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Old 06-27-2019, 09:00 PM   #11
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Hello. I found it that way with the pliers tucked left in there by someone, as I was taking these pics to post it on the forums. I will stress I'm not an expert on cars or their components, but I also found it strange that part you mention is not secured to anything. Also. Do you know what that P1703 code means? Could that have anything to do with my issue?
So that has been like that all the time you are having the engine shut down issues? Or was that left like that from the recent work you had done at the dealer? Or both?

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Old 06-28-2019, 11:42 AM   #12
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I honestly don't know if it's been unbolted the entire time I've had the car, or if it is a recent thing. I've hard the engine shut down issue for two weeks now, and the ignition capacitor being unbolted, is something I just noticed after removing those large pair of pliers from around that area after having been taken to the dealer.

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Old 06-28-2019, 12:21 PM   #13
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The pliers part is nuts. It must have been wedged in tight to not fall and rattle around the first time you started the car. Things would have gotten interesting if it fell into your belts.
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Old 06-28-2019, 06:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure1000 View Post
I honestly don't know if it's been unbolted the entire time I've had the car, or if it is a recent thing. I've hard the engine shut down issue for two weeks now, and the ignition capacitor being unbolted, is something I just noticed after removing those large pair of pliers from around that area after having been taken to the dealer.
Well I cant say for certain whether the ignition capacitor has anything to do with the issue you are having or why it was left to way it was. I can say that it is designed to be a fairly benign component with the purpose of reducing ignition static thru the radio. If you took it out the engine would still run. However if it fails in a way that it is internally shorted that could cause problems with the ignition being shorted out. Perhaps the experiment would be to remove it and see if the problem goes away.

And although anything is possible I would not think a failure of the brake ON/OFF switch would result in an engine shut down situation.

Good luck
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Old 07-01-2019, 06:41 PM   #15
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I'll be sure to check it out. Also want to mention I notice that when I turn the ignition half-way and all the dashboard lights come on, the check engine light starts to blink, if I fully start the car it will disappear though. Not sure if that is normal or not?
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:07 AM   #16
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Give it some thought, if the brake switch is not switching on/off then PCM has no idea car is slowing down and does not switch the converter clutch off which then kills the motor at a slowdown. All lights come on at a dead motor and the steering gets super stiff suddenly to 'lock up', not really locking the steering per se. 'Trans control switch' can mean more than one thing, there really is no one switch that does that unless the OD switch is called it, the trans range sensor is one too. Converter not being off tells PCM indirectly the OD is not working right too. Why the CEL may be flashing.

OP needs to think back and see if all the dies came when he hits the brakes and the proof there. I'd fix that brake switch. And the broken ignition capacitor too.

Maybe not, could be a BCM thing with the autolocking coming back off like said.
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Old 07-02-2019, 11:51 AM   #17
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Hmm, Actually no the only thing that dies is the engine. The radio, and/or AC being on when this issue happens, continue to function as if nothing is wrong. Only lights to come on is the Engine. oil, and battery lights and nothing more than those three. I want to also point out. The Engine can also die with the motor running while the car is in park, and the only time I notice it cut off while in drive, is when i'm moving very slow, under 10 mph or so in a parking lot.

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Old 07-02-2019, 03:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
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remove it and see if the problem goes away.
Try that and let me know.

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Old 07-02-2019, 11:38 PM   #19
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'The radio, and/or AC being on when this issue happens, continue to function as if nothing is wrong.'

Didn't say they didn't and partially correct. The a/c SEEMS to be OK because blower keeps blowing but engine dying stops a/c compressor from turning, impossible not to. The a/c if left like that would get warmer in less than 60 seconds when the evaporator warmed back up. It's off even though you think not. I didn't mention radio.

By 'all lights' I meant the engine ones, didn't think I needed to spell it out.

If not that then you have multiple issues and more $$$$$$$$$..........the autolocking error has nothing to do with normal engine dying nor the trans code for OD along with flashing light. Fix the broken cap. The brake switch also signals the TB to bump the idle speed up, maybe another reason for the dies. 5 things wrong so far.

I was trying to find a common denominator there, if you want to lean toward paying for multiple errors and fixes it's your car, do what you want.
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Old 07-03-2019, 10:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
'The radio, and/or AC being on when this issue happens, continue to function as if nothing is wrong.'

Didn't say they didn't and partially correct. The a/c SEEMS to be OK because blower keeps blowing but engine dying stops a/c compressor from turning, impossible not to. The a/c if left like that would get warmer in less than 60 seconds when the evaporator warmed back up. It's off even though you think not. I didn't mention radio.

By 'all lights' I meant the engine ones, didn't think I needed to spell it out.

If not that then you have multiple issues and more $$$$$$$$$..........the autolocking error has nothing to do with normal engine dying nor the trans code for OD along with flashing light. Fix the broken cap. The brake switch also signals the TB to bump the idle speed up, maybe another reason for the dies. 5 things wrong so far.

I was trying to find a common denominator there, if you want to lean toward paying for multiple errors and fixes it's your car, do what you want.
Misread your previous post. I would say 99% of the engine stoppage is during brake usage. The 1% left of that iswhen it turned off while the car is in park in the driveway with the motor running, etc. I feel as if when I don't have the radio and/or AC on the issue doesn't creep up as frequent as when they are on, but it still will shut off during braking eventually. but maybe that's just my imagination. I will have both parts mentioned on here checked out to see what's up. thanks

Last edited by Azure1000; 07-04-2019 at 05:57 PM.
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