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Old 05-05-2015, 03:50 PM   #31
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Just tried the self diagnostic test,cc light blinked once after I hit the set button so cc should work now? Went for a test drive, when I hit the on button cc light didn't come on but when I hit the set/accl button the cc light came on. I hit set button at 50 mph but it did not hold that speed, tried the set/accl to see if it would accelerate but nothing hit res button and coast button but no response from either one. Don't know if I did anything wrong butthis is the first time the cc light came on at all
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:28 AM   #32
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Light only comes on when a speed is set & the unit is working, unfortunately this system does NOT have a light for "on" as you see with some others.

Off when turned off, no change when turned on, lights when "set" & goes out again for coasting, even though still on & resume will work.

Check the cable?
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:44 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Light only comes on when a speed is set & the unit is working, unfortunately this system does NOT have a light for "on" as you see with some others.

Off when turned off, no change when turned on, lights when "set" & goes out again for coasting, even though still on & resume will work.

Check the cable?
thanks for the info can you send me a picture of the location of unit and cable please? I have no idea where to look or how to check the cable. are there any videos on the forum or online showing what to do? thanks again in advance for your help.
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Old 05-06-2015, 10:53 PM   #34
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No picture handy, check this thread for a pic of your engine compartment:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/g...ocus-have.html

In that one you can see the two throttle cables draping across the engine to the throttle body at the back (air intake) right at the center.

The small one on the right leads to the cruise module, the larger on the left is for your foot pedal.

Cable operated throttle, either by your foot or the cruise module until '08 on these cars. In '08 the "drive by wire" electronic throttle was introduced & everything changed.
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:37 PM   #35
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I tried it several times. I do not get any flashing. Is there a fuse or something controlling power?
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:48 PM   #36
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Wish this worked for '12 model...
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:21 PM   #37
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2000 SE wagon automatic CC still not working

Have read all the posts and still not found the problem, have done the following:
1. Check lite flash during test - had 4 flashes which states VSS signal problem. (never heard or felt any motors or noises during test. Speedo, horn & turns work, lite comes on when set pushed(so switches appear to work).
2. 3rd brake lite had 3 of 5 bulbs burnt out, all brake lites work and does not stay on when pedal up (dont think switch is the problem).
3. Performed cable check and is not broken only moves about 1/8 inch
With speedo working dont think VSS is the problem!
Does anyone have the flow chart for further diag?
Anyone have the wiring diagram for the CC?
Can the actuator/module be checked with a DVOM or just pull it apart to check for gear or motor problem?
But if actuator the problem why 4 flashes?
This is all electronic so no use of vacuum!
Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:46 PM   #38
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I've read of cases when it didn't work with third brake light bulbs out, did you fix that yet?

VSS code might be lack of signal to the cruise unit, check/clean connector for luck first.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:32 PM   #39
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Thank You 6SPD_Soul for the diagnostic test. I had a bad brake cutoff switch. I was able to buy the part from the Ford dealer for $26 and replace it myself.
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:44 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
I just had some issues with my CC and have sorted that out, but I found there is a really slick self diagnostic procedure for the cruise control. You don't need a diagnostic scanner to do this either, just the car. From what you describe I think the cruise control servo (motor with a spool of cable that controls the throttle body for CC) is bad, but this test will tell you for sure where the problem lies. This self diagnostic test will work on all Foci from 00-05, in addition to many other Ford models in those years.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

So I guess try to run the test. It's pretty quick and easy once your thumbs get the button sequence down. Then you should at least have a better idea where the problem is coming from. Post back here with results, I'm curious where the problem is for you. Mine was the brake deactivation switch which I'm putting in soon.
This post is really helpful--thanks! After running the diagnostic I figured it was the brake deactivation switch (which is green btw). But it's still showing three flashes when I run the test, and of course no cc. Frustrating. I wonder if I'm a.) misreading 2 as 3 flashes (the flashes start up pretty soon after hitting set but I may be misinterpreting). Or, if the circuits are messed up. Has anyone figured out how to fix/replace damaged circuits?
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