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Old 08-27-2016, 12:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BrokeLoser View Post
We are talking about the rear calipers....you can't use a c-clamp as they must be screwed in clockwise to collapse.
Fronts took me about 10-15 minutes after I removed the wheel.
Silly me, just finished reading the rest of the thread.

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Old 08-27-2016, 12:47 PM   #12
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You'd be amazed at how many low buck guys came in to buy C-clamp to squeeze those in and when told they have to screw in they insist on buying the C-clamp anyway like a dumb-ss. Without the spin-in tool of course.

Then, 2 hours later back with a broken C-clamp and sometimes caliper too now and wanting refund on the tool of course and the caliper if it was ours because 'it wasn't a quality tool or part'. Like there's a brain there to even tell.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
You'd be amazed at how many low buck guys came in to buy C-clamp to squeeze those in and when told they have to screw in they insist on buying the C-clamp anyway like a dumb-ss. Without the spin-in tool of course.

Then, 2 hours later back with a broken C-clamp and sometimes caliper too now and wanting refund on the tool of course and the caliper if it was ours because 'it wasn't a quality tool or part'. Like there's a brain there to even tell.
Gotta invest in one of those tools then. But why do they screw in? Anyone know the reason behind this design?

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Old 08-27-2016, 06:14 PM   #14
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The reason is very simple actually, the screw is an automatic adjuster for the mechanical parking/emergency brake system.

No E-Brake - No screw.

Simple versions use an adjuster that's not automatic, often a screw/lock nut right at the lever on the back of the caliper which moves the E-Brake mechanism when the cable pulls on it.

All versions I can think of use a screw in the system to apply pressure to the piston for the mechanical E-Brake operation, how it adjusts for piston position as the pads wear is the only variation.

Adjuster screw and operation screw can be separate depending on the design.
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Old 08-27-2016, 07:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
The reason is very simple actually, the screw is an automatic adjuster for the mechanical parking/emergency brake system.

No E-Brake - No screw.

Simple versions use an adjuster that's not automatic, often a screw/lock nut right at the lever on the back of the caliper which moves the E-Brake mechanism when the cable pulls on it.

All versions I can think of use a screw in the system to apply pressure to the piston for the mechanical E-Brake operation, how it adjusts for piston position as the pads wear is the only variation.

Adjuster screw and operation screw can be separate depending on the design.
Thank you Sailor.

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Old 08-28-2016, 07:00 PM   #16
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Yep, because the e-brake needs adjusting to keep it working.
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:18 PM   #17
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Rear caliper piston spins but won’t retract

Recently I did the rear brake pads in my 2015 Ford Explorer. The passenger side was a breeze, spin the piston and it retracted no problem. Went to drivers side and must had made 100 turns and it just wouldn’t retract. What I did was take my old C clamp and applied pressure on the piston as I spun it. It finally caught and retracted. Not sure why this happened but wanted to post in case anyone else has this issue. The c clamp I have is old school and has a ball joint on the tread side which allowed me to compress and spin at same time
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Old 09-22-2018, 10:13 PM   #18
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I haven't seen the internals of one but if the threads simply end with the piston then able to pop out you simply did not have the piston pressed back down enough to re-grab the threads, the c-clamp helped you do that. Basically the part adjusted out until it ran out of thread and loose then.
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Old 03-29-2019, 05:44 PM   #19
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im doing my rear brakes and i pulled them off before i put it into service mode, so i tried putting into service mode with them off and that was a mistake, now the pistons are fully decompressed like holding on to the rotor with no pads, they will decompress with the tool but only slightly, new calipers? or is there a way to decompress the piston
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