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Old 03-28-2019, 09:06 PM   #1
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Rear Power Window Not working

I bought a 2000 Ford Focus. The rear power window is not working. I just replaced entire regulator and motor for it. Went to turn it on to see if it would work and it sounds like there is no power getting to it. Checked the fuses and even switched them. All other windows have power and work as should be. Just rear passenger side won’t. All the wiring looks Un damaged.

What could it be? Could it be just the main switch? Would that cause only one window to not work?

I haven’t replaced the door panel or the switches to the door itself yet. Hoping to figure it out before I put it all back together.


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Old 03-29-2019, 05:24 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
...Could it be just the main switch? Would that cause only one window to not work?...
Yes. Each door window circuit is a LOOP through the main switch. Either switch can seem to be working-fine, working intermittently, or not working at all. It is difficult to figure out which switch is the problem child. Yes, this does get a little confusing.

The typical (switch) failure is the main switch, not the smaller switches at the other doors. I have previously disassembled and cleaned the "guts" of the main switch to fix these/those type of problems... by using sandpaper to clean the "electrical contact points" inside the main switch.

Many/most people just buy another main switch at a car junkyard. My "sandpaper fixes" of the main switch seem to last a year or two or three. I have done this twice to fix the;
(first time was the ) Front passenger side window
(second time was the) Rear passenger side window

I need to do it again, because the front passenger side window is again mostly non-responsive to the main switch. Been like that for a year now. Ugh.

Because of the "LOOP" circuit design, a single bad-spot can cause both switches to seem like they have failed, for a single window.

Gd luck
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Old 03-29-2019, 10:10 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I bought a 2000 Ford Focus. The rear power window is not working. I just replaced entire regulator and motor for it. Went to turn it on to see if it would work and it sounds like there is no power getting to it. Checked the fuses and even switched them. All other windows have power and work as should be. Just rear passenger side wonít. All the wiring looks Un damaged.

What could it be? Could it be just the main switch? Would that cause only one window to not work?

I havenít replaced the door panel or the switches to the door itself yet. Hoping to figure it out before I put it all back together.
Do you have a VOM, test light, etc., to do circuit/component testing?
Paul
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Do you have a VOM, test light, etc., to do circuit/component testing?
Paul
That is always a great idea and is nearly mandatory for those skilled to do so... However:

#1 - The wiring for that system is confusing. Even for those who have lots of experience.
#2 - I know this first hand. It had me spinning my head. -plus see #3.
#3 - My circuit tests (using a DVM) all passed because the (my) system fault is mostly OR is only reproduced when the circuit is under load (aka the motor loads the circuit). It is a "load induced open circuit". Finding this defect with a meter or a test light is cruel joke, especially for those not experienced with this unique condition.

This is one system that I recommend to most people to "throw parts at it" meaning "throwing" the main switch or the other other door switch/es at the problem; especially after someone has already replaced the regulator (motor). Testing the switches-wiring is not worth your time... unless you are a glutton for punishment... like me?
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Old 03-30-2019, 03:12 PM   #5
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I used to have the same short lived switch 'fix' problems on Tempo window switches, fixed and working perfect but did not last long. If I did it now I would coat the switch terminals with grease like I now do on other things, the electrics then last MUCH longer. The issue with sanding is that you have bare metal that then corrodes pretty quick to greatly increase resistance. Probably why Ford also greases many of their switches inside too.
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:27 PM   #6
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^^ Yep. Great idea. I will use some dielectric grease after the next sandpaper treatment on the switch contacts.

BTW the switch contacts are copper-brass looking (so is corrosion resistive) and the corrosion has never been seen, is not visible. It is more like some kinda normal or abnormal surface oxidation(?) -not typical corrosion.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:49 AM   #7
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Not really corrosion, rather tarnish, which is thinner layered but still an oxidation thing. Copper turns dark with it as does brass. I stick copper in salt and vinegar mixed, it removes the tarnish in about a minute to then rinse and dry to solder what were dirty parts, cleans them right up like new. Same when I alter battery cables or make them longer by soldering pieces together. Or like renewing the battery terminals on old cable, you have to get the end of the cable into useable condition, then grease it and put the terminal on over the grease.

I've seen enough alt output posts on the alts burn that I began to also grease those as well. Started greasing almost any electrical under the hood a while back and so far no trouble at all from doing it. Frame grounds especially.
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Old 03-31-2019, 11:47 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marde View Post
That is always a great idea and is nearly mandatory for those skilled to do so... However:

#1 - The wiring for that system is confusing. Even for those who have lots of experience.
#2 - I know this first hand. It had me spinning my head. -plus see #3.
#3 - My circuit tests (using a DVM) all passed because the (my) system fault is mostly OR is only reproduced when the circuit is under load (aka the motor loads the circuit). It is a "load induced open circuit". Finding this defect with a meter or a test light is cruel joke, especially for those not experienced with this unique condition.

This is one system that I recommend to most people to "throw parts at it" meaning "throwing" the main switch or the other other door switch/es at the problem; especially after someone has already replaced the regulator (motor). Testing the switches-wiring is not worth your time... unless you are a glutton for punishment... like me?
Im sorry you feel this way or have problems with testing. I find power window circuits exceptionally easy to diagnose using a test light, continuity meter, etc - Ive never been 'punished' by them. My suggestion to the OP was genuine and I could walk him thru it. Throwing parts at this problem is never the best way.

I will agree to disagree on this and leave it there.

Good luck
Paul
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Old 04-01-2019, 04:02 AM   #9
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Im sorry you feel this way...
I feel what way? I shared some of my experience with that system, and some other thoughts too. Anyone who has already replaced a window regulator assembly (like the OP) should replace the main switch ((based on my experience) as opposed to testing that system wiring. That wiring system is CONFUSING... so help me God.

Quote:
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Im sorry you feel this way or have problems with testing...
I have no problems with using electrical test equipment. The opposite is true. I am an extreme electrical test geek. I was nearly born with a meter in my hand. I wish more people with car problems (electrical) would feel the way I do (we do Paul)... and use a meter and a wiring diagram before replacing parts.

Quote:
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...Throwing parts at this problem is never the best way...
OK.

But if you look back at the OP problem, and the wiring for the power windows... and my suggestions...? Do you really feel that way? Do you really feel that the OP should dive in with a meter (or a test light) into that set of circuits?

Boy Scouts Honor, that system wiring is very Tricky Dicky.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
...I will agree to disagree on this and leave it there.
OK, leave it there. But why? What is it? What exactly is it that you disagree with me?

Side note: No need to pee on me. There is no good reason to say "Im sorry you feel this way or have problems with testing".

Side note2: I am a huge fan of you Paul. You are a great helper here at FF.
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:19 PM   #10
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The circuit needs like 8 leads to pull off one motor working both ways simply because the + and - have to switch there, meaning using a multiple circuit relay to do it.

I took the driver side of my wagon and redid manual to power on that one only and using two buttons instead of one rocker. and wired all myself. Don't even need a meter if you are sure of your power source.

After I figured out that tangle of cable and broken parts could be recouped to work again for literally nothing, I had the extra motor lying around doing nothing.
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