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Old 03-22-2019, 10:50 AM   #11
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Forgot to mention maybe an important info. The coolant seems to "dissapear" to about the minimum mark on the tank in a day or so, and then it just stays there, it doesnt continue to dissapear further, just stays for months at the exact same mark.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:55 PM   #12
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If you have a crack at that exact level well of course it might do that...........
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Old 03-25-2019, 05:11 AM   #13
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Engine cold, the coolant level is at about the MIN mark, when Engine hot it rises to about the MAX mark, so if it was a crack bellow I think it would go on leaking even further.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:55 PM   #14
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Have you tried tightening the cap like amc49 said? Sounds like hes right imo.

People see they are losing coolant and instantly want to pressure test the system, but doing that involves taking the cap off so if that's the issue you'll never see it with the pressure test.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:55 PM   #15
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Have you tried tightening the cap like amc49 said? Sounds like hes right imo.

People see they are losing coolant and instantly want to pressure test the system, but doing that involves taking the cap off so if that's the issue you'll never see it with the pressure test.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:14 PM   #16
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You actually test for pressure at removing the cap if paying attention. Kill a well warmed engine and then wait 120 seconds and pop cap, if you get pressure rushing out then not that.
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Old 03-26-2019, 05:22 AM   #17
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Put back the old oem cap back on. Seems like a somewhat tighter fit than the new one, couldnt test since could get temp only up to 212, no bubbling, but it usually happened in 220+ territory. Will try to take it up to that temp tomorrow
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:45 AM   #18
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My cousins focus had a issue like this, replaced cooling components, ended up being something not turning the fan on we set the fan to always on and the problem went away not sure what was causing it.
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:05 PM   #19
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Okay, so I drive a car that is known to have head gasket issues, so "bubbling in the overflow tank" is kind of triggery.

So things that I have picked up about cooling system problems:

Bubbling is never good. If the coolant is boiling, then the system is not properly under pressure. If you are getting exhaust gasses into the cooling jacket, then you have serious issues that need immediate attention.

The coolant in the reservoir will seldom go below the "min" mark, because that's usually where the pickup is that draws it back into the radiator/cooling jacket. If it fills (and overfills) the reservoir while running and keeps spilling coolant, that means that the system is drawing air, and then circulating that air through the cooling jacket, and expelling good coolant. This has to be addressed if you want to keep your engine.

So...

Step 1. You need to check that the system is full of coolant, and not air. If the reservoir is still low when the engine is warm, give it coolant and let it draw some in. Repeat as necessary, until the coolant reservoir continues to have coolant in it.

Step 2. Get a block test kit, or some litmus paper. Acidic coolant (pH < 7.0) is often indicative of excessive carbon dioxide in the coolant, often from exhaust gasses, and can indicate a bad head gasket. This is more certain than oil in the coolant (Or coolant in the oil) This must be done after a few heat/cooling cycles to ensure that you're testing coolant that has gone through the system a few times. If you've found a problem here, you're looking to get major engine work done, at least a new head gasket. If you have had coolant in the oil, you'll need to work with that, too, as the acidic coolant will damage bearings.

Okay, so the system is full, and your coolant isn't acidic. Yay. You've probably got a bad pressure valve. As stated, normal engine operating temperature is generally above the boiling point of the coolant, so it needs to remain under pressure. The cylinder head and sleeves are often MUCH hotter than the coolant, and when you shut off the engine, the water pump stops. This can cause localized boiling of the coolant in the cylinder head and bock, though this should NEVER mean bubbles into the reservoir, unless Ford has done something really weird.

Most cars no longer have a radiator cap per se, they have a pressure valve at the upper radiator tank that siphons off excess coolant to the reservoir. This valve is to keep the cooling system at adequate pressure to prevent boiling in normal operation and allow the coolant to expand into the reservoir, and then draw it back into the system when it cools.

Cooling system issues should always be high priority. Aside from the oil pump/pressure system, this is one of the fastest ways to turn an engine block into a lump of scrap metal.
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Old 04-01-2019, 07:03 AM   #20
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Thanks for the replies. Since I put back the old stock reservoir cap back on, it has risen to 220 and seems fine.
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