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Old 03-24-2019, 11:15 AM   #1
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2005 ZX3 2.0, new battery, no crank

My cousin and I are fixing my daughter’s car which seemed to have an alternator problem. We replaced the alternator and the car seemed to be okay.

I was taking it to get an alignment and didn’t make it two blocks before it shut off. I was thinking maybe the alternator we used was bad or maybe we didn’t wire it back correctly.

However, the battery has a full charge but the key turned over won’t even make the engine crank. It doesn’t click either. It just turns everything on that normal goes on with the key (e.g. dash lights) but won’t turn over at all. No sounds other than the reminder chimes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as she just needs this car to last a little linger to graduate college.


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Old 03-24-2019, 12:02 PM   #2
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Just throwing out ideas here...

Is this automatic or manual transmission? If manual, then clutch switch can cause no crank condition. I don't think bad switch would cause it to die though.

There is also an inline fuse from alternator to battery "hidden" between block and firewall on most, but apparently not all. You can check that by disconnecting positive cable and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity back to alternator. If bad, then no charging of battery. Should still hear clicking of starter solenoid if battery has enough charge.

Check all fuses in battery junction box under hood and also fuse box under dash.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:50 PM   #3
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Something else to check, the starter relay and fuse, should be a fat 30A under the hood but may vary, a bad starter fuse can cause this exact issue.

Had a 96 Saturn sl1, the starter fuse also ran the radiator fan which is what caused it to blow
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:52 AM   #4
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Verify the battery is GOOD by a LOADTEST, we get hundreds through here that think charging one makes all right but you can charge a dead battery all day long and still get your exact result. Additionally, letting the battery go bad is what kills most of those alts, they cannot stand overcharging a battery that never completely 'fills up' at all. Best way to kill a 6G alt there is.

If the new alt was used to recharge the battery (even if it is new) back up after it ran down then new alt is likely junk too, they were never made to do that and Ford says NO to doing it as does every piece of alt literature on the planet. Instant alt warranty voiding.

Make sure the battery terminals are tight enough you cannot turn them by hand, these are a crap design and many if cleaned to remove even the slightest metal from the bore then tighten up like fine but you can easily swing them to all points of the compass. Needless to say 'no start' there, isn't there..............
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelpleva View Post

However, the battery has a full charge but the key turned over wonít even make the engine crank.
What are you calling a 'full charge'? What is the battery voltage at rest?

Paul
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:17 PM   #6
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X2. Indeed.

'What are you calling a 'full charge'?'

Most will say 12 volts, which is a dead battery..........
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelpleva View Post
My cousin and I are fixing my daughter’s car which seemed to have an alternator problem. We replaced the alternator and the car seemed to be okay.

I was taking it to get an alignment and didn’t make it two blocks before it shut off. I was thinking maybe the alternator we used was bad or maybe we didn’t wire it back correctly.

However, the battery has a full charge but the key turned over won’t even make the engine crank. It doesn’t click either. It just turns everything on that normal goes on with the key (e.g. dash lights) but won’t turn over at all. No sounds other than the reminder chimes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as she just needs this car to last a little linger to graduate college.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FocusKnot View Post
Just throwing out ideas here...

Is this automatic or manual transmission? If manual, then clutch switch can cause no crank condition. I don't think bad switch would cause it to die though.

There is also an inline fuse from alternator to battery "hidden" between block and firewall on most, but apparently not all. You can check that by disconnecting positive cable and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity back to alternator. If bad, then no charging of battery. Should still hear clicking of starter solenoid if battery has enough charge.

Check all fuses in battery junction box under hood and also fuse box under dash.
It’s an automatic. The battery is brand new. By full charge I mean there is enough charge to run everything in the car that it should at least crank or click but it isn’t even clicking.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:20 AM   #8
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OP still doesn't get it. If it isn't even clicking one absolutely cannot say that.

The typical novice pitfall there; no proof at all the battery is good.

Look here............a dead battery can typically make everything in the car work EXCEPT the starter, which pulls about 100X the amount of current the other things do. Why you LOADTEST. Could be something else but you do loadtest first to save possibly hundreds of dollars in wasted parts that do nothing.

I used to sell batteries, they can be bad right out of the store. Sometimes the starter solenoids click and other times they won't make a peep at all. Nothing else in a car electrically pulls as much amp as the starter circuit does. Why all the other stuff works but also why the car likely died, all systems together do not have enough power to stay running. Yet everything still 'works' by itself.

And if OP used the new alt to charge the battery back up and it was run down enough then that has likely ruined the new alt too. These are easy to burn out when used to charge a run down battery, the alt paperwork specifically voids warranty over it alone. Entirely likely the last battery went bad and then popped the original alt out as well, when they usually go out. The alts on these are so prissy about not wanting to be overloaded it's not funny. I used to sell the alts too.

Last edited by amc49; 03-29-2019 at 02:25 AM.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelpleva View Post
By full charge I mean there is enough charge to run everything in the car that it should at least crank or click but it isnít even clicking.
Do you have a voltmeter? What is the voltage at the battery terminals?

Paul
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Old 03-30-2019, 05:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelpleva View Post
By full charge I mean there is enough charge to run everything in the car that it should at least crank or click but it isn’t even clicking.
Do you have a voltmeter? What is the voltage at the battery terminals?

Paul
So, good news and bad news. Her 20v #9 fuse was blown. Used mine and it cranked for a second and the fuse blew. The crank was the good part. The fuse blowing was the bad part.

Doesn’t that mean there’s a short?
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