine is base 2.3l manual.
No power windows/locks/a.c..
I think the only thing it came with was a CD player. But that doesn't work. Lol

If it helps, The order of issues
1. Changed valve cover gasket.
2. Alternator failed, replaces
3. Replaced alternator for the 2nd time in 2 days (bad diode)
4. Multiple codes

I hope someone can maybe give some suggestions
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:25 PM   #3
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U1900 FORD - CAN Communication Bus Fault
Possible causes
-Faulty / intermittent ignition switch connections
-CAN Bus wiring intermittently open/shorted to power or ground
-Faulty / intermittent connection at PCM
-Faulty electrical connections at ABS Control Module Faulty electrical connections at the instrument cluster

P1000 is just a drive cycle indicator

P0452 - EVAP Pressure Sensor/Switch Low
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P1125 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Fault

all of these codes are following the same thing as your alternators blowing up.. it honestly sounds like theres a major wiring fault somewhere on the harness

to pop all those codes all of a sudden is very very uncommon unless the entire car was seriously voltage surged.. or a bad ground somewhere all those codes are all over the car and not limited to one spot

as for the power wire to the alternator against the engine block go to autozone and pickup corrugated wire sleeving/loom and sleeve the wire


my 2.0 duratec's alternator wires are in a loom attached to the back of the block
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:59 PM   #4
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Kind of an update here.
Thanks for the reply arcticmynx.

Today I swapped out the harness on top of the engine.
It had connectors for the alternator, coil packs, injectors, tps, iac, etc. And I also swapped the throttle body/tips.
both came from the same 2.3l auto car. But the hood was off so it was all exposed to the elements. So I'm note entirely positive that everything is good.
Was running great for about 30 minutes of driving. The charging issue seemed to be cured too. Then the p1125 came back. And a few hours later the charging issue came back but different.
The battery and alternator tested good. However the alternator tested good at 13.6v. 13.5v with the lights on and blower motor going.
It was at 14.0v previously to today.
Driving around it will show 13.6/13.7v on my torque app which read the same as the test voltage.
Could I have another bad harness?
Could the computer be bad and not show a code possibly?
Bad battery cables?
Could heat be a factor? It was a little warm today. 90's here.
I'm not sure if it matters but the alternator is a remanufactured unit. I mention this because ive heard of remanufactured parts not holding up well in other cases.
I'm at a loss here. But I have to fix it. Its my only car. It's been great so far. She takes a beating better than my trailblazer or envoy. And surprisingly does better in the snow too with winter tires on it.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:47 AM   #5
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I need some help here.
Can someone tell me if there is a common wire or some sort of common link between the alternator, fuel rail pressure sensor, and throttle position sensor?
The voltage stays around 13.5v it will climb to around 13 7v-13.9v when driving.
The code that pops most often are the p1122 and p1125.
There is a code for the fuel pressure sensor that pop every so often.
The car will run rough until I clear the codes, then it will run like normal.
Could an issue with the pcm cause issues with the tps fuel rail pressure sensor, and alternator?

The alternator tests good repeatedly as well as the battery.

Otherwise I'm guessing the is a short/wiring issue in the harness some where like arctic mynx said.

Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:22 AM   #6
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After reading another members post about alternator issues, I went out and unplugged the 3 wire connector and started the car. The voltage stayed around 13.1v-13.2v.
Should the voltage go up to 14 volts if it was something other than a alternator issue?
Is that pointing to yet another bad remanufactured alternator or something else like a wiring issue or pcm issue?
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:04 PM   #7
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Well I ran over to O'Reilly today. Used their scan tool.
I came up with more codes now.

B1318
B2433
B2438
B2434
B1869
C1947

I have no idea where to start.
I don't know if everything is related or seperate issue.
These codes weren't there when I scanned it with the same scanner at the beginning of the month.

I don't know if I should try adding/replacing/cleaning the battery cables or if the would even help?I
I know things carode over time.

Any help or advice is definitely appreciated
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
...This all started after replacing the valve cover gasket. I've checked all connections several times...
I believe that is your biggest clue into what is wrong now. Valve cover gasket replacement does force you to twist & turn the upper engine harness into a position it has never been during the life of the car. This can damage wiring inside of the harness and/or damage the physical relationship of female-to-male connector contact pins within any connector to another connector.

