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Old 05-26-2019, 07:30 PM   #1
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Exclamation PLEASE HELP | Loss of Power to dash/internals (2007 Ford Focus SE)

Please try and help me, I've been trying to fix my car for days and I have no idea what might be wrong. I need to be able to drive to get to work and have no other options.

My car is a 2007 Ford Focus SE

So, about a week ago I noticed the check engine light came on in my car. I went to O'Reily's that day to see if I could figure out what the problem was. He checked it and it said the engine is running lean so I needed to clean the Mass Air Filter Sensor and the filter. I wasn't able to get to cleaning it until 4 days later. On day 3 I was driving, but the A/C was blowing at about half power. Then the Stereo died, then finally the dash went totally dead. The car would not start again once I got home and turned it off, but I tried again about an hour later and it started fine. Check engine light was still on.

The next day I got under the car and cleaned the MAF sensor but was unable to get to the filter. I started the car okay, but the engine light was still on and the car would still lose power. I then checked the battery and found it was at 11.4 Amps, 35% capacity. So I charged it and it still was having issues. This morning I then cleaned all the corrosion off of the battery and terminals, and started her up.
The check engine light had now gone off and the car was running just fine.

I thought I solved it so I went to a friend's grad party, no issues while driving with stereo blasting and AC at full power.

I start it up again and on the way home, the same kind of loss of power happened. Only in addition to all the interior losing power, the car started jerking as their was a kind of clunking sound coming from the engine (It sounded like the transmission was having trouble shifting to different gears as I slowed down, then sped up again)

I think it might be an issue with one of four things

1. the MAF sensor filter, as I was able to clean the sensor but not the filter itself. However the check engine light also turned off after cleaning the battery terminals, so I don't know.
2. The battery, I charged the battery as it was running at 11.4 amps and I charged it up to about 12.8 Amps, I took it to O'Reily's and had it checked but they said it was a good battery, and I didn't need it replaced.
3. The alternator, due to loss of power after the car running for a while I think it might be that, as it would explain the power loss after the car had been running.
4. Fuel pump? I went to a home depot yesterday (before I cleaned the MAFS and the addressed the battery issues) to get a tool I needed to clean the MAF sensor and I told the guy about what was happening. He said he used to work on cars and what it sounds like is a fuel pump issue. I hope it's not that.

PLEASE let me know if you have any idea what it might be, I need to get my car fixed and I'm desperate because I need to get to work.


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Old 05-26-2019, 07:45 PM   #2
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Well it would have been really nice to know what the voltage at the battery was when the car was running. It definitely sounds like you have a charging issue, but I can't say that for sure without knowing what the voltage was with the car running. You could definitely have a bad alternator.
I would recharge that battery and see if that gets the car running. If the car is running check the voltage at the battery.


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Old 05-26-2019, 07:46 PM   #3
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As far as I know the voltage was okay, I can't remember what it was though. I'll check the voltage again, thanks!
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Old 05-26-2019, 07:48 PM   #4
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You should be in the 14 volt range with the car running.

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Old 05-26-2019, 08:06 PM   #5
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thanks!
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:20 PM   #6
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Like Zac mentioned it really sounds like your alternator, possibly the regulator. Charging the battery would tell you & you did mention 11.4 amps. As far as the lean condition, What is the code(s)? You need to figure out & work on one thing at a time instead of jumping around. Stop & think what are the problems are & whats causing them. So it runs good w/ a charged battery, Why would you think its a fuel pump?
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:01 PM   #7
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I was able to find out that it is the alternator that is causing the issues and it needs to be fully replaced.

Somebody I talked to told me it was a fuel pump, I am just starting to learn more about cars/engines.

It does run fine with a charged battery, fuel pump is not the issue.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:11 PM   #8
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I did an alternator test and it is the alternator that is causing the issues, but I do not know what kind of alternator I have. I've tried looking it up but can't find a way to tell what alternator I need
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:06 PM   #9
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Best info source.

How do I delete a duplicate post?
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:07 PM   #10
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Best info source.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NKeith View Post
I did an alternator test and it is the alternator that is causing the issues, but I do not know what kind of alternator I have. I've tried looking it up but can't find a way to tell what alternator I need
From now until warp drives are real: When you jump start another car DO NOT leave your car running. That's the quickest way to kill your alternator.

http://parts.ford.com and enter your VIN. NOT the 'drill down' selectors for year-make-model.


Even if you do not buy there you'll get the correct part number.

FYI FOR EVERYONE In all the vehicles I've owned late-ish models of Focus have been the second most with 'electric gremlins' related to low voltage (either from battery or alternator). When the charging system is back up to snuff 99% of electric problems are solved.

BTW, the worst was a 1973 MGB- I had to rewire a good bit and I ran a Hitachi alternator. I was single then, drove from Ft. Bragg to Myrtle Beach and that car was a 'jail bait' magnet (probably safer to call it a 'bikini magnet') but "NO" I did nothing illegal :D
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