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Old 09-11-2018, 02:33 PM   #1
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2000 ford focus fuel pump retaining ring

I need to know whether the retaining ring has a gasket. I'm referring to the blue plastic cap that screws onto the fuel tank. We changed the fuel pump last year and I don't remember seeing one. It doesn't currently have one. Problem is that after changing the fuel pump it sprung an evap leak code and it smells like gas in the car, especially after filling the tank.

In:
https://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...leak-help.html

ImInHell says
"The retaining ring for the fuel pump module has a gasket, actually it goes ring, module top plate, gasket, fuel tank."

There is a green gasket where ImInHell says there is, but it isn't clear to me whether there is another one that goes onto the retaining ring itself.

I searched through youtube for videos but can't find any where one shows the complete disassembly or reassembly. The closest I found is:
Where you can see a largish o-ring gasket off to the top right. Is this what I need? Anyone have a part number? Would gasket maker do the job?

I inspected the gasket that's on the top plate and it seems fine to me. What I did was re-tighten the retainer as tight as It could go and It doesn't seem to smell like gas anymore after filling it. I don't think it was as tight as it could've been before, but anyway, I'd love to get this evap code fixed. There is no visible signs of fuel leaks fyi.


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Old 09-11-2018, 07:02 PM   #2
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That one lying on floor to the right and colored green is it. ONE gasket only like he says. In the exact order he states too.

When you remove the ring the tank opening often goes eggshape because it is plastic exposed to fuel which softens it to warp over time. Meaning the ring can be fits to get back down 100% tight as the threads become interference type due to the warping. You may need to get a large set of pliers to thread the ring down the last bit, you WILL know when you have hit 100% bottomed and the only way not to have a leak there. If you simply let how tight the ring has gotten fool you you will have leak city there even with a gasket on it as it is not tight to crush it to seal.
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Last edited by amc49; 09-11-2018 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:05 PM   #3
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Thanks you're a life saver. I do smell gas in the car now @ fill up. If it wasn't for this damned hurricane I wouldn't have done that. I imagine an rtv that is supposed to be fuel resistant won't do the trick and it'll make a pita anyway given the location and potential cleanup should I have to take it off again. I kinda need it soon and no one stocks this gasket locally, sigh.
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Old 09-12-2018, 05:55 PM   #4
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There is no such thing as an RTV sealer that is fuel resistant. The o-ring is square cut but possibly a round one might serve if you can tighten down on it without it squeezing out of place. Round say from hardware or plumbing store.
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Old 03-30-2019, 09:00 PM   #5
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So I finally got around to do this. I was told that cg-803 is correct for my car; however, as shown in the attached photo, it doesn't fit, nice. I guess it's to the hardware store with this piece of crap.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:26 AM   #6
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Throw it in some fuel and it may expand quickly, don't leave it too long. Dry ones shrink OD. And clean it up, you are begging for a leak with all that trash in the grooves there.

The top pump cover also holds it in place, it stretches it out.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:49 AM   #7
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Ya that's jb weld, i needed something sticky to try and hold it in place while I quickly tried to put it on, but after a few tries, fail.

Doesn't look like the gas is affecting this gasket much, I don't know what it is made of. I tried stretching it and putting in, dunked ring and gasket together in with the gas, it just shrinks back up. Tried boiling the gasket for a minute, then putting it in, still just shrinks back to the way it was. It's probably too small anyway even with gas absorption. Maybe if I stretch it until it feels like it's going to rip...

I really don't want to use a gasket maker type stuff like permatex solvent-based and make a mess especially with this pos AutoZone over-priced after market fuel pump that'll probably die soon anyway, but I doubt anyone's going to have a suitable gasket for this. wtf.
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:58 AM   #8
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Alright, I wound up putting the gasket on top of the sending unit and put the retaining ring over that and just used a screw driver to keep the gasket wedged under the ring. I suppose maybe that is how you're supposed to do it. I really don't know and don't remember seeing anything in the guides or even the videos that show exactly how it is done properly.

It seems tight around the circumference (as in gasket is squished), maybe one end the gasket is a little less squished, probably from ring warpage. I banged on it as hard as I could with a rubber mallet and a big long flat head screwdriver from about a 45 degree angle and pushed on it as hard as I could from a 90 degree angle with the mallet. I did that for a few minutes _after it wouldn't budge any further_ so I'm assuming it went in all the way, I can't get it any further.

Are all cars this much of a pita to seal a fuel pump?

Thank you for your help!
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Old 04-01-2019, 04:36 AM   #9
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Doh, noticed that one of the o-rings got sliced somehow while re-inserting the fuel line to the module. Wish that whole assembly was replaced instead of replacing just the pump.

No leaks though, I'm almost of the mind to leave it as-is as the red tabbed connector is getting a bit beat up from taking it off and on a few times, but my gut tells me I need to find some new o-rings. Lemme guess, it'll be about $10+ for two new ones.
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:09 PM   #10
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You likely won't find the yellow one.

No matter, look for fuel rated ones colored brown like the one is and use 2 of them.

If no leaks leave it alone, the extra is simply a backup one. Don't take the bad one off and leave off though, it is also a spacer to keep the other one sealed up. Supposed to be a third solid plastic ring in there too.

That connector was made to be a big money maker for Ford. It has 3 tongues and almost impossible to get off. If you get a $3 pair of junk Harbor Freight needlenose pliers that look like kid's toy, you can bend both the tips inwards a little to clear the connector body and use the pliers then to depress the outside two tangs of the connector while using a pick to depress the top facing one. The connector then comes out instantly and easily with zero damage.
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