Could you please post a picture of your car engine? I am especially interested in seeing the passenger side of the engine, near the front strut. Looking for the wiring of the Ignition/RF filter capacitor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
...Then the p1125 came back. And a few hours later the charging issue came back but different.
The battery and alternator tested good. However the alternator tested good at 13.6v. 13.5v with the lights on and blower motor going.
It was at 14.0v previously to today...

...Could heat be a factor? It was a little warm today. 90's here....
You and I both own the same car, but mine is a wagon & an auto trans.

The charging system voltage on this car does change the voltage output based on outside temperature. Colder weather = higher voltage. Hotter weather = lower voltage.

Please check your system voltage again based on this info. You should notice it is 14.x volts in the early morning and lower in the afternoon; even 13.5V when hot outside.

(( Note: my car also has a special problem where it goes LOWER than 13.5 when hot outside. This is another subject and another thread. ))

Nothing you have posted indicates a charging system problem; especially based on what I have seen on my car and the unique behavior this year/model has. I have confirmed this odd behavior on a neighbors 2004 2.3 PZEV... about two years ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
...Can someone tell me if there is a common wire or some sort of common link between the alternator, fuel rail pressure sensor, and throttle position sensor?...
There is no common wire. At least not based on your situation, your symptoms. The Alt 3-wire pigtail DOES share a Hot wire. The other 2-wires of the Alt 3-wire goes ONLY to the PCM. The only thing in common, is the entire system power, which the Alt output provides to all systems/sensors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
After reading another members post about alternator issues, I went out and unplugged the 3 wire connector and started the car. The voltage stayed around 13.1v-13.2v.
Should the voltage go up to 14 volts if it was something other than a alternator issue?...
That is a good & a very unique test. I have never done that. That test would essentially take the Smart Charge system off-line. I would guess the voltage would have been higher. 13.5 to 14.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
...I don't know if I should try adding/replacing/cleaning the battery cables or if the would even help?
Definitely CLEAN any/all of the major power wires Hot and Ground. Adding an extra ground or two will not hurt. I have added two grounds on my car engine using store bought 4-gauge(?) battery cables (each about 8-inch and 12-inch) and each cheap at $10 or less. One is at the battery negative post to-> the car frame. The other is at the Alt body to-> the passenger side front strut mount (car frame ground).
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Last edited by Marde; 05-31-2018 at 02:28 AM.
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:52 AM   #9
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Marde, thanks for chiming in.

If someone can tell me how to post a picture, I'll post one.

I suspected the wiring harness right away which is why I picked up another one. But it came from the same 2.3l car that I got the valve cover off of. I might go back and get a 2nd wiring harness. Will one from a 2.0l d-tec work? For future reference, Will a 2.0l alternator work on my 2.3l? To me, everything appeares to be the same.

I did notice that my voltage was 13.7-14.0 when it was cooler in the mornings. It seems like it does go down as the air temp goes up and if my car has been running for a while.
Maybe an issue specific to the 2.3l PZEV?
Do you hace a factory alternator or a replacement (new or remanufactured)
From reading on here, remanufactured alternator don't seem to do well.

Maybe You can elaborate a little more on the special problem you referred to?

I will definitely be cleaning and possibly adding in a similar fashion as you have.

Btw, I'm a total sucker for wagons for some reason. Wish mine was a wagon. But I love the manual transmission and lack of options. It's less complicated.
No power windows/ locks, no a/c, no abs/ traction control
Basically no frills.

Thanks again
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnfocuszx3 View Post
...If someone can tell me how to post a picture, I'll post one...
I have no time or very little time. I will post back later.

Here is some info about posting pictures.

Hit the REPLY button and then a new window appears. This reply window includes tool widgets with icons at the top on the window. Use the tool icon that shows "a paper clip" and it will pop-up another window called "manage attachments". Then Navigate to the location of where the picture is stored on your device. Then Upload your picture from your computer or phone.

There is also another way to add pictures. Almost every single picture on the web has a URL. Copy this URL. Now use the tool icon that is a "Yellow Square" (insert image). Enter the URL of the picture. You can also share your personal pics when they are hosted by a hosting service such as Imgr.

New users can not post links or post pictures (insert image) with the URL method. You must have x-amount of posts (15 to 30?) prior to being allowed to post links.

Here is a picture added using the "paperclip" tool (an attachment). The pic is an example of the connectors found at our PCM.
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Last edited by Marde; 06-01-2018 at 12:11 AM. Reason: edits made due to post# 13
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