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Old 07-18-2019, 07:15 PM  
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There is really no such thing as a plastic specific epoxy. The base material has nothing nearly so much to do with it (usually, not always though) as the actual surface which is better super rough to give the epoxy some bite. Fuel fits in there too, fuel makes epoxy release and even though the intake is considered a dry one the fuel will come back up in it with reversion under certain engine conditions so fuel and at least fuel vapors can affect the epoxy along with engine heat due to the proximity of the intake to motor. The only thing plastic can do is to be much worse to stick to as some are high oily based (ALL plastic is oil based to begin with) and the higher oil content makes the epoxy tend to come loose easily.

You need no rod as long as exterior vacuum leaks are taken care of, the engine will never notice the channels joining the individual runners, that simply becomes plenum area which the engine can use.

If epoxy used it will work MUCH better with reinforcement in it, say the rod, glue it in place and the thinner cross-sections of the epoxy then last forever. It's unreinforced epoxy that comes loose the easiest.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:29 AM  
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thank you all for your input. amc49, thank you for lesson plastic and bonding agents. So Wednesday to doc appt and on the way back stopped at my old to use their temp gun on the intake, since that was really the factor I could find that would make a differance, aside one of them not recomonding use on polyethile and another polyethile something. I drive the thing pretty hard most the time, according to others anyway! LOL And was in a bit of a hurry cause I was running late always, and beat google by about 5mins or more, and intake temp was only, and this is the hottest place I found in between the 2 middle ruunners, 177F! Pretty impressive if you ask me! So with the question weather or not there is plastic specific, and temperature anwserd and that epoxy would mos def be the way to, definitely should putting the rail back in, we pretty much have our answer friends! The riddle is solved!! So ladies and gentlemen, swirl flap delete will be coming soon! With that swirl flap delete, will be see the install of a 180 degree thermostat install, the ford contour one "Modifications done by Frye's Auto of course, with a fan sensor bypass and a new PCV in the near future! Only have to order PCV, online cheaper than part store. Autozone dosent have the one for Focus anyway had have them look up a mazada 3, $25 and some change. Probibly $10 or less on amazon! LOL

Taken the New Skool & doin it Old Skool!! Who says you need a tune to get your fans to kick on?? If you want to get fancy about it, amazon has a stand alone sensor and harness for $30!Don't know about y'all, but I'll save my for the tune, till I really have something to work with! I also got rid of that POS lifetime filter. Put a $8 amazon filter on it. Can't even tell its there unless your really, really lookin! If anyone is intristed in that let me know, I've got pics. And all I paid for was my filter and a 32oz Gatorade.
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:48 AM  
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While your there, swap out the pcv hose......I went w/ dorman.....
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:41 AM  
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Polyethylene plastic = the oily base stuff I was talking about, virtually no epoxy will stick to that. 3M makes something for it at like $90 a small tube I think.

The intake will be made of either FRP or ABS.
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Old 07-20-2019, 04:03 PM  
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Cool!! Thank you so much! Getting ready to di into it now. amc49 your knowledge of plastics/epoxy is exactly the info i was concerned about. Will be doing quite a bit work behind that intake today and really didnt want to jump into being unsure. Will also be moding the thermo housing to except a 180% thermo. Is there anything I should know while working this?? I would imagine it's made of the same stuff, no??
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:18 AM  
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Good advice on the pcv. Im doing the delete to a oil catch can! But now a new issue has arisen!!!! I bougt the thermo recommended, cut the towers off, like a dumb ass, with out looking at the port for it!! LMFAO
Now I'm stuck with no thermo. Trying to figure out how to secure it!! Fricken rookie move!! Any ideas aside from the obvious??
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:51 AM  
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The intake is made from reinforced nylon 6/6. Make sure to find a cement that is compatible.
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:56 AM  
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There is likely a way to recoup the part but cannot say what that might be since I'm not faced with it.
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Old 07-26-2019, 02:19 PM  
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For the cost of a new themostat, you might as well buy another and chalk the price of the old one up to "things I should think about before doing next time".
My list of those is extensive...
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Old 07-27-2019, 12:46 AM  
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LMFAO! Yea, sooo, I eneded up drilling the holes all the way through, got narrow machine screws and nuts, and JB weld through tje holes with the screws, and around the outside, Can't see the mess I made when its all together anyway, found aa new gasket, had to have the part store look up 07 Mzazda. Tonite is the nite I shall see how it all goes!! Would have been done sooner, but I can't deal with 100+ temps to well anymore, and I kept forgetting what a greasy nasty mess I still had to finish cleaning since, from the looks of it no one ever really turned a wrench on it maintenance wise.
Thanks for all the help guys!! Your awesome. I will let you all know how it works out! Leora83, I as well have a long list!! LOL I noticed however, looking online that there are 2 diferant styles of thermostat housings. 1 with the 2 towers, wich is the one I have of course, and the other looks like it accepts, or could, accept a standard thermostat, much easier, $15 on amazon. So thats the next step in the thermostat debacile.
By the way, any of you know how small the picture size has to be on here?? Aparently my camera takes to high a quality photo. Would like to share the escapade with every one, so y'all know what NOT to do, and what worked or works.

Thanks again guys!!

will be looking into getting a 2.3 head and intake, I really need to get on the ball with learning this tuning!!
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