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Old 06-04-2017, 05:57 PM   #1
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Yet another swirl flaps thread... cheapest easiest fix?

Hi all. I have a 2005 ZX4 with the 2.0L. So I've got the "swirl flaps of death" problem. The engine was making a pretty bad ticking noise, so after some research it turned out to be the swirl flaps that are in the intake runners.

So I got the intake off the car, and the swirl flaps are out. They were indeed screwed. So how exactly, can I put it back together without them? I've read a few threads here, where people say you need to epoxy up the holes after you remove the swirl flaps.

So is there anything else? What is the procedure to do this without getting any check engine codes? I can't really afford to purchase a new intake, and it does seem like a lot of people just remove the swirl flaps and never look back.


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Old 06-04-2017, 06:26 PM   #2
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Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

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Old 06-04-2017, 09:43 PM   #3
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Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

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Nope, the dtec's have them...Basically to swirl/tumble the air going into the head.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:05 PM   #4
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Here is a pic of the engine. I assume its the DOHC model. I didn't know there were 2 models of the 2.0L. I thought there was only one for 2005. Is the procedure different for the different models? Would it matter about how to delete the swirl flaps?
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:19 PM   #5
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Nope, the dtec's have them...Basically to swirl/tumble the air going into the head.
I see now. I looked it up and seen what that was about. I still have the sohc.

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Old 06-04-2017, 10:23 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bennylava View Post
Here is a pic of the engine. I assume its the SOHC model. I didn't know there were 2 models of the 2.0L. I thought there was only one for 2005. Is the procedure different for the different models? Would it matter about how to delete the swirl flaps?
Try looking at this.

http://www.talkford.com/community/in...-Flaps-Removal


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Old 06-04-2017, 10:26 PM   #7
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There's only one engine for the 2005 focus in the USA/Canada, and it's the DOHC Duratec engine.

Take a look at the long bumps in front & behind the spark plug coils, those cover the two cams.

You can leave the actuator operational to avoid codes, holes that need to be plugged are any that lead to the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold (vacuum leaks).
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:53 PM   #8
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Yeah sorry I meant DOHC. Went back and edited the post to say DOHC.

But thanks to all for the replies. So basically all you do, is seal up all the holes, between each intake runner. Then plug everything back up, like normal.

I was curious about leaving the actuator operation... without it having anything to be able to "actuate". Essentially it can't tell if its actually doing anything, it will just try to move the rod and nothing will happen. Do I have this right so far?

Also, one of my "inserts" (as per the how to guide in the link) crumbled into bits as I was taking it out. Another cracked. I was being careful, I know better than to strong arm stuff like this. But, i guess they had just seen too many heat cycles. Do I have to use the inserts? Given the way I've seen some other manifolds mate up to other engines over the years, I would assume that the answer is no. That you do not actually need those inserts that used to hold onto the flaps. Some manifolds just don't really seem to care about an ultra smooth transition. But I just thought I'd ask.

Last edited by bennylava; 06-04-2017 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 06-05-2017, 08:26 AM   #9
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You'd want to leave the actuator working, as you'll have no cel & its not hurting anything. Like Sailor mentioned above, you'd want to plug all the holes that go to the outside such as the actuator linkage on the drivers side.
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:57 PM   #10
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Thanks guys. You've all been a very big help. I have to say that I was quite relieved to find out that this noise wasn't something wrong with the head.
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