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Old 05-20-2018, 09:24 PM   #1
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Passenger side inside part of the outside door handle replacement

Seems like the metal piece broke, the handle on the outside doesn't open the door, inside works fine. Do you have to remove the door latch and inside handle and pull the whole shbang out of the door?

I couldn't find any you tube videos that showed removal of the passenger side, which didn't have a lock cylinder to complicate the mess.

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Old 05-21-2018, 05:20 PM   #2
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Yes you will have to remove door panel. There are several YouTube videos.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:34 PM   #3
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i changed mine, its called the handle reinforcement that is the issue, very common on focus's

how i did mine

-remove the 7 or so torx screws around the doorcard
-pulled the cap off the handle bezel (small circular cover behind the interior pull handle)
-pulled the cap off the actual handle (i used a large blunt knife on the underside so less marring of the plastic.
-unscrewed the 1 torx screw behind the handle and 2 bolts behind the panel
-popped the mirror adjuster bezelcover off and let it dangle
-used the same dull knife to pop the handle cover taking care not to damage the interior handle inside and disconnected the power window switch and lock switch (if equipped)
- remove the door card
-used an X-acto to cut the sealant bead sealing the weather cover on the upper corner all the way to the bottom trying not to damage the foam and fold it back exposing about 8-10 inches of the door.
-on the upper corner use a light and peer though the holes you will see 2 torx screws one will be long one will be short (the long one may be hiding behind a rubber plug/cover (remove them)
- once removed use your fingers to pry the outer lock cover off then once thats removed grab the handle and with a sliding motion towards the cover you removed the outer handle should slide about 1/4 of an inch just pull out the part thats closest to cover and it will come out of the door once that part is out you can slide the other side thats hinged out ( its hinged on a pin )
-remove the plastic spacers thats clipped to the door and do not loose them
-back inside the door look in and under the latch assembly for the power locks plug and unplug it then with a torx socket remove the 3 exterior bolts holding the latching assembly.. when the final bolt is removed the entire assembly (reinforcement and latch should fall free so make sure you have a hold of it then just manipulate the latch around until it comes out of one of the holes in the door.. the latch and reinforcement are connected together with an anti slimjim cover
-when the assembly is out release the reinforcement from the upper part and you should be able to maneuver the locking bar out and just reinstall everything in the reverse order as you removed it...

if you cut the sealant bead proper you can actually reseal it to eachother again (also another tip strips of saran wrap on the sealant will prevent it from getting dirty and your hands getting gunked up as you work

the lock door WILL have the lock cylinder parts installed so its the same process you just dont actually have a cylinder installed and if you DO have a cylinder you just press the metal D looking thing on the rear of the reinforcement and the entire cylinder will just pop out (some focus's have a passenger cylinder some do not..)
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:56 PM   #4
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X2 This. ^^^^^
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:23 PM   #5
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Nice write up. I went through that whole process on mine and I discovered that Ford changed the design on the rod that actuates the latch mechanisim. I replaced my 03 doors with rust free ones from a 2000. The earlier ones had a spring loaded rod that won't work with the door lock reinforcements that I bought so I used the 03 guts in the older doors.

While doing this I noticed that now the door handle actuated the rod but not enough to release the latch. So I got ano bolt, washer and nut that was small enough to fit inside the slot just below the rod and fits inside the plastic guard and the door now opens great.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anc6802 View Post
Nice write up. I went through that whole process on mine and I discovered that Ford changed the design on the rod that actuates the latch mechanisim. I replaced my 03 doors with rust free ones from a 2000. The earlier ones had a spring loaded rod that won't work with the door lock reinforcements that I bought so I used the 03 guts in the older doors.

