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Old 08-28-2013, 11:38 PM   #11
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Hello,

I did not see your posts until now. I did the old fashioned replaced lock cylinder but it didn't do a bit of good. I figured it must be what the lock cylinder goes into. And your post/message/experience sort of confirms this. I'm just trying to sell this car but can't be selling cars when you can't even start them correctly. Your post makes it easy by providing the part number and how to replace it. Thanks. I will report my findings. Also: the issue is: I put the key in, turn it to START, then push the key in more, then forward more, then and only then does it start.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
When you find a car that has zero problems, let me/us know.


... and get your facts straight about what a 'recall' is --> http://www.nhtsa.gov/Vehicle+Safety/Recalls+&+Defects
First off I didn't say "zero" problems. Let's be realistic here. I bought a 2004 F150 and drove it to 120k miles before selling only having to tighten bolts under the steering column every so often. My only problem with that truck. I've owned this car for 20k miles (98k miles on the clock) and have already had to make numerous repairs. If it works for you, that's fine, but I have an issue when a car company that has been around for 100 years isn't able to put an ignition switch in their car that lasts.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:44 AM   #13
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Good luck - Before you do the complete disassembly or buy the part, verify it is not the starter switch that is bad. Is is located on the left side of the steering column directly opposite of the key tumbler.

Remove the steering column cover, pop out the starter switch and leave the wires attached. Turn the key to the run position. Insert a flat head screw driver into the starter switch and turn it all the way (like using a key). If it starts as I suspect it will then it is the collar I described in the post that needs to be changed.

For tempory use you can easily drive the car, just don't reassemble the column cover and use the screw driver and key to start the car. For me the repair was not that difficult but the diagnosis took me 5 days and just a lot of luck when the locksmith mentioned a repair shop that had the same issue the week before that put me on the right track.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:52 AM   #14
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Yep, that was it. I didn't bother testing the starter switch. The part cost $155 after tax. It was non-refundable but I was certain that was it. There are plenty of mechanical objects in there to wear out. It took a little over an hour working in the dark holding a flashlight. After putting the key in, it started right up... Only thing I could suggest is it would help to have a 1/4" drive with a swivel joint to get to the screw behind the steering wheel on the part being replaced. Also the bolt with the head missing may be better off being replaced with a bolt with a head on it to make sure you can get it tight all the way (just a normal bolt the correct size). I did not do this. I grinded little marks in the head to make it not so smooth. Also the bottom plastic cover is easier to remove/replace if you turn the steering wheel so it's upside down and you can slide it forward. It's like a little puzzle.

Otherwise it was a pretty straightforward job.


Thanks for your help!!!!! I do appreciate it!
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:10 AM   #15
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I love it when a plan comes together. The headless bolt is supposed to be an anti theft device. I do not know if it would be a standard type thread or not. Now you can keep the car.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:00 AM   #16
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push in to start problem

Morning, eventually that won't work either. The problem is not in the key and lock tumblers but in the housing that it fits into (part # 9L8Z-3511-A) for a ford escape or a mercury mariner. I think the ford focus is the same number but double check with parts for compatability. Mine is at the point where even pushing in hard when turning key is only working intermittently. It is possible if you purchased a push button start for the dash. About 29 dollars, you still have to turn your coded key to the run position and then push the button it may bypass the worn mechanism I am waiting on a response from the seller if this will work. There is a solution on this website for installation without wheel removal for this part. Hope this helps
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:04 PM   #17
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The Cure for pushing in key to start

Went on line after a ton of research and for 29 dollars, I bought a start button for my 2008 mercury mariner premier. Installed above the key on the access panel above the key. Now I turn the key to the on position push the button and it starts right up. Shore beats changing the whole ignition housing. My wife is very happy. Gives it a custom look and works like a charm. Hope this helps. three wires to solder, one ground to attach and make a hole for the push button and a few tywraps to pretty it up.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:16 AM   #18
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Start button....................Holy 1958 Batman! What goes around comes around.....................
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:23 PM   #19
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TinIgot thanks will be trying this in nieces 08. Rep giving
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autolite View Post
TinIgot thanks will be trying this in nieces 08. Rep giving
Glad to help....I knew I would be seeing many more of these ignition issues here as these cars age. Let us know how things work out when done.
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