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Old 03-21-2019, 12:13 AM   #11
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Can't say on MAF, which sometimes are so wonky they need to be changed to really know.

The exhaust timing changing only a couple of degrees won't affect spit, engine doesn't see that small an amount. That person was in error. The Contour with exhaust VCT moves the exhaust around 10 degrees all day long (retard, how the EGR gets more exhaust gas to intake to work) with no issue and the SVT moves intake even more than that I think. The question becomes one of not just 10 degrees but WHICH 10 degrees, if close to limits that will be an issue but if within a running range then really no effect at all.

Heavy exhaust smell says too rich or incomplete ignition. Low compression can do the same as ignition, you must have squeeze to burn all mixture with speed. Maybe a compression check is in order. Dying at dropping to idle is often an earmark of low compression.
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:19 AM   #12
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Just a thought, I had a similar issue on a '00 zx3 5spd

When clutched on coast down the engine would sometime idle so low and sometimes die, others it would rev up to ~3k on it's own

My issue turned out to be a dirty IAC, took some carb cleaner to it and it was good to go...
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Old 03-21-2019, 08:44 PM   #13
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Did you see my comment concerning the CPPS? I would think a functional issue with that would throw a DTC but you never know. Worth checking out.

Good luck
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Old 03-21-2019, 08:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smalls89 View Post
Just a thought, I had a similar issue on a '00 zx3 5spd

When clutched on coast down the engine would sometime idle so low and sometimes die, others it would rev up to ~3k on it's own

My issue turned out to be a dirty IAC, took some carb cleaner to it and it was good to go...
I will probably end up doing it tomorrow.
I planned on doing it today, but, I ended up trying a bunch of other things first with no better result.



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Old 03-21-2019, 09:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
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Did you see my comment concerning the CPPS? I would think a functional issue with that would throw a DTC but you never know. Worth checking out.

Good luck
Paul
I'm sorry, I had somehow missed that one.
I can't recall what CPPS is.

I tried a few other things today.
Checked plugs, plug wires, coil, valve cover,
drove with MAF disconnected (ran like crap that way),
reset ecu and followed the Ford relearn idling then driving procedures,
Took mental notes of vacuum behavior,
Every sensor reaponds on the Torque app as it should.

A key thing I found was that my charging voltage on the app showed only 12.7V while running, so I metered the car while running and got a totally different reading of 14.6V at the battery.

With the car off, the battery measured 12.9 at the terminals.

This seems high to me, and, the discrepancy between the app voltage vs metering at the battery makes me wonder.

Another oddity:
I swapped in a battery from my svtf that was sitting at 12.2V metered at the terminals.

I haven't started it with yet.

The oddity is that, I fired up the voltage on the ODO in test mode, and the same battery that reads 12.2V at the terminals reads 11.6V on the ODO, so, I suspected the ECU ground, or any of the grounds, but, they are all nice and clean and solid.

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Old 03-21-2019, 09:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Can't say on MAF, which sometimes are so wonky they need to be changed to really know.

The exhaust timing changing only a couple of degrees won't affect spit, engine doesn't see that small an amount. That person was in error. The Contour with exhaust VCT moves the exhaust around 10 degrees all day long (retard, how the EGR gets more exhaust gas to intake to work) with no issue and the SVT moves intake even more than that I think. The question becomes one of not just 10 degrees but WHICH 10 degrees, if close to limits that will be an issue but if within a running range then really no effect at all.

Heavy exhaust smell says too rich or incomplete ignition. Low compression can do the same as ignition, you must have squeeze to burn all mixture with speed. Maybe a compression check is in order. Dying at dropping to idle is often an earmark of low compression.
Yooooo.
So, I got back at it again today.

Each of the things I did, I tested the car with that change alone, then put the car back the way it was after observing no difference in behavior.

I checked the TB and all looks good.

Wiped it all out anyway, but, it was all very clean from the last time I did it.

Checked plugs, plug wires, valve cover, wiring and connectors for a short or disconnected harness.

Drove with MAF disconnected, immediately threw a code and ran crappy.

Reset ECU, then followed Ford's idle and driving procedure.
It actually tries to catch itself at 100rpm instead of just dying after the ECU reset, but, it will try several times lobbing up and down from 100rpm to idle level and then croak, so long as I'm going over 40mph.

If I'm going under 40-45mph and push in the clutch now, it will hold, since the reset.

So, the problem is roughly 20% better, but still dies right away if I'm going over 45mph and push in the clutch.

