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Old 02-03-2019, 01:59 AM   #1
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clutch master cylinder main line from hell/line measurements?

2007, 2.0 S, 5-speed:

I began trying to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder over the past two
days. I cannot remove the main hydraulic line from the existing clutch master
cylinder. I have removed both retaining pins, soaked the parts in PBlaster and
some brake fluid, and have pulled, pushed, pryed, and picked for about 8 hours total. I have managed to open a gap about the width of a penny.
I really do not wish to have to cut it, or have the car towed to a shop.

I realize it would be wise to replace the line. I am certainly considering towing it to a shop to fix a new line because I do not have the special tools or know the measurements of the main line to do it myself. I do not wish to go through this hassle again should I have to replace another leaking clutch master cylinder again.

Does anyone have any advice? I do not want to give up.

As for Plan B, I looked into this Forum for possible clutch master cylinder line measurements. I assumed they would be the same as brake lines, so I read Zetec brake lines were 3/16". Is 3/16 safe to assume for CMC lines? Can this be confirmed, please.

I am at my wits end. Any suggestions and advice is appreciated.



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Old 02-03-2019, 06:45 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant07 View Post
2007, 2.0 S, 5-speed:

I began trying to replace my leaking clutch master cylinder over the past two
days. I cannot remove the main hydraulic line from the existing clutch master
cylinder. I have removed both retaining pins, soaked the parts in PBlaster and
some brake fluid, and have pulled, pushed, pryed, and picked for about 8 hours total. I have managed to open a gap about the width of a penny.
I really do not wish to have to cut it, or have the car towed to a shop.

I realize it would be wise to replace the line. I am certainly considering towing it to a shop to fix a new line because I do not have the special tools or know the measurements of the main line to do it myself. I do not wish to go through this hassle again should I have to replace another leaking clutch master cylinder again.

Does anyone have any advice? I do not want to give up.

As for Plan B, I looked into this Forum for possible clutch master cylinder line measurements. I assumed they would be the same as brake lines, so I read Zetec brake lines were 3/16". Is 3/16 safe to assume for CMC lines? Can this be confirmed, please.

I am at my wits end. Any suggestions and advice is appreciated.
If you mean the lower line that runs to the clutch, there is a line holder just below where the line leaves the MC.

It will usually fight you if you don't have the line out of the holder, but, sometimes the holder has helped me pull more straight out the line and pop it out easier.
Try both ways.

It will dislodge and pop out.
When it finally does, it will probably do so easily.
They are just weird like that.

If you pull on it with any slight angle at all in your force, it will not pull out; you must pull perfectly straight.

Just stay calm and cool and give it only a little rotation back and forth while you pull perfectly straight out.



If the MC is loose from the firewall, it will be tough to do as well.

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Old 02-03-2019, 06:47 AM   #3
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Also, make sure you have your fuse box out of the way so you are approaching it from directly above.

Apologies if you're already doing so.

Just trying to think of what can hose that job.

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Old 02-03-2019, 06:52 AM   #4
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And of course, take your pick and really triple check yourself that you do indeed have the clip out of that one.





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Old 02-03-2019, 10:43 AM   #5
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Thanks for your replies.

The fuse box, battery tray, and transmission mounts are out. I have removed the C clips. I even thought there might be two somehow so I blindly felt the underside with a pick to be sure there are no other retainers.

I have tried to pull as straight as possible initially, but I did just go nuts on it after it would not budge. The line holder came out first without me having to intentionally remove it. The CMC was bolted on still, but now there is play and clicking sounds if I push the line in and out as if I have stripped something. I am not sure. I will keep trying.

Anyone think there is a way to remove from the inside?
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:00 PM   #6
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This report is delayed, so I will conclude this thread.

After many attempts, I ended up the disconnecting the lower hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder using a dime, quarter, nickel and dollar coin. As stupid as it sounds, it worked. I worked the dime and wedged it to make an increasing gap between the hydraulic line until they started to bend out of shape. Then I used slightly-angled needle nose pliers and continued wedging back and forth until it finally disconnected with one last yank. It was not the o-ring that created such a hassle, but bloated rust. I have a picture but I cannot upload at the moment.

I advise those who are going dealing with rusted hydraulic line connections to just cut the damn thing out with the clutch master cylinder because Ford only sells the complete hydraulic line (slave cylinder to c.m.c) as one part despite the three connection points, unless you wanna be a clown like me and test the usefulness of a dime! honk honk

Also, I coated the male ends and c-clips with some anti-seize at the thickest part to avoid contaminated the brake fluid (male end tapers in). This is not recommended, but I do not ever want to go through that crap again should the c.m.c fail in the future. So far so good. If the risk I took were to be a problem, I expect it to be after quite some time. I will update if I ever find contamination in the brake fluid.

Last edited by ant07; 04-29-2019 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:58 PM   #7
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Good job. Can you share the Ford part number of the line you used?

Thanks
Paul
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:12 PM   #8
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3S4Z-7A512-CA
&
5S4Z-7A512-AA

all the c-clips were included

and i forgot to mention on my last post that pay extra attention to how you remove the c-clips. when you replace the clip, you should not feel like you have to force them in.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant07 View Post
3S4Z-7A512-CA
&
5S4Z-7A512-AA

all the c-clips were included

and i forgot to mention on my last post that pay extra attention to how you remove the c-clips. when you replace the clip, you should not feel like you have to force them in.
Which pn line is for what function?

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2019, 01:03 AM   #10
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hydraulic line between slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder for 2005-2007 focus.

i do not know if older focus have the same setup.

https://wholesale.tasca.com/graphics...Z7A512AA/8.jpg

Last edited by ant07; 04-27-2019 at 01:15 AM.
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