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Old 10-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #1
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Stalling at idle issue (tired of chasing this)

I have been having this recurring stalling issue during idle for about 6 months now, and i am tired of throwing money at this thing, and need to get the issue solved pronto.

Lets start off with a list of things i have replaced, fixed, or checked.

-New Motorcraft rear PCV hose
-New IAC valve
-New throttle position sensor
-New fuel filter (the external one)
-New Gates Timing belt and pullies
-New water pump
-Cleaned MAF with CRC mass air flow cleaner
-Sprayed starting fluid all around the intake manifold to check for vac leaks
-Got codes checked, and only O2 heater came up because it is removed
-Voltage at battery during idle is 14.0-14.3

My car is a 2000 ZX3 KONA, with 175k miles on it

PCV was replaced about 18 months ago because it was squishy and got a hole in it, no issues for 8 months after repair. Replaced fuel filter at this time just because.

Replaced timing belt after I woke up one day, tried to start it, and it just spun away stripping about 16 teeth off the belt. this was roughly 1 year ago.

6 months ago, car started to have jumpy idle for about a month, then it got worse and started to stall, so i replaced tps, and then IAC shortly after, both to no avail.

One month ago, the issue randomly went away for about two weeks, and came back with a vengeance.

3 days ago, i saw that the MAF could be the problem, so unplugged battery, pulled out, and cleaned MAF, let ECM reset, let the car idle for 10 mins to re-learn idle, and drove around. Ran ok till i started next time then it was back.

Now for the specifics on what it does.
The car idles fine when it is cold, but as soon as the temp comes up to about 33% on the meter, it starts to jump. The idle starts to creep down, then jumps back, then goes lower, and so on till it gets so low that it finally just dies. If i start the car back up, and dont pump the gas, it will immediately die, and will do this until i rev it after startup.

Occasionally when i come up to a stop and put in the clutch, it will just hold at the rpm's i was at for about 5-10 seconds sometimes. While i am cruising, i believe i can hear what i think is the IAC pulsing almost all the time (a pulsing high pitched sucking sound).

Sorry for this huge post, but i read that it is the IAC, TPS, MAF, fuel filter, fuel pump, alternator, PCV hose, and countless other things. I cant afford to keep throwing money at this thing. I need to get this dealt with so i can finally get my girlfriend's damn civic repaired so we can have two cars again.

Here is a youtube video of what it does http://youtu.be/xM99iGsph_8


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Old 10-09-2013, 06:13 AM   #2
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Have you considered the EGR/DPFE to be the culprit?
Try the workaround #2 as described here...
http://www.focushacks.com/mod/DPFE_S...GR_Information
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:20 AM   #3
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I would check the exhaust flow to see if its clogged
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:28 AM   #4
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Egr is blocked, and car has no cat

=(
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:34 AM   #5
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Why are your turn signal indicators both constantly on like that in the video? And is the O2 sensor code for the upstream or downstream sensor? Which sensor do you have removed?

You said the engine runs fine when it is cold, but starts acting up once it warms up a little. So perhaps it's fine in open loop mode but once it hits closed loop, it has problems. Have you tried unplugging a sensor or two to force it into open loop mode all the time? I'd be interested to know if the car will run okay even when warm if it's forced into open loop mode when warm. That will help in narrowing down the diagnosis.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bozok View Post
Why are your turn signal indicators both constantly on like that in the video? And is the O2 sensor code for the upstream or downstream sensor? Which sensor do you have removed?

You said the engine runs fine when it is cold, but starts acting up once it warms up a little. So perhaps it's fine in open loop mode but once it hits closed loop, it has problems. Have you tried unplugging a sensor or two to force it into open loop mode all the time? I'd be interested to know if the car will run okay even when warm if it's forced into open loop mode when warm. That will help in narrowing down the diagnosis.
I will definitely check that. The rear sensor is unplugged.

I'm guessing the reason the car stays running when cold is because the engine idles around 1k to warm up the car, but drops to 750 rpm after that.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:12 AM   #7
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Also, turn signals are on because there is no grill in the car at the moment. A car hit a bicyclist and launched him into my car causing a bunch if damage. Got a new grille from Tousley but have to replace the fender headlight and hood before I replace the grille or it will break when I slam the hood.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gun_runner View Post
While i am cruising, i believe i can hear what i think is the IAC pulsing almost all the time (a pulsing high pitched sucking sound).
did you splurge for a new Ford IAC? I hate to ask you to revisit a PITA job, but alot of folks on the forum have complained about their 3rd party IAC's being worse than the original failed part, and others have seen idle problems because of IAC gasket issues.

I haven't encountered any detailed IAC troubleshooting tips on the forum, but it wouldn't cost you anything to disconnect the electrical connector and see what effect that has on your idle.
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_beautious_ZX3 View Post
did you splurge for a new Ford IAC? I hate to ask you to revisit a PITA job, but alot of folks on the forum have complained about their 3rd party IAC's being worse than the original failed part, and others have seen idle problems because of IAC gasket issues.

I haven't encountered any detailed IAC troubleshooting tips on the forum, but it wouldn't cost you anything to disconnect the electrical connector and see what effect that has on your idle.
I just bought the O'reilly special. Didn't want to spend a ton of money to not have it be the problem.

Do these cars have an adjustable base idle? Or is it all controlled by the IAC? What should it do if I unplug IAC?
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:53 PM   #10
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there is an idle screw on the TB, but I've never touched that on a non-carburetor engine. I imagine it sets a baseline idle, from which the IAC allows deviation.

I've never seen a convincing, detailed description of an IAC here, and most folks treat it as a "black box" that either works or doesn't. Your video showed oscillating RPM's, so I suggested unplugging the IAC's electrical connector as a quick, free test. The IAC is probably a stepper motor (which are difficult to monitor and troubleshoot), so if you were able to disconnect it at the peak of its cycle (looked like ~900 RPM in your video), then the idle would probably freeze at that RPM -- assuming the IAC is at fault. (It will freeze at whatever RPM you diconnect it; I just recommended the peak RPM so that you don't freeze it at a low stall speed.)

...not sure how you'd safely do that while the engine is running & hot.
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