A curious thing: My ODO voltage reads .5V lower than the battery meters at the terminals, even though all of my grounds and battery connections are clean and tight.

I unhooked them all anyway to verify how the contact points looked, and all was shiny.

I remember that my ODO voltage always reads a little lower than metering at the terminals, but, I thought I remembered it only being half of that of a difference, like, .3V at the most.

Maybe it was that much though.

My battery metered 14.6V at the terminals while running, but, at the same time, the Torque app was reporting only 12.6V while running.

That's the first time I've ever seen the app read differently that the car itself reads on the ODO.

One more thing of note: The car idles worse now after the ECU reset.

Before the reset, the idle was smooth and steady.

Now the idle has a faint misfire or sputter to it.
It is also idling a little lower than it was before reset.

Before reset it held a perfect 750.

Now it flutters around 600.
This is after I did the idling and driving procedures.



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Last edited by cheap sleeper; 03-21-2019 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 05-23-2019, 02:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
Yooooo.
So, I got back at it again today.

Each of the things I did, I tested the car with that change alone, then put the car back the way it was after observing no difference in behavior.

I checked the TB and all looks good.

Wiped it all out anyway, but, it was all very clean from the last time I did it.

Checked plugs, plug wires, valve cover, wiring and connectors for a short or disconnected harness.

Drove with MAF disconnected, immediately threw a code and ran crappy.

Reset ECU, then followed Ford's idle and driving procedure.
It actually tries to catch itself at 100rpm instead of just dying after the ECU reset, but, it will try several times lobbing up and down from 100rpm to idle level and then croak, so long as I'm going over 40mph.

If I'm going under 40-45mph and push in the clutch now, it will hold, since the reset.

So, the problem is roughly 20% better, but still dies right away if I'm going over 45mph and push in the clutch.

A curious thing: My ODO voltage reads .5V lower than the battery meters at the terminals, even though all of my grounds and battery connections are clean and tight.

I unhooked them all anyway to verify how the contact points looked, and all was shiny.

I remember that my ODO voltage always reads a little lower than metering at the terminals, but, I thought I remembered it only being half of that of a difference, like, .3V at the most.

Maybe it was that much though.

My battery metered 14.6V at the terminals while running, but, at the same time, the Torque app was reporting only 12.6V while running.

That's the first time I've ever seen the app read differently that the car itself reads on the ODO.

One more thing of note: The car idles worse now after the ECU reset.

Before the reset, the idle was smooth and steady.

Now the idle has a faint misfire or sputter to it.
It is also idling a little lower than it was before reset.

Before reset it held a perfect 750.

Now it flutters around 600.
This is after I did the idling and driving procedures.



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having the same issue here but with a 05 duratec, car has the same exact symptoms as yours accept my focus has a u1900 code and a p0104 code. Im guessing bad pcm? car runs fine, has a slight misfire/ sputter during cold idle, once warmed up she idles just fine. mine only seems to stall when getting off of highways. as soon as i push the clutch in from going between 55-70 mph or so the rpm tach either falls like a rock straight down to zero or she drops down to about 100 and tries to bring herself back up to idle.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Trevorzx4 View Post
having the same issue here but with a 05 duratec, car has the same exact symptoms as yours accept my focus has a u1900 code and a p0104 code. Im guessing bad pcm? car runs fine, has a slight misfire/ sputter during cold idle, once warmed up she idles just fine. mine only seems to stall when getting off of highways. as soon as i push the clutch in from going between 55-70 mph or so the rpm tach either falls like a rock straight down to zero or she drops down to about 100 and tries to bring herself back up to idle.
I have, of course, read that it could be the IAC.
Mine doesn't rev up when the A/C is activated.
Maybe we both need the dang thing.

I just didn't want to blame that, since I've never needed to change one in any of my Foci.

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Old 05-25-2019, 02:36 AM   #19
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Has anybody tried to bump open the TB a little bit more like I said a long time ago? That alone will modify the way the engine drops to idle at letting off the throttle.

On the fumey exhaust thing I believe somebody said the downstream O2 was dead for years, may have killed or clogged the converter.
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:06 AM   #20
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All I ever read is 'leave it the hell alone' suggestions.

Having the same problem with my daily and think it may be a blown fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Has anybody tried to bump open the TB a little bit more like I said a long time ago? That alone will modify the way the engine drops to idle at letting off the throttle.

On the fumey exhaust thing I believe somebody said the downstream O2 was dead for years, may have killed or clogged the converter.
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