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Old 04-10-2017, 08:58 AM   #11
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You'll for sure want more belt wrap around the alternator & a/c....
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
You'll for sure want more belt wrap around the alternator & a/c....
No a/c.
That's the reason for re-routing. No need for 3 idlers and a tensioner to run the alternator and water pump.
No reason for a very long belt covering the whole front of the engine bay when everything can be mounted in a compact grouping with equivalent or better belt to pulley contact.
I was just hoping if 2 or more of the alternator bolts lined up with an existing (A/C) bracket, I could do this with a simple brace and existing parts.
I'd probably be changing the thickness of the alternator mount and the length of the manual tensioner bracket to make the whole thing work with a standard belt; "hey Mr Parts Guy, what 6-rib belt of about this length do you always have more than 1 of in stock?".

And then I have room to change my oil filter, too.

I could just remote-mount the filter, but then I'm crowding the engine bay more and making it more complex, to avoid re-engineering a belt drive that's designed for equipment I don't have in a car the engine isn't mounted in anymore.

Again...such is the life of the engine swap! :D
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Old 04-10-2017, 09:22 AM   #13
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There are a few of the belts that are double stacked, quite a few of the belts are pretty close in length depending on the tensioner/s...
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felixthecat View Post
There are a few of the belts that are double stacked, quite a few of the belts are pretty close in length depending on the tensioner/s...
...now you've got me confused

What I am hoping to do is place the alternator in the location the a/c would be on the Zetec; using a Duratec alternator.
If two of the bolts line up, and the pulley lands in the right spot, I can just add a spacer (stack of washers or drilled chunk of steel) to position the alternator away from the block to where the case isn't wedged against it.
Then I essentially have a triangular belt run, with the tensioner placed where the power steering was, and the back side of the long part of the belt run acting on the water pump.

That's all I was asking in the original post (although the slight off-topic has been enjoyable too).
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