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Old 06-29-2019, 05:46 PM   #1
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Problem with fuel pump circuit. 2001 zx3

So this has been an off and on problem and needless to say, has been very annoying. A few months ago i started having no start and stalling issues from lack of fuel pressure. Its confirmed its a fuel problem. During no start issues the pump gets power at KOEoff but instead of making the normal priming noise, it makes a grinding sound, or a low fast rumbling sound. No fuel is pumped. Sort of sounds like a seized electric motor. I replaced the pump. It worked for a little while, but the problem came back. The code that is sometimes thrown is p1237. I know this code points to either a bad pump or bad wiring in the pump circuit. I replaced the wires and connectors going from the fpdm to the pump and it ran perfect for over a week. Then the problem came back. Exactly the same. Using this website to trouble shoot the fpdm
https://www.justanswer.com/ford/85te...ng-12-vdc.html I found out its not a pump issue. It runs fine by jumpering the wires, or backprobing the pump ground signal wire at pin 3 and grounding it. After i back probe that wire and let the pump run at full power for a second, i can now prime and start it just fine normally. Until the problem comes back again.
On to the questions, does this mean its a spotty connection at the fpdm? Is the fpdm still a possible culprit? Is there anything else you all think i should check? Please any help would be amazing.


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Old 06-29-2019, 06:00 PM   #2
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First thing I would do would be to check the ground connection. Clean the ground and re-tighten, see if it doesn't improve.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:01 PM   #3
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If by testing you are simply bypassing the fpdm then it has to be that, or connection to it.

Don't doubt what you see provided it is true.

If you replaced the pump ONLY and not the entire module, that is likely a mistake complicating things.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:24 PM   #4
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Ok, so when i replaced the fuel pump, i also replaced the module, my fuel level sensor wires looked discolored in a spot on the in tank portion of the wires. Figured better safe than sorry. When i replaced the connectors and wires between the fpdm and the pump i also replaced the whole ground wire setup that leads from the pump and the fpdm to the bracket under the carpet. I also filed on the sheet metal and cleaned the bolt with a wire brush. All tests with the multimeter have shown good grounds. Now if i just backprobe the signal ground going to the pump from the fpdm at the fpdm connector, pin 3, the pump still makes the seized noise. When i apply ground to that backprobe with the key on, it runs the pump at full power. I turn off the key, I remove the backprobe, then i turn the key on to prime the pump, it primes normally. Well until ive been driving it, for say 10 minutes or even 2 weeks, then the problem comes back.
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Old 06-29-2019, 06:31 PM   #5
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Oh i should also mention after the second time the problem came back, i replaced the wires and connectors again using parts from another focus in the wrecking yard. So thats 2 fuel pumps, two sets of connectors and 2 sets of wires this problem has presisted on intermittently. The problem started out small originally, it would take a few cranks to start in the morning, or it would hesitate while driving. Then is progressed to stalling, but would restart usually on the first attempt. Then taking longer to restart, until one day it just didnt restart. Always with the same noise coming from the pump when trying to prime it.
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:21 PM   #6
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You have thrown all repeatability of being reliable out the window by so far using only possibly derelict pumps. If they use ethanol in your local fuel the pumps likely sat in it for a while to go bad.

Maybe not but now you cannot tell with any sureness of decision, what you are doing is tilting all your decision making toward worthless. While it may not be that, it just as easily could be 10 pumps doing the same as 2, the used parts have destroyed any applying of weed out or culling out techniques there. If the module was never opened up then 4 more connections (2 plug in) right inside it that could be bad too.

At the very least you better have pulled the modules apart to clean them out 100% or even worse, they can be completely full of crap BTDT. Any rust on low lying bottom section of pump itself says the impeller in the last 3/8" or so is corroded to drag, it may work at full speed but lower power has it begin to drag and worse as it heats up.

With a less than stellar pump it may run fine at full power but being able to with no drag at lower rpm is the mark of a good one. So now, you can't blame it 100% solidly on the good ground issue, or the fpdm. Ergo, extra fumbling around to accomplish nothing solid.

So, possible pump, FPDM, and now the pumps you have chosen yourself are an issue, the used angle, as possible problems there. While you will likely find a good one eventually at the yard, how long do you have to work on it? You work down the problems not add to them.

FWIW.............I LOVE scrapyard parts too, BUT.........fuel pump is one item I will NEVER get there, you guys continue doing it, I see way too much chasing of tail doing that and not the good kind.

Of course, yours, and do as you will...........
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Last edited by amc49; 06-29-2019 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 06-29-2019, 07:30 PM   #7
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Another thought.................I once had a battery go way down due to an alt bad, it did the same thing, the pump would drag and make noise. Did not know battery was low until the thought hit me and there it was.
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Old 06-29-2019, 08:14 PM   #8
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And that's why I listen to amc49. Brilliance!
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:02 PM   #9
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The replacement pump was a new in box delphi module. The other pump i mentioned was the original one i bought the car with. It was replaced because of the T.S.B.i assume because it was the new style pump. The only pick n pull parts are wires and connectors. Both pumps work when powered directly with battery voltage and ground.
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Old 06-29-2019, 10:32 PM   #10
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Also battery is at 12.43 volts at the battery and 12.38 at the fuel pump with the key on. Battery running is at 14.15 volts. The car runs at the moment, but wasnt this morning, until i back probed the connector at the fpdm for the modulated fuel pump ground. Then applied a ground to the chassis from the probe. After i primed the pump that way, the pump now primes and starts properly with the key with no current codes. My issue is thats not reliable and this is my get to work car.
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