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Old 06-05-2017, 04:12 PM   #11
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Try removing the vacuum line going to the actuator, which is right below the t/b & see if you like the throttle response or not. Say how many miles are on your car?
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Old 06-05-2017, 05:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post

holes that need to be plugged are any that lead to the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold (vacuum leaks).
And the internal ones where the rod goes through.
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tundrafoci View Post
And the internal ones where the rod goes through.
I actually doubt that would be a problem, as long as they don't lead to an external air source.

Yamaha used a cross drilled tube in the head for balancing vacuum between intake ports on 4 cyl. engines for a number of years, most effective at/near idle. A block off tool was needed for tune up work when balancing carbs/throttle bodies to get accurate individual readings.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
Try removing the vacuum line going to the actuator, which is right below the t/b & see if you like the throttle response or not. Say how many miles are on your car?

156k miles on the odometer

Didn't know about removing the vacuum line lol.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:52 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bennylava View Post
156k miles on the odometer

Didn't know about removing the vacuum line lol.
It'd be so much easier to remove & plug the vacuum line going to the actuator to see how you like the throttle response vs removing the i/m.
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:53 AM   #16
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Ok! Sooo, let me get this straight. Regular, old "JB Weld" which is made for metal, is used to fill holes in some sort of plastic???!! It actually bonds?? That doesn't seem any safer than having those pieces of metal and plastic that can break apart and destroy your engine. Wouldn't you want to use a epoxy made for plastic??! I have been, briefly, looking into doing this and can't really find any defanite answer on what type of plastic is used, but I still don't see how a agent made to bond metal will bond to the plastic safely.
Correct me if I'm wrong!! Was looking at the "JB Plastic Bond". ?????
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:50 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by frye2275 View Post
Ok! Sooo, let me get this straight. Regular, old "JB Weld" which is made for metal, is used to fill holes in some sort of plastic???!! It actually bonds?? That doesn't seem any safer than having those pieces of metal and plastic that can break apart and destroy your engine. Wouldn't you want to use a epoxy made for plastic??! I have been, briefly, looking into doing this and can't really find any defanite answer on what type of plastic is used, but I still don't see how a agent made to bond metal will bond to the plastic safely.
Correct me if I'm wrong!! Was looking at the "JB Plastic Bond". ?????
You could remove the flaps only and reinstall the rod and actuator. The rod will rotate, but there will be no flaps. You won't have to epoxy anything this way
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Old 07-17-2019, 06:46 AM   #18
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You could remove the flaps only and reinstall the rod and actuator. The rod will rotate, but there will be no flaps. You won't have to epoxy anything this way
Duh! I didnt think of that! Then, also, if ant of the parts are worn or if I break something too where theres gap I could just fill that. Much less to worry about. Ingestion wise anyways. LOL

But the question still remains! Will proper prep with o.g. jb weld hold under pressure and vibration on plastic??
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:09 AM   #19
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But the question still remains! Will proper prep with o.g. jb weld hold under pressure and vibration on plastic??
No idea. But I think you may be on the right track with a plastic specific epoxy
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:18 AM   #20
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No idea. But I think you may be on the right track with a plastic specific epoxy
This^^^ or just replace the i/m for a new one.....
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