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Old 04-13-2019, 08:02 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by pbfoot View Post
So front struts are original?
As far as I know yes, but new ones are on order
I am pretty sure that will be the fix. My 07 had a similar issue and the struts fixed it. I initially thought they were still good as they felt stiff to me but at 105,000 miles I knew they needed to be replaced. I would also replace the tie rods as it is time mileage wise and they are easy to replace. You are going to have to get an alignment anyways and you have replaced so much so why not? You will be shocked at how loose the ball fittings are and how tight new ones are. I use a clamp style tie rod remover for the inner. Zip tie the boots back on.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:13 AM   #22
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https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...RoCy2AQAvD_BwE
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:14 AM   #23
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Use blue loctite on the inner tie rod threads.
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Old 04-13-2019, 07:54 PM   #24
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Give some consideration back to mounts if they were not official Ford parts. The pass side mount has much to do with road smoothness besides taking care of engine vibes. The aftermarket absolutely cannot make a mount that approaches the Ford pass side one in quality, we have seen that a hundred times here onsite. Right out of the box aftermarlet parts produce an uncountable number of issues that the Ford one does not.

That pass side can make an on road at speed vibration that filters into the chassis as perceived tire vibration, I have seen it myself.

You guys...........

I run original struts all the way to car death in junkyard. I never change them ever except in accident damage. One has to have an understanding that the shock portion CANNOT damp normal road vibration as the vibration commonly is of so short a length to not activate any damping even in NEW struts. Damping can only work with the strut worked to use length, road vibration unless extremely severe cannot work a shock enough to utilize damping. The moment of each spike is too short, it takes more distance for the compensation valves to even activate than the moment causes. The only real way is for the strut bushings to have compacted and that is rubber part change only. I have struts with well over 200K miles on 3 cars and nothing wrong there except the damping shows on violent potholes and such, what is to be expected. The car leans a bit more at turns too. They drive fine at 80 mph.

Same with all ties. I change them with any looseness at all but if they have 200K and are still tight at a 3 and 9 check they stay on and the steering is as precise as it will ever get and the cars stay dead straight on the road. I can change lanes with less than 1/8" movement at the steering wheel either way.

No need to change parts that still work well regardless of what they say. Save the money for the parts that are broken, you will have piles of them on Focus cars.

You guys do what you will, I change nothing without a solid reason.

Last edited by amc49; 04-13-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:05 PM   #25
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Per post #24, if you used anything but Motorcraft mounts all bets are off. I tried a passenger side Anchor mount and it lasted 2 weeks.

Last edited by pbfoot; 04-14-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:16 PM   #26
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By the way, missed one cause of vibration like that.....................look the unibody over real good for cracked weldpoints. Had one car begin to vibrate in certain windows of road use and the main front frame where it came up to over front wheel had broken loose to let the unibody vibrate due to flex. Car was never in accident, it just cracked and then began to let successive weldspots crack more. Tacking back down with more weld fixed it 100%. $10 fix.

Like I said, use that money where it will do some good.
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Old 04-14-2019, 08:20 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Give some consideration back to mounts if they were not official Ford parts. The pass side mount has much to do with road smoothness besides taking care of engine vibes. The aftermarket absolutely cannot make a mount that approaches the Ford pass side one in quality, we have seen that a hundred times here onsite. Right out of the box aftermarlet parts produce an uncountable number of issues that the Ford one does not.

That pass side can make an on road at speed vibration that filters into the chassis as perceived tire vibration, I have seen it myself.

You guys...........

I run original struts all the way to car death in junkyard. I never change them ever except in accident damage. One has to have an understanding that the shock portion CANNOT damp normal road vibration as the vibration commonly is of so short a length to not activate any damping even in NEW struts. Damping can only work with the strut worked to use length, road vibration unless extremely severe cannot work a shock enough to utilize damping. The moment of each spike is too short, it takes more distance for the compensation valves to even activate than the moment causes. The only real way is for the strut bushings to have compacted and that is rubber part change only. I have struts with well over 200K miles on 3 cars and nothing wrong there except the damping shows on violent potholes and such, what is to be expected. The car leans a bit more at turns too. They drive fine at 80 mph.

Same with all ties. I change them with any looseness at all but if they have 200K and are still tight at a 3 and 9 check they stay on and the steering is as precise as it will ever get and the cars stay dead straight on the road. I can change lanes with less than 1/8" movement at the steering wheel either way.

No need to change parts that still work well regardless of what they say. Save the money for the parts that are broken, you will have piles of them on Focus cars.

You guys do what you will, I change nothing without a solid reason.
Wow. Only bad advice I've ever seen you give. Just because your experience driving struts into the ground was vibration free does not mean that it can't be the case here. Do the parts have to fail completely before you change them? Wtf.
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Old 04-14-2019, 08:42 AM   #28
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I need to change my front ones out. The drivers side has turned into a marshmallow.

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Old 04-15-2019, 01:20 AM   #29
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I change parts way before they go 100% bad, I guarantee it. I would not hesitate to change struts but I have to have a reason. The cars handle fine even in critical sudden moves like death swerves and 4 wheel full locked brakes to avoid accident. By 'damping showing' I mean you can tell the strut is not new but it IS still plenty useable. I am well aware of what dangerous damping is.

A shock or strut commonly cannot get rid of short moment vibration, the shaft does not move enough to offer any resistance. The rubber mounts are what kill vibration like that. It's in every shock engineering book out there. Of course you have to read.

Apparently I don't tear up my cars nearly as much as others do theirs, the only way I can account for any difference there. I know I don't have nearly the front end issue so many here onsite do all day long, I don't even line the cars up commonly although I can do it, The cars drive perfectly and forever, smooth with no vibration and steering moves instantly if wanted although car stays dead centered in the lane. The other odd thing I do ya'll don't agree with is no tire rotation at all, I change tires on front with new and the old fronts go on the back and backs junked. It renews the alignment back to perfect even though running like that never lets the align get off enough to worry about anyway. I quit balancing all tires on 3 cars some 10 years ago in stages and no regrets there either unless I should be regretting the extra cash it freed up. I might feel some vibration at 100 mph but what am I doing at that speed anyway?, they drive fine at 80 mph, and the end of my performance envelope.

You'll love it even more finding out I have tires that have as many as 4 plugs in them, around here the construction guys dump all trash on the roadways and it's not uncommon to pick up a nail every 2 months. I've had 4 in one month only and when I first moved here I had across all cars 40 flats in one YEAR!!!!! Forcing me of course to learn how to fix flats and now up to about a 90%+ success rate. I can do many of them in 3 minutes and tire does not come off car. Why I also gave up paying for any road hazard on new tires, all I was doing was spending all my off days at the tire shop waiting on them to fix tires. When you come in as much as I used to they begin to put you way back in priority, and why I learned to fix them myself. Putting the old tires on rear helped insure that the bad tires are the ones that go flat since the rears typically catch nails much more than the fronts. So if a tire can't be repaired it's usually an old one, less $$$$$ loss there.

Tires bought in pairs, no balancing, no rotation, free DEPENDABLE flat fixes, NO road hazard charges..............a whopping amount of cash saved there and yet the cars still drive and handle just great. The only thing I need the tire shop for is tire mounting.

Let me know when you guys catch up..............I got a WHOLE lot more than that too. How you turn the cars into cash generators. The only way I could give bad advice would most likely be because others cannot accurately reproduce what I do all day long. I've had some 50 years now of that and quite used to it by now. My world allows zero room for a safespace, it's all real physical world there.

Last edited by amc49; 04-15-2019 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:37 AM   #30
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