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Old 06-30-2019, 02:24 AM   #11
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OK, you have weeded out a lot. If you are sure it's the connector then fix it. Not rocket science there.

Sorry I had to push you to get more specifics.

When it comes to wiring and connectors I commonly make my own, yard wiring due to what it is can always be a problem. Anytime you plug and unplug a connector more than twice you will likely have trouble with it unless you go back into it to tighten it back up, connectors are actually made to work only one time and even more so now with the multi-pin ones commonly used.

Still could be the driver module, they fail rarely but at some point somebody will get one that does. Pump grounds into it and it grounds to car frame. Module itself ramps speed up and down and dragging pump could easily be module off too.

Last edited by amc49; 06-30-2019 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:38 AM   #12
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Hey no worries, i reread my post about pick n pull parts and realized it wasnt the clearest. Since the fpdm rarely fails, do you think that would be a ok part to grab from the yard today?
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:51 AM   #13
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Find one car that looks like doors or windows not open enough to get rain all over it and I would be willing to try that part from a yard.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:13 PM   #14
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So problem came back. I found a amazing condition car that i can nearly swear never had its fuel pump touched donor. I took the wiring only off it and bought a new FPDM. The car ran amazing all day, until i went to leave from picking up my pizza. The same thing solved it and got me home. I jumped the fuel pump signal ground from the fpdm side of the harness to the chassis, and the pump will prime with the key properly again. Im figuring its either the pump, the wiring going to the fpdm or the pcm now.
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Old 07-02-2019, 03:42 PM   #15
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So just a rundown of everything up to date, but still having same intermittent issue ive been having for months now. So far the same issue has happened with the fuel pump that i bought the car with, a new drop in pump, and a new pump module assembly. The wireing has been replaced and checked 3 times. Ground wires running from fpdm and fuel pump to spot under the seat have been replaced, bolt and bracket cleaned and sanded.Tested for shorts, opens. Load tested, resistance tested. Fpdm has been replaced with a brand new motocraft unit. Inertia switch has been checked.
The pump always gets power, so i know the fuse and relay are good. When the problem happens while running, my car basically loses fuel pressure then dies. When i turn the key on to prime the pump, i get a quick dadadada noise instead of the priming noise for 2 seconds. No fuel is pumped at this time. Confirmed at the outlet hose of the fuel pump where it connects to the fuel filter. This problem goes away anywhere from a half a day to 2 weeks, then comes back. I can make the pump prime and run normally with the key only after i backprobe the ground wire running from fpdm to fuel pump at the fpdm connector, connect backprobe to chassis, turn on the key to prime. At that time the pump runs at full power. I turn off the key, remove jumper wire and backprobe. Then when i turn the key to prime again, the pump will prime and run normally until the fault returns. For the love of god im going to shoot my car if i cant figure this out. Any ideas? Basically the only things i havent replaced are the signal wires running between the fpdm and the pcm, and the pcm itself.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:22 PM   #16
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Before I say next I must state that I do NOT know 100% how the fpdm works...........BUT.......it reads the speed of the pump to give the PCM a signal based on it. Then PCM alters the fpdm powering and grounding the pump to adjust speed in some way. If you are backprobing with fpdm still hooked up to the ground you are sending useless info to PCM as the backprobe drops all signal to PCM because the pure ground is easier for power to flow through, less then goes to fpdm. It may even damage the PCM. At the least the PCM may hold the useless info in memory to use that next time car gets started. Without knowing how low the input power is there it's impossible to tell if the backprobing through fpdm has damaged the PCM.

If the 'useless info' is low due to the pure ground to frame has sucked most of it up then PCM would get a lesser amount and think it was normal to adjust to that amount, thus making pump get too little power. The stutter. Maybe you should try to take a power read at pump power lead when it is stuttering like that.

Proof of nothing but it makes sense.

Sorry, I got nothing better than that. Thinking all the extra work has possibly messed something up, what multiple 'fixes' commonly do.

Last edited by amc49; 07-02-2019 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 07-03-2019, 08:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Before I say next I must state that I do NOT know 100% how the fpdm works...........BUT.......it reads the speed of the pump to give the PCM a signal based on it. Then PCM alters the fpdm powering and grounding the pump to adjust speed in some way. If you are backprobing with fpdm still hooked up to the ground you are sending useless info to PCM as the backprobe drops all signal to PCM because the pure ground is easier for power to flow through, less then goes to fpdm. It may even damage the PCM. At the least the PCM may hold the useless info in memory to use that next time car gets started. Without knowing how low the input power is there it's impossible to tell if the backprobing through fpdm has damaged the PCM.

If the 'useless info' is low due to the pure ground to frame has sucked most of it up then PCM would get a lesser amount and think it was normal to adjust to that amount, thus making pump get too little power. The stutter. Maybe you should try to take a power read at pump power lead when it is stuttering like that.

Proof of nothing but it makes sense.

Sorry, I got nothing better than that. Thinking all the extra work has possibly messed something up, what multiple 'fixes' commonly do.
From what I understand, the fpdm works as a signal doubler. The pcm sends a duty cycle signal less than 50%, the fpdm sends the doubled signal to the pump. Then reports back to the pcm on the running condutions of the pump. Based on the reading from the fuel rail pressure sensor the pcm alters the signal to the fpdm to run the pump accordingly. Not the code my car throws, but this video explains how the fpdm works starting at 1:16 until about the 3 minute mark. https://youtu.be/GqZTkso6kSg
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Old 07-03-2019, 09:05 PM   #18
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I pretty much knew everything that was there FWIW.
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Fix the driver first, then fixing the car becomes so much easier..........
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:04 PM   #19
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Two things I would check next.
I would check the connector and wires leading to the fuel pump shut off switch in the passenger kick panel maybe I would even grab one from the junk yard and swap it incase the switch is faulty for some freaky reason.
The junk yard would probably only want $2-$5 for it, if they're anything like the yards around me.

Other suspects I would wonder about is the ignition assembly in the steering column, the evap module being plugged, or the FRPS being faulty and telling the ecu a wrong reading during startup.

Your issue and functioning work around makes me suspect that you aren't getting enough current, even though the voltage is fine.
I would of course scoop up a pump driver module from the junk yard and try it first,
if no change, then I would focus on the the shut off switch and the wiring leading to it and from it all the way to the driver module.
Another could be that you have too much gack in the tank and the sock is getting clogged up, but, surely you would have noticed that when you pulled them.

Make sure you use only 87, get it from a different source than usual if you always go to the same place.

And, I hope you changed the fuel filter before all of this madness, but, I'm sure you tried that first.
Good luck man. That's a strange one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by antihero43 View Post
From what I understand, the fpdm works as a signal doubler. The pcm sends a duty cycle signal less than 50%, the fpdm sends the doubled signal to the pump. Then reports back to the pcm on the running condutions of the pump. Based on the reading from the fuel rail pressure sensor the pcm alters the signal to the fpdm to run the pump accordingly. Not the code my car throws, but this video explains how the fpdm works starting at 1:16 until about the 3 minute mark. https://youtu.be/GqZTkso6kSg
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Last edited by cheap sleeper; 07-06-2019 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:06 PM   #20
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Another thing I just thought of which, did hose me long ago: check the little rubber hoses that run into the module on the passenger firewall.
They barely reach the module, and, if your mounts are shot and letting the engine move around a lot, they could be unattached.

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