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Old 10-31-2016, 07:25 PM   #41
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I did this fix over the weekend, pretty simple. Got the parts for under 200, you can get them cheaper if you look around more. You can order the security bolt too and the housing. Saved myself about 400 bucks. The dealer was asking for like 660

Took me a lil under an hour to do.


Some notes for anyone who wants to do this:

Most bolts on this job are 7/16ths small little screws pretty much hold the housing to the blinker assembly. You do not need to take the steering wheel off or anything like they told me at the dealer.

To cut get the old security bolt off, First I sprayed some penetrating fluid to help make it easier. Then I got a dremel with a death wheel and cut a notch in the bolt. Use a flat head screwdriver or a chisel and give it a decent tap to get it started, after a tap or two the collar should be able to come off the column.

When putting your old lock tumbler into the new housing it may not fit. What you need to do is use a small punch and push a plastic pin in the housing while also turning the lock with a screwdriver to get it into the correct position to accept your tumbler. It may take a little bit of force. Wish I took pics. I had the issue where my lock tumbler would not line up correctly until I moved the part inside the housing first.

You may need to wiggle the new housing on the shaft, itll pop into place and then you can hand tighten the security bolt to kind of hold it there. Then put the other 3 bolts on to attach the blinker assembly.



Overall the job isn't tough, it needed to be done for my 2008 Focus. I was getting scared I would end up stranded somewhere with that bad housing.

Now the car turns on first try. Thank for all the info in this thread!! Wouldn't have been able to do it without this info.
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Old 12-28-2016, 01:14 PM   #42
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I am having the same problem but I am having a hard time finding the right part. The mechanic called it the "ignition housing" and now a locksmith says I need a new steering column. I don't have $400 laying around, I want to order the part myself and have someone replace it. Your solution sounds like exactly what I need. When I go to fordparts.com and type in the part number, nothing comes up. Got a picture or a link? My car is manual transmission BTW.

Last edited by blabla19; 12-28-2016 at 02:41 PM. Reason: want a picture of the actual part
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:57 PM   #43
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Just wanted to post and say I'm having the exact same issues with my 2008 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape twin). I tried just doing the ignition switch a year and a half ago and it helped for about a year. Tried replacing it a week ago and it didn't help at all this time. I think Ford put a poorly-engineered design on this housing assembly. Does the assembly come with a new ignition actuator pin? I feel like the pin is no longer reaching the ignition switch, thus why you have to really push the key in while you turn it to get the ignition to start.

I plan on replacing the assembly soon, hopefully that will resolve the issue.

BTW, I used to be on this forum when I worked for [email protected] a while back, as SteedaBrandon.
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:16 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nis350ztt View Post
Just wanted to post and say I'm having the exact same issues with my 2008 Mercury Mariner (Ford Escape twin). I tried just doing the ignition switch a year and a half ago and it helped for about a year. Tried replacing it a week ago and it didn't help at all this time. I think Ford put a poorly-engineered design on this housing assembly. Does the assembly come with a new ignition actuator pin? I feel like the pin is no longer reaching the ignition switch, thus why you have to really push the key in while you turn it to get the ignition to start.

I plan on replacing the assembly soon, hopefully that will resolve the issue.

BTW, I used to be on this forum when I worked for [email protected] a while back, as SteedaBrandon.
I replaced the assembly shortly after this last post. It completely fixed the problem! The car starts as new now. No pushing the key in and trying to start it multiple times, it feels great!
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Old 02-24-2017, 03:17 PM   #45
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Great! Nice to hear it did the trick, not surprised the problem went beyond the Focus line.

And yup - remember ya as 'SteedaBrandon'
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:52 AM   #46
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i have 2010 focus sel tried replacing key cyl 65.00 no good replaced ignitin switch 67.00 no good hope i can say this i called ford they wanted 260.00 i found Group1autoparts on line 139.00 ordered on sunday had it wed took a whole 30 min and did by myself.things we take for granit like using a key in your car instead of a screw driver
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Old 05-25-2017, 02:55 PM   #47
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So my 2008 Escape pulled this trick last night. Actually it did it yesterday afternoon too, but then started after a minute or so, and I didn't think anything more about it. So last night, I called AAA, and the guy tested the battery, the starter, and then finally got the car to start by doing some little trick with the key fob...some sequence of presses. Then the car started. Turned it off, and it wouldn't start again. He checked a few things, and they did the key fob thing again...and it started. He said it was some kind of reset of the ignition security system.

I drove it to the dealer, and left the key in the overnight drop, with a note. I did turn it off when I got there, but decided to move it to a better spot, and it would not start after. Sat for about 15 min waiting for a ride, and then it started. Once I turned it off, it would not start again. They just called me and stated that the entire ignition cylinder housing had to be replace, and that it would be $750. I told them to go ahead. I don't have the means to fix it, or to get my car home, and I am driving a borrowed car that I need to return tomorrow, so I really don't have any other option. But, the fact that , so I am stuck.

The key fob thing kind of got me though...do you think that was just a coincidence?
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Old 06-09-2017, 01:24 PM   #48
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Angry 2008 Ford Focus won't start

My daughter has replaced the starter, Battery, relay and ignition switch and her car still doesn't start at times. It seems to be worse when it's hot out. No one can figure out why it's doing this. Very frustrating and unsafe.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlewis71570 View Post
My daughter has replaced the starter, Battery, relay and ignition switch and her car still doesn't start at times. It seems to be worse when it's hot out. No one can figure out why it's doing this. Very frustrating and unsafe.
Have you read the first posts of this thread to see if your symptoms match?

Do you have a no-crank or no-start condition?

No-crank with similar symptoms to the original info. given here means the fix detailed in this thread is likely to solve your problem.

Diagnosis isn't always easy, replacing parts without a solid one just gets frustrating. Hopefully this info. will help with that diagnosis & repair.

If the car IS cranking consistently and you still have a no-start intermittent, plz. post more detail in your own thread for suggestions on diagnosis/repair of the no-start.
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Old 06-09-2017, 02:19 PM   #50
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Usually when this starts to happen you can push the key into the cylinder while turning to start and it will crank. If this happens it is a sure sign the problem is the lock module 9L8Z-3511-A Lock Module - Automatic Transmission TSB 09-19-15 states concern is with 2008 to 2010 focus escape and mariners built before 8/3/2009

You state "worse when hot out " that could indicate a different cause. If it fails to crank just turning key but does crank when pushing in and turning then lock module is most likely cause.
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