While doing this I noticed that now the door handle actuated the rod but not enough to release the latch. So I got ano bolt, washer and nut that was small enough to fit inside the slot just below the rod and fits inside the plastic guard and the door now opens great.
that means the adjustment at the top has let go or the bar is bent if you see a nut.. mine had that caused hell of issues being trapped in my car because of it. ford had 2 types the one with the Teflon slider and the ridged one. ive mixed and matched so many on my cars ive lost track of what car has what hear door latch.. some can be saved some cannot..

in my posts i had a door with an issue that would cause the central locking system to lock as i was driving parked everything it got to the point my neighbors left me notes saying my car was double beeping and my hazards were flashing.. IE my car was thinking it was being instructed to continually lock the doors. (pics below)

easiest way to find out pull the exterior handle out if it stays out it means the reinforcement is broken and needs to be replaced if the handle pulls back in proper it means its out of adjustment some people have used a simple pair of pliers to give more of a straight bar to where its bent it helps but most of the time the spin clip adjusters on the reinforcement has let it jump... theres also writeups of how people have removed the bar from said adjuster and used a backernut to prevent the adjuster from jumping..

usually extreme heat or extreme cold causes it but a 800lbs gorilla reefing on the handle will also cause it to go out of adjustment

heres what i found that was causing my cars locking system to go berserk i removed it and adjusted the upper part and the issue went away.


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Old 05-22-2018, 12:35 PM   #7
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Mine didn't have that screw in the lever under the rod like yours did. It was just sliding up and down in the slot in the lever, apparently it must have fell out at some point.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anc6802 View Post
Mine didn't have that screw in the lever under the rod like yours did. It was just sliding up and down in the slot in the lever, apparently it must have fell out at some point.
its not, its supposed to slide that's how it was designed its a quick fix but only makes it worst as when it goes the second time it means the rods so bent out of shape have fun bending it back.

as mentioned mine had the bolt which was installed by a previous owner/previous mechanic. i removed it properly adjusted the bar and the door works like new
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticMynx View Post
i changed mine, its called the handle reinforcement that is the issue, very common on focus's

how i did mine

-back inside the door look in and under the latch assembly for the power locks plug and unplug it then with a torx socket remove the 3 exterior bolts holding the latching assembly.. when the final bolt is removed the entire assembly (reinforcement and latch should fall free so make sure you have a hold of it then just manipulate the latch around until it comes out of one of the holes in the door.. the latch and reinforcement are connected together with an anti slimjim cover
-when the assembly is out release the reinforcement from the upper part and you should be able to maneuver the locking bar out and just reinstall everything in the reverse order as you removed it...
Boy, the above sounded easy.

What I found on my 2006 Focus - and some hints.

1. after removing the 3 latch torx bolts, I found I had to disconnect the inside handle cable from the assembly to get enough clearance to pull the latch and reinforcement out.
2. the assembly just doesn't come out - you really have to pull on it to get it out, you would think Ford would have given just a millimeter more of clearance on that bottom door hole - would have made it much easier.
3. when I removed the reinforcement bracket, the white plastic piece dropped, which I was able to get. When I looked at the new bracket, it only had 1 white plastic piece - so I initially used the one from the old for the rear torx and the new one for the front - yes, it took me a little figuring that the rear torx screw does not need the white plastic piece (thus the reason the new one only comes with one!) - if you attempt to put the rear plastic piece on, the outside handle will not latch into place - but it really looks like it should be there (again, see #6 where this would have helped!).
4. again, you really have to push that assembly with quite force to force it through the bottom hole in the door - put the reinforcment through first.
5. since I didn't have the hands of a 2 year old, I put a dab of that black sticky sealant on the tip of the screwdriver to hold the screw while I put it the reinforment bracket (the one that goes into the white plastic piece)
6. (what I failed to do) - Take pictures during each step of removing pieces, as I wasn't sure what the path was for the inside handle/lock cable took to get to the latch assembly - I took some clues from the indentation of the water barrier and the placement of the pieces.

But...all in all - it's done. Got away with an under $15.00 material cost (Ebay) and $20.00 in tools I didn't have. (I won't count the $20.00 I paid for the initial replacement bracket - which turned out I ordered the rear door...Didn't realize that until I had the whole assembly out and inside the house and it didn't match up to the connecting rod - glad this wasn't a daily driver so i could leave the door apart for a few days while the new bracket arrived. I consider buying it at autozone, but they wanted over $100.00 for it - for $80.00 savings, I can wait a couple days).
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