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Old 11-02-2014, 09:09 PM   #1
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Angry Crank no start

I have a 2001 ford focus 2.0L SOHC engine. I have had to the engine rebuilt and since have put nearly 5500 miles on it. just recently I have ran into the problem where the car will randomly not start. Just a crank, no start situation. it has happened 4 times and would eventually start, and now after parking it at my apartment it has happened for the 5th time. unlike the first 4 times no it will not start period. I have replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump, and the ignition coil. the starter and alternator are only 3 months old but seeing as that I have a crank no start issue those cannot be the problem. I saw a tip on youtube and tried it. the tip was to unplug the top of the fuel filter, crank the car and see if fuel squirts out. but none did at all. I can tell the engine isn't getting any fuel. I disconnected the battery and allowed it to set to see if it will reset, upon reconnecting it, it would still just crank but wont start. but I hooked up a diagnostic tool and got a code P0193 even though the engine has not been through a drive cycle. I tried a different fuel pressure regulator and still the same thing. im losing my mind over here. help anyone


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Old 11-02-2014, 11:18 PM   #2
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Fuses & resetting or even temporarily bypassing the fuel pump safety cutoff switch would be good first checks for no fuel.
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Old 11-02-2014, 11:57 PM   #3
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I checked all the fuses and changed all the relays. how exactly do I go about bypassing the fuel shut off switch?
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:50 AM   #4
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Try pressing the reset button first.

To bypass you'd need to remove the kick panel for access, then pull the connector & jump it.

AFAIK it's just a double wire connection there that needs continuity, nothing complex.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:16 AM   #5
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so by jumping do you mean to simply use a wire or something and manually connect the positive to the positive or does it matter which terminal I use?
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:01 AM   #6
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Yup, that's the idea.

You can test the cutoff switch with a meter, but since that doesn't PROVE it'll carry a load the bypass jumper is a temp. test to rule out a problem there. (or prove one if it solves the issue)
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:31 AM   #7
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ok I understand now. so if the car will crank once I jump the connectors it should be an indicator that I just needed a new inertia switch. but if it does not crank what does that mean?
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:58 AM   #8
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after jumping the inertia switch the car still wouldn't crank. it is clearly starved for fuel. I hooked up a multimeter to the inertia switch connector. turned the key and it read 00.0 volts across even after switching the prongs to opposite terminals. what next?
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:46 PM   #9
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Bear with me here, it's a bit of a technical explanation. I'm a bit new to the workings of Ford's ECU, but have a ton of experience with Chrysler products.

Check out the crankshaft position sensor. This sounds very similar to an issue I had with my Sebring, where it would randomly not start, or would run for a while and then just stop with no code. In my case, the ECU would suspend spark and fuel pump operation (after the initial burst on power-on) until it saw input from the crankshaft position sensor. This sensor will usually not generate a code if it dies since it simply cycles on and off as small gaps and teeth on the flywheel go past the magnetic end of the sensor, triggering the on/off output of the sensor. The placement of the teeth read by this sensor tell the ECU where the flywheel is in it's 360 degree rotation. If the ECU sees no voltage, it simply assumes the engine is in a position where the sensor would not deliver voltage (a normal part of operation while running). It's worth mentioning, there is also a camshaft position sensor that does the same thing, tells the ECU that the cam is turning and where it is. Either sensor could be the issue.

I believe that you need a scope to test either because you will just get quick "blips" of voltage as a tooth goes past the sensor when the engine is turning over. They can be a bugger to get out though, as the engine likes to corrode around the hole that the plastic sensor fits in to, holding it in place. My Sebring's sensor needed to be drilled out, so it was destroyed in the process.

It sounds like you have the fuel side pretty well covered, but have you tried the fuel filter test you did above with someone cycling the key on and off? Many cars will run the fuel pump only for a second when the key is first turned on, and then not run it more until they see the engine turning. After that, I'd check spark. No spark and a fuel pump that only does the initial power-on burst would tell me the ECU does not see the engine turning.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:46 PM   #10
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You can use a simple voltmeter on these to determine the blips off the crank or cam sensor if they have only two wires to them. Simple magnetic proximity sensors. Hall effect type sensors (3 wire) are a bit harder.

Yes, the fuel pump should be heard for like a 2 second spinup every time key is cycled to on. Sound is under the rear seat cushion. There is a relay and fuse to check if no power to the inertia switch. Make SURE you have checke3d correct relay/fuse, many do not. If sure then you need to start testing for power in the wires to those relay/fuse, the parts being good are worthless without power to them.
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