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Old 07-29-2019, 09:44 AM   #31
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Thanks again guys!!

will be looking into getting a 2.3 head and intake, I really need to get on the ball with learning this tuning!!
If your wanting a 23 head......Go w/ a escape 23 i/m which doesn't have the imrc, but still uses the imtv all the 23's use.
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:22 PM   #32
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That's right!! Thanks for the info!! Any specific years??
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:35 AM   #33
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Ok guys! Results are in! She runs amazingly!!! Took a fan relay out and ran wires into the cab, to a switch, it likes to stay at about 178. Love It!! And she just spins the tires off in second!! Haven't done a 0-60 time yet. Was gonna last night but when I went to take I lost tail lights, which turned into a whole nother big thing just to find out that I have been looking at the wrong fuse diagram for the last 2 years!! LMFAO Anyways you guys are a big help!! And was that that said I needed a tune to have a Tune to have my fans kick on when I wanted and for it to run properly?? Save the tune for when you ya do a little more under the hood I say!! There are dirt cheap ways to make More Power!! We just can't forget the old lessons, allot of them will still work! If your willing to put in the effort!!
Until Next Time!!
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Old 10-24-2019, 05:58 PM   #34
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Bear in mind that if you take the fan 'on' signal away from the PCM then you do NOT get the normal idle speed boost the PCM gives when it detects the fans are about to come on. That can result in the idle dropping low to try to die when the fans kick on using whatever artificial method you are using there. BTDT. At 180 degrees the fans will switch on and off maybe 3X times as much as they do at the normal 220 degrees too.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:26 PM   #35
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You'll also want to add a pr of cams & a Header to take advantage of that 23 head.....Cams do make a big difference as well as a quality header......I'd also do a egr delete via a tune......& then you can install a egr delete plate.
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frye2275 View Post
That's right!! Thanks for the info!! Any specific years??
All the Escape 23's.....
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Old 10-26-2019, 03:25 AM   #37
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I've had no issues with like idle. Of course I have done a little tuning to it on my own. VE and BSFC I've got hey running on 91 now!! Runs pretty damn good for a used up engine. First couple weeks couldn't keep traction, wasn't use to the extra power. So now, I have a stage 1 clutch conversion kit, for it, while I want the 2.3, I may be getting into a 68000 mile zx4 engine, at a very great price with a transmission I can sell. Also have a 50mil turbo to throw in when I'm ready, and should have my wide band in a week or 2. Put poly bushings in the dog bone, reinforced the passenger side mount, now I've destroyed the trans mount the other night doing a 5700rpm clutch dump and I do believe broke one of the passenger side mount studs on the head. Oh well, at least I learned what needs to be reinforced before I started racing again! Oh, and yes, of course, regardless of what I've seen read in this form I know cams are very important engine building is still very important!! Other than that having a blast with it!! Can't wait to get my wideband, and since I've become the mechanic again I have a welder on me client list who is going to be cutting the front end off of the car right in head of the strut towers and doing all kage work as well as reinforcing the strut towers that I have demolished! Lol I'll talk to you all soon keep driving my friends!!
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Old 10-26-2019, 10:19 AM   #38
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All that sounds like axle tramp, aka wheel hop.....http://c-f-m.com's Tubular A-arms do make a difference & is what you need.
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Old 10-26-2019, 02:03 PM   #39
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the the pcm still see the fans. I just pulled the main on/off relay and have the switch running off of pin 3& 5. I do believe I broke the passenger side strut jumping the car. Lol But yes, I do get wheel hop, quite badly at times. I would assume those arms are pricey. Are there any other solution's??

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Old 10-26-2019, 09:29 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frye2275 View Post
the the pcm still see the fans. I just pulled the main on/off relay and have the switch running off of pin 3& 5. I do believe I broke the passenger side strut jumping the car. Lol But yes, I do get wheel hop, quite badly at times. I would assume those arms are pricey. Are there any other solution's??
Beating on a vehicle costs cashola......Really sounds like you need a 4x4 truck...I'd say to go w/ a straight axle front end vs independent one.....Can't be a 'stroke....D-max or a ISB, your choice. They all run about the same cost, just they all need different mods for reliable power.
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