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Old 05-22-2019, 10:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jdub1974 View Post
OK L200B,

Can we get an update on the JB Weld repair?

You won't. Not because there isn't a followup - but because the OP isn't going to show up here and admit what I already posted on this thread - that the JB weld stories mostly never work.

There is only one factory authorized type of repair on these and that is to use
an insert. Timesert is the one Ford favors, I believe. If the threads are just stripped to the point a helicoil won't work that's OK the inserts hog out more material than a helicoil tap and there probably is still enough material in the hole for an insert to hold.

If you have access with a drill you can try an insert. Otherwise the head needs to come off and go to a shop which can fill the plug hole with aluminum welding then drill and tap a new plug hole, no insert needed.

The helicoil repair is a specialized repair that generally only works properly when the head is removed and in a jig so that the helicoil tap can be driven into the hole at a precise dead on.

And my engine with that repair in it is still going strong, by the way.

The JB Weld guys are mainly looking for a repair that will hold just long enough to be able to sell the car off on to some unsuspecting suckaaa

The quicker you quit thrashing around looking for a shortcut repair on this the faster it will get done, you know. Why are you so afraid of pulling the head? I can tell you, you probably will be better off with a repaired head, a fresh head gasket, new timing belt, light valve lapping (which can be done since the head is off the engine) than getting some junkyard piece-o-yit engine that the prior owner has probably already done a JB weld repair on one of the spark plug holes that you don't know about.

And even if you go the insert route, it is still better done with the head off the engine in a jig, so the area can be flooded with cutting oil when the insert is driven in, and the insert can go straight in and the cutting chips can then be washed away. Far better than the barnyard method of of standing on top of the engine trying to center a drill "by eye" and trying to get the chips out by coating the threads of the insert with grease and hoping the chips all stick (or blowing compressed air down there hoping to get all the chips out)

It's human nature when something breaks to panic and think "I gotta get this POS back together tomorrow so I can drive to work there has GOT to be some quick and dirty way to do it"

But a plug hole repair is a major repair no matter what they say. At WOT that cylinder is probably at 1000psi after ignition so the plug has a half a ton of force trying to spit it out of the hole. Probably more actually. Glue isn't going to hold it in.
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Old 05-22-2019, 12:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jdub1974 View Post
Expecting only 250K on this motor, I figure if I have to remove the head at this point then I probably should just get a Reman'd motor for a swap, or overhaul this motor COMPLETELY if I have to do this.
If your engine was running well before this, I wouldn't drop $2500+ for a reman (plus labor to install) on a car with 180K miles. Fix / replace the head.
5spd w/Steeda STB, e-RMM, Snorkel Delete w/K&N, 120K+ miles
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Old 05-22-2019, 05:15 PM   #13
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'...that the JB weld stories mostly never work.'

X2. Because like with so many other things, the issue is not the product, it is the implementation that fails the job. So many do not grasp that.

Beyond that, that post sounds scarily like one of my own. Do you have a more irascible cloned brother?

Man, I heard so many glue fix stories when I used to sell JB that I knew the majority of them were fake, and you could see the obvious need to work dripping off the desperate in a flood, they believed more than they did in the Messiah. Great product used correctly but the human brain behind it must be correct too.

Last edited by amc49; 05-22-2019 at 05:22 PM.
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