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Old 04-29-2019, 08:32 PM   #31
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Hello Felix,
When the engine blew, the clutch was fine.
So initially, when I got everything back together, I reused the working FW and FX350.
Had anice pedal, but no disengagement.

Tried to drive it and force the issue, didn't work and found my friction pads ripped ofof the disc when I took it back apart.

Now
I'm on a 2nd OEM FW (brand new)

2nd slave cylinder (same brand from Oriellys both times though)

2nd Master Cylinder

New Clutch Xperts 330lb PP and stage 5 friction disc.

I get the same good pedal pressure as the first setup, still no engagement.

Gonna try a 3rd MC from a different company I guess, since I have no idea what to try next.

I can't believe this car.

I've never had any of these problems doing clutches on my other zx3s.
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Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
I looked thru your thread, So what Flywheel, PP, disc & throwout are you using?
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:06 PM   #32
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Oh wow, I kept thinking you had a svt...I'd be looking at the PP & disc, do they work w/ a oem flywheel or their specific flywheel?
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:20 PM   #33
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I have an svt too, but with a regular zetec engine mated to the 6speed.
My boosted zx3 is my issue though.

I had the same good pedal pressure with lots of slave cylinder movement through the entire pedal range with the other PP too. And it was the one that was working fine when I had to pull the motor.

The PPs are just OEM design with a hardened spring.

I can faintly hear the slave moving from the very top of the pedal onwards, so, it definitely moves.

So, same good pedal pressure as before, only still dosen't
disengage.
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Oh wow, I kept thinking you had a svt...I'd be looking at the PP & disc, do they work w/ a oem flywheel or their specific flywheel?
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:43 PM   #34
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If the crank thrust main bearing is worn enough could be that too. That usually damages the crank sensor first.

The problem I mentioned earlier about clutch drag to not release..............we found back in those days that a lot of diaphragm type PPs can be pushed in TOO far and they then begin to grab the disc again when they go way overcenter.

Need to clarify, you say disengagement and engagement in the same post (#31) and won't do either.

330 lb. PP? We used to use 2600-3900 lb. PP. Shows how things change. That 330 may only be the basic spring rate not multiplied by the cubic inch of clutch area.
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:04 PM   #35
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Hey man.
Yes, the 330lb number I put I was referring to what crank torque it's rated for is all.
It is still an oem PP but with temered springs to raise the rating. (Says the rep anyway)

But, I already had a PP that was working fine when the engine blew, and when I tried it again, I got the same decent pedal pressure, could hear the slave moving with pedal action, but no release, exactly the same as the all the new clutch components act now.
All new everything, and no change.

I wondered about thrust, but, mine has practically no thrust play and has brand new bearings.

I did read where some folks (on other car forums) complained of too much travel.
Most of them reported being able to find a spot in the pedal travel where the clutch would release, but, mine won't release at any position. Womp womp.

I didn't use the .002" debris divider plates that live between the engine and trans, but, I'm pretty sure it didn't have them when everything was together and working before the engine popped.

I may try to source them on ebay and fit them in.
I don't expect that ~.002" - .004" separation to matter, but... eh.

After that if no joy I may swap a different brand MC into it and see if it was just 2 bad ones in a row.

Don't really know what else to do at this point.

Thanks for throwing more ideas my way, sir!

Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
If the crank thrust main bearing is worn enough could be that too. That usually damages the crank sensor first.

The problem I mentioned earlier about clutch drag to not release..............we found back in those days that a lot of diaphragm type PPs can be pushed in TOO far and they then begin to grab the disc again when they go way overcenter.

Need to clarify, you say disengagement and engagement in the same post (#31) and won't do either.

330 lb. PP? We used to use 2600-3900 lb. PP. Shows how things change. That 330 may only be the basic spring rate not multiplied by the cubic inch of clutch area.
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Last edited by cheap sleeper; 05-01-2019 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:27 PM   #36
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You think it could be because of my SVT crank I put in it now?
It was a regular zetec in this car before the engine rebuild.
I've always thought the Svt and Zetec cranks have identical dimension specs, even if the SVT one is hardened, so, I figured the snouts would have the same thickness/ dimensions.
I wonder if they are actually different.

I could swear I've read of guys swapping in SVT blocks with no other physical change and they didn't report a problem that I can remember.
Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
If the crank thrust main bearing is worn enough could be that too. That usually damages the crank sensor first.

The problem I mentioned earlier about clutch drag to not release..............we found back in those days that a lot of diaphragm type PPs can be pushed in TOO far and they then begin to grab the disc again when they go way overcenter.

Need to clarify, you say disengagement and engagement in the same post (#31) and won't do either.

330 lb. PP? We used to use 2600-3900 lb. PP. Shows how things change. That 330 may only be the basic spring rate not multiplied by the cubic inch of clutch area.
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Last edited by cheap sleeper; 05-03-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:13 PM   #37
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If you are moving the TOB with no contact you hear it but when it hits solid you may not be actually moving it then to activate the PP. Meaning only enough pressure to move TOB with nothing against it = air in lines. You say you seem to feel the TOB pushing down on the PP though. Maybe moving PP slightly?

.002" divider plate = tinfoil, I expect you mean at least .020" there and maybe more, most are over that. That gone would be MORE engagement of the TOB.

There is no magic there, if you cannot find the issue you MUST measure for operating distance to weed out the variable.

Assuming trans is not broken in some way.

Tom has said the cranks are the same.
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Last edited by amc49; 05-04-2019 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   #38
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Went researching and ran into so much Focus zetec clutch doubletalk I would be pulling trans to measure myself. One more reason to loathe hydro TOBs. I'll take manual all day long.
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Last edited by amc49; 05-04-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:04 PM   #39
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Wow - this is a very interesting problem and thread. Please be sure to post your final resolution.
Thanks,
Monoblanco
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:52 PM   #40
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I pulled my endoscope out today and watched the slave while I pushed the clutch pedal.
It appears to be doing its full travel.
Of course, it could be coming up short of what's needed, but it travels a proper looking amount.
It's definitely pushing the springs in.
I am tempted to buy a different brand/ style slave and MC in hopes that one of these in the car now is faulty/ not good enough design from NIB.
Quote:
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Went researching and ran into so much Focus zetec clutch doubletalk I would be pulling trans to measure myself. One more reason to loathe hydro TOBs. I'll take manual all day long.
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Last edited by cheap sleeper; 05-16-2019 at 12:55 PM.
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