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Old 06-05-2019, 10:48 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by zacautomotive View Post
If it was my car personally I would throw in the cheapest OEM plain jane clutch set I could get and see if it works. You're so focused on the hydraulic issue but you're not focused on your actual potential pressure plate or clutch disc issue. I don't care if the OEM style clutch set won't deal with the power output at this point you have absolutely nothing to lose just try it. My Brother had a weak leaking clutch master cylinder and he could still shift fine.

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I would agree with trying that idea if I hadn't already had the exact same symptom with the original working clutch setup reinstalled first.

My whole clutch set up worked fine.
Engine blew, I took the engine out, left the trans in place.

Had FW resurfaced correctly (and specs verified even recently again).

Put it all back in, perfect pedal pressure, no air in the line, slave moves witht he entire range of the pedal travel, but clutch won't release from FW.

Put on brand new FW, and matching components intended for this car, exact same symptom.

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Old 06-06-2019, 02:01 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
I would agree with trying that idea if I hadn't already had the exact same symptom with the original working clutch setup reinstalled first.

My whole clutch set up worked fine.
Engine blew, I took the engine out, left the trans in place.

Had FW resurfaced correctly (and specs verified even recently again).

Put it all back in, perfect pedal pressure, no air in the line, slave moves witht he entire range of the pedal travel, but clutch won't release from FW.

Put on brand new FW, and matching components intended for this car, exact same symptom.

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Ive read thru this thread and your new 'washer' thread. Interesting issue.

So when you put is back together the first time after the engine blew the flywheel, PP, and slave were the same parts that were working previously?

Did you rebuild the existing engine or get a new engine?

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Old 06-06-2019, 02:50 PM   #53
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To limeyrider at post #49................

'...When I unboxed everything I 'checked' the slave cylinder like a doofus and pushed the bearing by hand to make sure it wouldn't bind... NOW I'm reading that doing that could damage or invert the internal seal...'

I wouldn't worry about that, going the OTHER way, or over-extension bearing coming OUT is what will get you in trouble. It is expected that at install or even before somebody will push the bearing back or it contacts the clutch at install (rocking trans to settle it in place) to do the same.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:36 PM   #54
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Yes sir.
Since the clutch worked great and had tons of life left on it, I reused everything.

Only thing about the engine that is different is the block is an SVT now.

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Ive read thru this thread and your new 'washer' thread. Interesting issue.

So when you put is back together the first time after the engine blew the flywheel, PP, and slave were the same parts that were working previously?

Did you rebuild the existing engine or get a new engine?

Paul
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:14 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
Yes sir.
Since the clutch worked great and had tons of life left on it, I reused everything.

Only thing about the engine that is different is the block is an SVT now.



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After reading thru both of your threads it seems to me that all you issues started when you changed engines. Is it possible there is a difference between the distance on the block-to-bell flange on the SVT block vs the original block and this is causing the dimensional issue you have (ie making the bell/slave farther away from the PP)?

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Old 07-06-2019, 08:45 PM   #56
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I had wondered about that, but everyone who has verified agrees that the SVT and Zetec cranks are identical in all dimensions.
I can tell that my machinists didn't take any material off of the mating surface of the snout.
I think washers behind the slave is going to do the trick.
Will hopefully get to it this week now that I'm slowing down for the season.
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After reading thru both of your threads it seems to me that all you issues started when you changed engines. Is it possible there is a difference between the distance on the block-to-bell flange on the SVT block vs the original block and this is causing the dimensional issue you have (ie making the bell/slave farther away from the PP)?

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Old 07-06-2019, 08:50 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by cheap sleeper View Post
I had wondered about that, but everyone who has verified agrees that the SVT and Zetec cranks are identical in all dimensions.
Re-read what I wrote - I wasnt refering to the crank. The issue I was asking about had to do with the block. The block is what the bellhousing mounts to.

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Old 07-06-2019, 09:03 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Re-read what I wrote - I wasnt refering to the crank. The issue I was asking about had to do with the block. The block is what the bellhousing mounts to.

Paul
Gotcha.
Blocks are supposedly the same dimensions too.

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Old 07-06-2019, 09:31 PM   #59
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Gotcha.
Blocks are supposedly the same dimensions too.
If the flange on the block you are using now is deeper (longer) then your bellhousing and slave will be further from the flywheel/clutch. Do you still have the old block to compare?

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Old 07-06-2019, 09:36 PM   #60
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I do.
I'll look at that first when I get to it this week.
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If the flange on the block you are using now is deeper (longer) then your bellhousing and slave will be further from the flywheel/clutch. Do you still have the old block to compare?

Paul
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