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Old 03-28-2017, 11:04 AM   #21
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Ok so I got to unplugging things. When I unplug the harness to the door in question (rear right) and for all doors for that matter obviously NOTHING works on that door.
Is this a pretty retarded conclusion or what? ?

However after unplugging and reconnecting the harness the door works fully (to the extent I was used to - obviously doesn't solve the big underlying issue that I explained previously with not being able to central lock with the fob).

So that's something I guess. Although because I have made it work before when I removed the battery that time, I get the feeling this is going to be temporary...

Other testing/observations:

Opened the fob and realised the whole circuit board and buttons are new so definitely no issues there.

Reprogrammed the fob with the standard procedure of key in ignition on/off 4 times etc. and no changes.

On drivers door when I push the lock button from inside all doors lock like they should. When I do the same from the front passenger side all doors lock and immediately unlock. This is the exact same result of trying to central lock with the fob as explained in previous posts.

This is the info I have so far. Hope it gives more clues.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:08 PM   #22
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Anyone have any ideas? ArcticMynx?
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:33 PM   #23
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im trying to replicate your symptoms

--for the cycling of the lock/unlock--
right now im honestly thinking the actuator in the passenger front is having intermittent switch issues (inside the latch assembly there is a sealed microswitch by the motor) im thinking when you use the actuator its not fully going to the lock/unlock position and its partially locking the car realizes its not fully locked/unlock and keeps cycling until the latch confirms its fully locked.. IE the grease has turned into a gluestick on that portion of the latch.. i dont think you have actual controller/car/central locking issues.. but until i can be sure its a hypothesis its hard trying to replicate the issues with newly refurbished locking assemblies..

i do know when i got my 06 SAP it cycled similar to yours but it only did it once when i tried to use the fob to lock it.. it cycled twice and locked and after that its never done it again. (it sat for roughly 1.5 to 2 years and the locks were removed and on the floor of the car so it had locking issues as both front doors were held closed with the seatbelts)
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:25 PM   #24
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I also took off the 3 torx screws on the side of the front passenger door and sprayed some WD through the holes into the lock assembly. Just because i can. But nothing has changed.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:33 PM   #25
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In case it is a lock assembly/module/thing. We're talking ripping off the door card/insulation, removing all the complicated bars/levers/bolts/cables/frames and cleaning it out with contact spray or something then reassemble to test?

And if that doesn't work do it all again but replace with a second hand lock i can find that has been cleaned etc right?

If it does come to this, is it really tricky? could i do it myself or just give it to a car locksmith or mechanic to deal with?
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:05 PM   #26
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X2 post #23................the locking modules really don't fail that much, it is more likely one errant latch messes up the works. Why I say correct any one latch not working right first. Pass front (or rear, the text changes and vague) here. Then go from there.

A lock called for/immediate unlock not called for or not happening when wanted is a latch issue. What they do, interior latch linkage hasn't settled up 100% to the limit switch inside. Two switches in each one and they can fault in various ways to make you think the car has gone crazy.
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Last edited by amc49; 04-04-2017 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 09:20 AM   #27
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Made a quick video of the symptoms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOiskPkqbAE

Last edited by dieseldude; 04-03-2017 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:07 PM   #28
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Anybody got any ideas from the video link in my last post?
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Old 04-04-2017, 08:38 PM   #29
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Not with the way you present the problem, you seem to confuse it the more you talk about it. You say pass rear for a while then jump to pass front at post #24, and driver front mentioned too.

Read this out of post #26 AGAIN, and this time let it sink in good.

'Why I say correct any one latch not working right first.'

The LATCHES are what commonly mess up the overall operation, NOT the fob or the electronics.

Your fob and GEM are working fine as you have the overall commands even including manual coming to the latches, just one or another latch is refusing to work at least part of the time.

BTDT more than once.

You got issue with at least two latches there it seems. I have fixed this problem some 3 times now on mine and the latch was the issue every single time. The problem presented itself though in a number of ways and why people get so lost in it. Luckily it cost me nothing as I can take the latches apart to fix them for no cost other than a bolt to hold them back together.
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Last edited by amc49; 04-04-2017 at 08:47 PM.
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